[How to] Manufacturing an upper BAR 306

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[How to] Manufacturing an upper BAR 306
#1
Here's a little diagram to make a homemade BAR top.
Measurements expressed in Millimeters:

[Image: schmaplatinedebar306.jpg][Image: mabaromp.jpg]

I hope it can help you...
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#2
Nice slippers
[Image: A1A3B2B1-9269-463A-9F21-2ABF4CE9BEAC-165...A3B3F7.jpg]
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#3
Chuuuut, should tell anyone for my slippers, loool.
I said on the picture it'isnt a bar homemade it's an OMP,this is an example of
shape and size.
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#4
[Image: DSCN0970.jpg]
Perv 106 1.4 xs First Pug Love - Scrapped
Perv 306 1.6 5 Door Hore - Sold
110bhp 207 Hdi Sport - Used as a Brake
173bhp T25 Ph1 Diablo Dturbo - Scrapped
Thirsty Bitch Volvo 850 Estate - Sold
51bhp Berlingo Nad DT Van - Sold
Slow as f*ck Dispatch Work Horse

www.prestige-auto-care.co.uk
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#5
That this is what I was talking about, so pretty it deserves a little polishing, it would be cool,no ?
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#6
Looks good. How are you bending the tubing?
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#7
Nice work, altho id have prefered to keep it straighter, id have thought with the laws of physics that bend in the middle would be likely to bend fairly easily allowing srtuts to move, I know uve tied it to the body there, but cant see that making much odds...

That said really nice job!
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[Image: sigi-2.png]
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#8
That's one of Ripp's, is it not?
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#9
The physical design of your BAR seems perfect, I must acknowledge.
The work of the crate config Racing prefer a straight line a curve,
physical strength per inch (cm2) is more important.
I think some 306 GroupA Rallye competiton in France have this same kind of BAR.

Here are some examples of mounting BAR 306 and ZX

[Image: 11179595.jpg][Image: 41582509.jpg][Image: 34291525.jpg][Image: 29620326.jpg][Image: citroenzx16vkitcarf2000.jpg]
[Image: citroenzx16vkitcarf2000.jpg][Image: 125937img1173.jpg][Image: 2088e.jpg][Image: 2087a.jpg][Image: 161xb.jpg][Image: 2089j.jpg]
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#10
straight bar makes perfect sense where possible and if this was possible it would have been done. Major problem factors that contributed to the route are the bonnet prop you would not believe how much of a pain in the arse that is to the whole design where the bar actually meets to the curve on the strut is where the prop is attached to the bonnet. you can see in the pictures the bar has been squashed to get this into place. otherwise the bonnet just sits on it, as it stands there is around 1-2mm gap and even then that was'nt with out modifying the bonnet prop holder on the bonnet.

Manifold and boost pipes made this rather tricky too. my rear engine mount is solid if this brace was on a rubber mounted car you can gurantee it would hit on something. The only logical sense would be to put straight pieces into and tie them to the chassis.

With major companys like omp sometimes they just produce a product to fill a market iv seen some pretty pointless and expensive pieces of metal flung on cars in places that arent even designed structual. The other problem they face is offering a bolt on product. Not allot of people are willing to weld or drill into fire walls like i am prepared to and so companys just make to fit without modification.

Rippthrough likes where possible to offer this too but only if its actually going to work. This is a factor as to why its taking him longer to produce an upper brace there must be around 3/4 prototypes knocking around and all have there problems. He is trying to develop a product that works rather than fills a market. And even then theres allot of varietys in the 306 range. As it stands he has a brace for mine above and his 1.4. but those are only working due to slight modifications and how many people are willing to do them?



