Clonking, front end turning right...

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Clonking, front end turning right...
#1
Place your bets, what do you reckon this will be?

A knock, which occurs when turning right (not full lock). .....knock knock.......knock knock.......knock knock......

Etc, which is consistent with the road speed.

I know it's impossible to diagnose without getting it on a ramp I'm just curious to hear what people may have experienced themselves and what the solution was. I'm thinking drop-link but will get it on a ramp asap...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#2
Tre or droplink
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#3
I'd guess at droplink if was full lock I would have said cv joint
Dragoon Blue Estate in a bit of a State
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#4
wallet hitting the floor paying someone to repair it
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#5
(28-01-2013, 10:37 AM)cully Wrote: wallet hitting the floor paying someone to repair it

Or his belt buckle
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#6
Snapped spring?
#2 Moonstone Blue HDI
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#7
Ah yea, could be a bollox'd spring.

Good excuse to hit it with the lowering stick then eh?

Actually hoping for a broken spring now! What are the best springs to get the front end of an HDi down (standard shocks?) I've used 40mm in the past but it tends not to do anything much...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#8
Well depends what your going for.
You have a baby so pushchair and stuff so you want something practical so get a decent set of 40mm. If it has the right weighted springs should be ok.
But if you have 15" then 60mm should look good.
#2 Moonstone Blue HDI
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#9
Possibly balljoint.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#10
Possibly as silly as me.

Lowered the car, left top mounts out
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#11
How do you lower a car and leave the top mounts out?!
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2000 Moonstone 1.8 Meridian - Sold
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#12
This^^ Huh


Drop link, or CV joint but that's usually only under load.
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#13
Managed to 'borrow' a garage this Sunday which has a 2-post lift, thank fook! Will have a good prod around. Fairly sure it's going to be drop link though as it's eerily familiar...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#14
something on the right!
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#15
My money is on the top mount bearing!
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#16
(28-01-2013, 09:58 PM)Ollie Wrote: My money is on the top mount bearing!

Never had to replace one of these. Pressume you need to remove the shock entirely?

Here's hoping it's the drop link lol
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#17
(29-01-2013, 11:12 AM)C.A.R. Wrote:
(28-01-2013, 09:58 PM)Ollie Wrote: My money is on the top mount bearing!

Never had to replace one of these. Pressume you need to remove the shock entirely?

Here's hoping it's the drop link lol

Yeah and you need spring clamps but its really not that bad a job at all!
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#18
Can't imagine knocking being the top mount bearing... Should be pretty obvious if it's up top or at the bottom too...
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#19
Getting worse now.

I suspect it really is the drop link on the drivers' side, is it worth buying them in advance? Can't hurt changing them anyway.

Back in't day the Lemforder jobbies were the bees knees, is that still the case? I don't want adjustables, just replacements...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#20
(29-01-2013, 01:55 PM)C.A.R. Wrote: Getting worse now.

I suspect it really is the drop link on the drivers' side, is it worth buying them in advance? Can't hurt changing them anyway.

Back in't day the Lemforder jobbies were the bees knees, is that still the case? I don't want adjustables, just replacements...

ahh droplinks are droplinks pretty much as long as you don't buy uber cheep shit, i always get plastic ones at about 20 quid for the pair . . Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#21
Aye thought as much.

There are some on ECP but they appear to be £24 each! F*ck that.
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#22
I got metal ones from my factors for £14 a side
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#23
Try gsf think there bout £12 mate
Dragoon Blue Estate in a bit of a State
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#24
Potential problem...

Knocking has gotten much worse, but I have noticed this evening that it will only knock in-gear. If I coast in a car park I get no knocking.

Panic. It's a driveshaft isn't it?

Should I continue driving the car or is it likely to shit itself?

If my suspicions are correct then how easy is a driveshaft change and at what cost?
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#25
driveshaft isn't hard, well the hard bit is undoing the hub nut, just pull old shaft out push new/secondhand shaft in, obviously you will have to replace gearbox oil as well . . . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#26
£47 for a new one.

Is it dangerous to drive like this? I can get a lift to work if necessary.
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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#27
No it's not really dangerous if you get it done soon enough and don't drive like a knob.
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#28
Yeah I finished mine off by accelerating fast and then breaking very hard.
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#29
Just remember to remove the hubnut before anything else!
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#30
I understand the hubnut is a bitch of a job. I'm sure we'll have the tools (father in law is ex-mechanic) but worried about undoing it on axle stands. People say to leave a wheel on but I have cyclones - no centre hole...
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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