cv boot changing

[no2lurch]

Noticed today that the drivers side cv boot is leaking grease. only a pin hole but its making a real mess.

I cleaned it all up and the boot itself and noticed the pin hole is where its creased while standing for a while. I've put some silicone on it temporarily but how do i change it?

do i have to take the driveshaft out of the gearbox? would it be a good time to chnage the droplink too?

thanks in advance

[Eeyore]

yeh i need to change mine too so appreciated

[ConorTRG]

Get a universal/stretchy boot and buy a cone for putting it on.

[no2lurch]

anyone had any experience in the type that come sin halves and are glued together?

[Frosty]

Cv boots are great fun. First of all make sure you got some gloves!! Usually the 1s that I fit at work are stretchy 1s that go over the cv joint but you might be able to get hard rubber 1s but the cv joint would need to be tapped off the end of the drive shaft.

The cv boot can be changed on the car but I would say if you want less stress take the drive shaft out.

To be totally honest with you if you haven't done 1 before take the drive shaft out and take it to a garage for them to put a boot on for you. They shouldn't charge much for that

[zx_volcane]

Knock hub nut off

Seperate bottom ball joint and driveshaft can now come out of hub

You now have access to outter cv boot

Try not to pull driveshaft out of gearbox or you'll drop it's oil

Cut old one off with Stanley knife

Clean out old grease

Now either knock cv off shaft and fit new boot packing with new grease

Or use stretchy one + cone and lube and man power

Then stick it all back together

[no2lurch]

thanks for the advice... few more questions... found a kit on ebay that has the cone, but whats needed to seperate cv joint from drive shaft - any special tools/force needed, and if you need a bit of force, how do i stop the drive shaft coming out of the gearbox?

[zx_volcane]

Copper mallet

Hold shaft, tap cv joint till it comes off.

I find it easier to use stretch kit ones as they seem more durable, but seperate cv anyway, as using the cone with driveshaft still on the car is a right farce.

[no2lurch]

I've never deprecated a Cv joint before... anything to be aware of like things inside collapsing etc. What size is the hub nut?

[martyn92]

Hub nut can be a few sizes and yes the end of the driveshaft can sort of fall to pieces but once you seperate it you will understand

[Frosty]

The hub nuts are only ever 35mm as long as its the original! Just some people use a 6 sided 36mm socket just cuz not many people have a 35mm socket

[no2lurch]

Is it best to start to loosen the hub nut with weight of car on the ground? The hub nut isn't a reverse thread is it? And finally, when taking the end of the shaft out of the hub, is there a risk of busting the bearing?

[no2lurch]

Anyone confirm the last questions please?

[Connor]

No its a normal thread. And to the post up there^^ sometimes they're 32mm, as when you buy a wheel bearing, they come with a new nut

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Oh and unless the bearing is f*cked, it'll be fine getting it out

[no2lurch]

I'm a little confused thinking back to other cars I've owned. On them, if the hub nut is done up too tight, its prevented the wheel turning freely

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Can someone please explain how the drive shaft is connected to the wheel assembly part in relation to the bearing etc?

[Connor]

Those cars you've mentioned, would most probably have been tapered bearings. On the 306, the hub (the flange with hole in for the wheel bolts) is pressed into the centre of the bearing, which itself is pressed into the hub carrier. Through the centre of the hub is a hole with splines, which the end of the driveshaft slots through with corresponding splines and onto the end of the driveshaft goes the hub nut, which iirc is supposed to be torqued to 325nm (or there about) which is fecking tight

[no2lurch]

When undoing the hub nut, is it easier with car on ground?

[zx_volcane]

torque specs for front hub nut is 320NM, so pretty sodding tight

drive shaft connects how you'd expect - splined end goes through hub which has bearing pressed into it, and nut done up other side

[darrenjlobb]

When undoing the hub nut, is it easier with car on ground?

To do hubnut just stick screwdriver in the disc and let it bind against the brake caliper. Abuse me all you like, but Ive been doing it like that for years until I had rattle gun, makes life much easier.

Id recommend the stretch on boots, but that said its no big deal if you have to split the shaft, have never used glue together ones...but sounds like a farce to men, given the level of oil / grease!

[no2lurch]

So pads, caliper and assembly don't need to come off? Undo ball joint pinch bolt and that'll give enough movement to get hub I'd the shaft?

[darrenjlobb]

So pads, caliper and assembly don't need to come off? Undo ball joint pinch bolt and that'll give enough movement to get hub I'd the shaft?

Correct

and dont forget to catch the tranny oil, if you just catch what comes out the shaft hole, you wont have to put much back in, vs draining it from bolt at bottom, in which case it will ALL have to go back in, which is just a time waster really!

[no2lurch]

I don't plan on letting any oil out! Possible?

[Connor]

Possible, yes as long as you're careful. Well depends on what side you're doing. I can't remember if you've said in previous posts, but the n/s is where you'll need to be careful

[no2lurch]

I got to do drivers side. How long will it take, all being well?

[Connor]

Then you won't have to worry about the driveshaft popping out. Hard to say, just take your time with it, no need to rush yourself

[no2lurch]

Is the shaft harder to remove then on drivers side?

[darrenjlobb]

Drivers side shaft is a little more complicated to remove, but only 2 bolts..but if your not planning on loosing any tranny oil, then dont remove the shaft...

[no2lurch]

cant get the hub nut off anyway! lol

[Sam Cow]

|Hub nut? Get yourself a 35mm (check with calipers) socket with 3/4" drive and sliding bar 3/4" driver and it will be a breeze. For some reason, the lack of give using 3/4 stuff makes a world of difference. Something I'd never be without now. Alternatively, you'd need a hell of a rattle gun (see previous posts) and you need to control doing up the nut on reassembly. Changing cv gaiters? Last time I did one, "tapping" the cv joint off the shaft took 45 minutes and I've done a few in my time. The you have the hassle of clearing out all the old grease because if grease has got out, dirt has probably got in. Sod's Law. Putting the joint back on the shaft took about the same time. I vowed in future simply to get new shafts for about 75 quid from people like Euro Car Parts.

[306Puggy]

You don't really need to clean it out, just stick some new grease in.