[Image: DSCN0969.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0968.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0967.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0966.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0965.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0964.jpg]
Perv 106 1.4 xs First Pug Love - Scrapped
Perv 306 1.6 5 Door Hore - Sold
110bhp 207 Hdi Sport - Used as a Brake
173bhp T25 Ph1 Diablo Dturbo - Scrapped
Thirsty Bitch Volvo 850 Estate - Sold
51bhp Berlingo Nad DT Van - Sold
Slow as f*ck Dispatch Work Horse

www.prestige-auto-care.co.uk
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#11
As Jenks says, there's no way to go straight across without multiple bends, that's literally the only option that was available, which was to triangulate the whole lot to the bulkhead, Jenks brace actually clamps down there to form two triangular structures rather than just a bar floating in mid air with a couple of bends in it.
And yes, the ph1 bonnet stay makes the job a bitch.

In fact, the only one that can have a nice straight brace, is mine, I just haven't got around to it yet, so it's got one of the mockup ones for the gti6's on there.
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#12
Hi guys,well Hello from France with a dirty wet weather,believe me ! lol
It's difficult to design a practical element,that is why several sketches better than theoretical
val many unnecessary testing.

" How many people are willing to do them? "
- Me when I have the materials and equipment as you I guess !

I have not yet welder but many sketches and metallic materials and tools, but it's winter and I
have no garage so I wait until gentiement the most beautiful days and I am still recovering.

I'll adapt the rocker ZX 5 doors for the 306 with an extension of 5-6cm long and lasting-cement
to windscreen
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#13
Solution in order to make the space under the hood, between the motor and the reinforcements of the cover (under the hood).

In French : bosselage de capot,bossage capot ou bombage capot.

- Cutting the original cover Phase 1 and glue or rivets to secure a "bump hood."
Once you cut the hood can remove reinforcements has wishes, a way to give the shape you wish to your hood.
You can trim the body, weld, and use filler fiber and resin to mold your items in composites, fibers or carbon.

- Some examples :

[Image: 7025068627.jpg][Image: 7408414248.jpg][Image: lotnk.jpg][Image: chat2g.jpg][Image: 292857221323.jpg][Image: 2503912034.jpg][Image: 7408414248.jpg][Image: 3qpvel.jpg][Image: 78567.jpg][Image: img0673.jpg][Image: img0674ez.jpg][Image: img0675gx.jpg][Image: img0676xo.jpg][Image: img0677ml.jpg][Image: photo35g.jpg][Image: kitcarrosseriebossageca.jpg][Image: kitcarrosseriebossageca.jpg][Image: kitcarrosseriebossageca.jpg][Image: img0678ru.jpg]
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#14
** Example platinum mounting BAR anti rapprochement 306 :
Constraint adjustment with threaded flange nut and cons.
The tube is threaded with a footprint wrench -> thread M22x1.5 :

[Image: infosplatinesbar306race.png]
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#15
(03-02-2013, 06:25 PM)Jenkosowls Wrote: [Image: DSCN0970.jpg]

Could you not add a bar straight across above the inlet, i know it wouldnt be as good as straight between the struts but would stop the bent taking all the sideways pressure.
[Image: sig002_zpscb892e18.jpg]
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#16
an issue i have been told of with similar strut braces to above is the strut will still pivot around where the two bolts attach to the brace itself.
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off

[Image: attachment.php?aid=5522]


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#17
Errr ben the strut is supposed to pivot otherwise you will pretty soon find your self in a brick wall!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#18
Interesting read, also in the process of making my own one of these, but its a little less 'technical' than this :p will post pics once complete..
[Image: 22f2b6b2-758b-4c1c-96fb-6fa9c6059b13_zpsf306b56b.jpg]
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#19
(07-02-2013, 02:25 PM)PE02KHG Wrote: Could you not add a bar straight across above the inlet, i know it wouldnt be as good as straight between the struts but would stop the bent taking all the sideways pressure.

The bend isn't taking sideways pressure as such -it's bolted to the bulkhead.

You can't go straight over the inlet without a) Having a bend to clear it floating in mid air instead, which is worse, or b) putting speed dents in the bonnet.
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#20
With Solidworks for calcs !! ...
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