MG ZR: Cams & Maps

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MG ZR: Cams & Maps
bahaha I have admittedly been looking at turbo conversions recently. But the 1.8k series turbo block, keeps the light front end and is apparently a bit more refined than the heavy ass t series. But then if I was going to do a turbo conversion it seems a shame to do it to a vvc would rather get a mk2 1.4 shell and drop in the engine conversion then
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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f*ck the turbo kseries, just go T series, also that shed on ebay will make a great donor car, pull the running gear and recycle the rest. after all its only another tarted up r200 Tongue
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Haha well as of right now I can't afford anything. forgot about my credit card bill until recently which made me somewhat well off too in the sh**ter lol
Been over to rovertech.net, one of the more active seeming forums and one guy thinks the HCU unit could be incorrectly timed meaning I won't be getting full vvc and another saying to check cambelt timing.
Also having a debate about which oil to use Magnatec or Shell Helix. Both 10w-40 but haven't much good about Magntaec online?
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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Castrol magnatec 10w-40 is what i am running on mine. and it seems fine, also run the HDI on it too.
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I got 5l of shell for £18 so will be going with that, since it's cheaper than magnatec's 4l tubs

Just been doing some obd readings thanks to midnightclub for the torque app. Having a thought that maybe the map sensor is misreading a little due to dusty spark plugs and dipping in power when pulling off.
Online people think the values should look like
1 Bar for ignition , mine reads 0.95
0.35-0.38 Bar for idle, mine reads 0.37-0.399

Not sure how much difference it makes having the values slightly off like that. While driving though the readings jump all over the place, from like 0.2 Bar to 0.95. Not sure how it should look though since never read much map sensor readings

In regards to timing I've joined up on rovertech (some of them were at Forge action day) forum and they seem to think the timing could be off too as it's very common thing to be done, and a few of them have even offered to check it for me. Very nice of them Smile
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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i haven't been on rover tech for a good while, tbh I thought the pug forums are better, but that's the best one for rover stuff, they are T series mad like! like you lot with the DTurbo and HDi lumps.
lets hope your sorted out soon, but I still say its the shell that's causing the problem.
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Nothing much happening, university is starting to get my attention and being £600 into my overdraft is somewhat making me think twice about spending.

Having a read up on free/cheap mods since I cant afford a janspeed manifold at the moment I've been reading that the standard system is normally restrictive due to the crappy internal welds and that deburring can help regain some top end. Anyone have any deburring equipment? lol

what are peoples thoughts on nos? I know it's as chavy sounding a performance upgrade you can get but thinking of ways to hold onto n/a power without having to replace vvc system. A 25 shot apparently should be fine for short term use?


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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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just a hand held file would do the trick or a dremble ( spelling)
as for nos, I haven't really saw many threads, if any about nos to the k series engines.
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Fair enough, not looking forward to trying to get the manifold nuts off though they look pretty rusty

Couple of threads about nos, would only be a on the track kind of deal.
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=297048
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=272374
http://www.themgzr.co.uk/vb/19-members-c...tures.html
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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NOS works well on pretty much anything mate. Make sure you get a wet kit, off the shelf and fit and set it up at home - it's easy.

25hp should be a pretty nice increase, I'd say go for a 50hp shot... but it is a daily.

Remember, it's 25 (give or take) hp everywhere - even at 1000rpm, so it will give a real boost!

JP
JP
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Christ! That exhaust mani looks awful on the inside
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25 is what I would go for, wouldn't want to push it and melt anything. is it just a case of wiring up a on/off switch and drilling a hole into the manifold? I didn't read much at 3am and I've only just gotten up now #student
Although a constant power gain across the board does sound nice, why don't more people go the nos route?

It really does, what's the Peugeot ones like? or is it just a rover thing
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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Don't think a stock 6 exhaust mani is anything like that on the inside thats for sure!

NOS is good, for a quick boost like a trackday/drag strip.. but it's expensive to use..
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(11-11-2013, 12:53 PM)Midnightclub Wrote: Don't think a stock 6 exhaust mani is anything like that on the inside thats for sure!

