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ginge191 Wrote:Thought this seemed relevant copied from this thread: <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3028" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3028</a><!-- l -->
1. Lucas fuel feed banjo, already connected to fuel line on car, Bosch banjo is on the pump
Just remove banjo and put pipe onto the bosch fuel inlet just next to that in the photo
2. Fuel run off line, connects to where?
Connect it to 13 in the other photo (return to tank) you may need a longer bit of leakoff pipe though...
3. Throttle cable arm, which of the two small holes should the cable connect to?
Connect to the one the bolt isnt in, and id slide the whole plastic thing in on the slot on the throttle arm towards the pump all the way.
4. Boost compensator, connects to T-piece on FMIC setup (and presumably the line my boost gauge plumbs into?
Correct
5. Throttle cable guide
Correct, when pump is at idle position, set clip so cable is just tight, but not taking any strain
6.
Fuel out from filter (heading for pump inlet banjo on left side of pump underneath throttle arm)
7. Some kind of vacuum line, goes where?
This is your vacume pump, connect it to the brake master cylinder
8.
This is an air bleed line for the coolant system, there should be a pipe kicking about somewhere in that area with a bleed hole in it that connects to there... same pipe goes to fitting behind pump on the head and also top of the rad / expansion tank
9. Another vacuum line, again goes where?
Normally vac feed for EGR etc...just bung it with a screw.
10. One way breather valve, goes to where on FMIC cars?
Oil breather, either connect back into the air intake (pre turbo) or to a catch tank etc
11.
LDA breather / vent, nothing connects here, just so pressure can equalize under the diaphram
12.
Pump fuel return feed, returns fuel to tank via the other fuel line.
13.
As already said, connects to injector leak off pipes.
14. Stop solenoid? Needs ignition live and earth connected to plug at lower part of pump?
Only needs ignition live, its just a single wire on top the solenoid, god knows why pug routed two cables... The solenoid earths itself to the pump / engine
Credits to cwspellowe for pictures and MrLobb for the write up
edited so you can read and see what there is!
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off
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11-07-2012, 06:13 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-07-2012, 06:26 PM by Bananalad.)
"Hot idle adjustment - Left hand side screw, slacken the 10mm locknut and wind the screw in (clockwise) to increase the idle speed and out (anti-clockwise) to lower the idle speed. Once correct speed is achieved re-tighten locknut."
Its the left hand screw looking from the front of the car yeah?
And can i adjust it when the car is running or is that not recommended? Thanks!
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(11-07-2012, 06:13 PM)Bananalad Wrote: "Hot idle adjustment - Left hand side screw, slacken the 10mm locknut and wind the screw in (clockwise) to increase the idle speed and out (anti-clockwise) to lower the idle speed. Once correct speed is achieved re-tighten locknut."
Its the left hand screw looking from the front of the car yeah?
And can i adjust it when the car is running or is that not recommended? Thanks!
yeh, from the front; i;ve always adjusted whilst running, never had an issue. Will re-adjust when the mornings get colder, sometimes on CHILLY early mornings i get a bit of hunting where the idle is slightly low, but meh...
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Good man ginge thank you
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am i right in thinking a standard bosch pump is a 9mm head ?
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(17-10-2012, 06:30 PM)bayley Wrote: am i right in thinking a standard bosch pump is a 9mm head ? yes mate
Venetian XUD ph2 heaven
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(17-10-2012, 07:14 PM)karl1989 Wrote: (17-10-2012, 06:30 PM)bayley Wrote: am i right in thinking a standard bosch pump is a 9mm head ? yes mate
lol,still learning mate!i saw on ea their is another fuel pump used on these but cant think what it was called...not the 11mm,sumthing 70 ?
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(17-10-2012, 07:56 PM)bayley Wrote: (17-10-2012, 07:14 PM)karl1989 Wrote: (17-10-2012, 06:30 PM)bayley Wrote: am i right in thinking a standard bosch pump is a 9mm head ? yes mate
lol,still learning mate!i saw on ea their is another fuel pump used on these but cant think what it was called...not the 11mm,sumthing 70 ?
think thats for the HDI not 100%sure
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R70 pump, yeah thats a HDi upgrade.
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that's the one,lol.why...a hdi upgrade,is that cus of the ecu ?
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(17-10-2012, 08:47 PM)bayley Wrote: that's the one,lol.why...a hdi upgrade,is that cus of the ecu ?
you need to start another thread dude . . . . .
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a couple of questions 1 when you remove the top cover is the cold start spring hard to relocate back on/off as i use my cold start when running veg oil so dont want to leave it disconnected
2 i need to change the throttle arm bush/seal as its leaking i see from a guide you press the bush in the lid but is there not a o ring or something you have to change? as i wouldnt think a bush would stop the fuel coming out?
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does anyone know if you screw the fuel screw in or out? been told to screw it in but wasnt sure so i left it lol? any help appreciated
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In/clockwise to increase fuel.
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Thanks for this! Modded my first pump with this today
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Quick question:
The Lower/Side Solenoid, which I think is a Timing Advance, for cold starting.... Mine isn't connected to anything!... I know I don't need it, but What could I use it for, what exactly does it do?
I like the idea of having a switch on the dash, to Force High idle (ei: more current from Alternator), could I use this side solenoid for that?
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(09-01-2013, 04:25 PM)JamesPT Wrote: Quick question:
The Lower/Side Solenoid, which I think is a Timing Advance, for cold starting.... Mine isn't connected to anything!... I know I don't need it, but What could I use it for, what exactly does it do?
I like the idea of having a switch on the dash, to Force High idle (ei: more current from Alternator), could I use this side solenoid for that?
if you wired a little motor up to it i guess you could . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(18-12-2011, 11:20 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: vincent1 Wrote:great guide a question though in the third pic mine has the ufo damper missing is it needed? what purpose does it serve if fitted? if stops the revs dropping off so quickly if you let off the gas, hence stopping jerky engine braking . . . .it's not essential just makes for a smoother drive . . . So on other words if the bolt is longer towards the damper the rpm would get more smoother then a shorter bolt towards the damper then the rpm would drop faster when off the trottle?
Would this also have affect on starting the engine if the bolt is shorter towards the damper?
I have reading in the haynes 306 manual about shimming the damper...
Pardon Uk language norway here
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it's just a dampener dude, no more no less . .
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haha ok dude not that important then
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(07-04-2013, 09:13 AM)306__xrdt Wrote: haha ok dude not that important then
probs makes your engine mounts last a bit longer . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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