NOS is good, for a quick boost like a trackday/drag strip.. but it's expensive to use..

Stock 6 exhaust manifold is actually a very good piece of kit.
NOS it just to be different!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Why don't more people use it? Simple. It's expensive to refill and gets addictive. Personally, it'll be the next thing on my list after mine is mapped on the cams... Just for a quick hit when needed Wink
JP
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Because it's got a horrific reputation for blowtorching pistons, valves, rings etc...

[Image: drag-radial-mustang-nitrous-piston-burned.jpg]

Done well it's fine, but if it slightly goes wrong, it can be a proper disaster.

And it's got a terrible chav reputation, but now because it's got such a bad reputation, it's kinda cool again.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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So chav, it's coooooool!

Smile like it.

All you need are two buttons on your steering wheel and you can play fast and the furious!

JP
JP
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And it's a well known fact that the whole world goes blurry and your laptop shows this:

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(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Haha! well if it's easier than an engine swap and allows me to keep vvc then going to have to start looking into it
Problem is I keep finding myself staring at the mk2's on ebay , I know the build quality on them is even worse but..such a more modern looking car for very little money
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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steve, just weigh it in, and get a gti 6 Tongue
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Surely getting nos ιs just masking a problem! Get ιt right then nos ιt!! Who knows what the nos will do if the tinning ιs out on the vvc side of things
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(13-11-2013, 06:38 PM)Jonny b Wrote: Surely getting nos ιs just masking a problem! Get ιt right then nos ιt!! Who knows what the nos will do if the tinning ιs out on the vvc side of things

Bang on, why you worrying about nos and future mods when its not even running right yet?
Doesnt even own a 306.
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Oh I wouldn't nos it until it's running right Im just thinking of future mods after its sorted.
Like instead of sorting the vvc should I do a 1.8t or 2.0t conversion but I want to stay n/a so it's either more aggressive exhaust and vvc cams or solid cams or nos

Procta I should have but the 306 has been done, rover for life now! Big Grin
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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If you can afford the fuel, turbo all the way.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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if you want to say n/a, why not just go throttle boddies with the aftermarket ecu.
you will need to solid cam the engine and go from there,
if I had one of these, god knows why I would Tongue id be temped to T series it.
as you can push those engines, plus it helps to shift its heavy arse.
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throttle body route is hella expensive and with the inlet at the rear of the engine I don't know how well it'll work
Really want to keep vvc if possible, there's a place in kent or something that can regrind the vvc cams to be more aggressive so thinking that's an option
T series is still a option but if I was going to I'd buy a 1.4 mk2 then t series that, with some 160 brakes slapped on since doing it to a vvc model seems a waste like xud'in a gti6 Itwasntme
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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Steve just do a conversion or go home, otherwise you'll be wasting money on small tweaks lol

Or buy a 6
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the smokey old bus that sounds like a tractor...
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(16-11-2013, 11:27 AM)devils_fuel Wrote: Steve just do a conversion or go home, otherwise you'll be wasting money on small tweaks lol

Or buy a 6

I'm not buying a 6' , just like the look of the ZR much more than the 306 now.

Well I might stick with the n/a for a while then when I want to go turbo conversion I could get a mk2 1.4 to convert. Right now though it's all just piss in the wind as I'm £600 into my overdraft and have to spend £120 on car tax that I realised the other day ran out a month ago... oops
Thank god I didn't buy the janspeed system the other week for £300 or I'd be royally in trouble
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ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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this is a big ass thread. you maybe chasing a goose. The dyno may of been slightly out and its most likely lost a few horses due to the age of the car/thread. I would sell it and go a for a quicker car Smile

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(16-11-2013, 03:43 PM)Jimmyboycheck Wrote: this is a big ass thread. you maybe chasing a goose. The dyno may of been slightly out and its most likely lost a few horses due to the age of the car/thread. I would sell it and go a for a quicker car Smile

jim I have been telling him for ages, the shell is at fault,
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