Replacing lower engine mount in situ

[Niall]

Quite simple. Don't do it!


But if you insist...
Tools:
16mm spanner
16mm socket
Flat head screw driver
Array of chisels
BFO hammer
Patience

Mounts
Power flex. About £25 delivered. Good strength, easy to fit and doesn't increase cabin vibration. Good all round mount
Baker bm. Don't know how much they are on there own. Need pressing. Rock solid mount for a positive gear change and acceleration but does increase cabin vibration vastly. Some won't mind this!
Standard mount. £10-20. Errr no cabin vibration and will feel slightly fresher than your f*cked mount but unless you go original Peugeot, it won't last long.

Ok jack the car up high placing th stands under the sills on the emergency jacking points. Make sure it's supported securely as you will be moving the engine about a fair bit above you. I did have my car rocking on the stands at one point with a bit of over enthusiastic hammering (although I do think my hammer was actually too big for the job!)

Get under the car and find your lower engine mount (oh and it's not really a mount. It's just a torque stabiliser). Remove the bolt running through the centre with a 16mm socket. Careful when pulling the bolt out as the engine could drop back by a few inches. Ideally you want to use your jack to support the sump to stop it rocking back.



Next, you want to remove the fork that holds the mount from the sub frame. Once again it's just a 16mm through the rear of it. Once unbolted, it's a bit of a bastard to wiggle out but can be done with a bit of moving the engine about.



Next you have two options. You can take a hacksaw and saw from the inside of the mount outwards (careful not to saw into the aluminium casting). Once it's cut, use a screw driver to bend it inwards and use a hammer and a drift (I found a old head bolt worked well as a drift) to smash it out.

Alternatatively if you don't have a small hack saw, you can do what I did and f*ck it right up!
In the ally casting, there is a recess where the mount should protrude slightly by 1-2mm at about 3 o'clock on the mount. Using a screw driver or drift, hammer at the mount here until it starts to cave in. Now using a combination of chiseling and drifting, try and do this all the way through.


(yes it's a state but oh we'll!)
This took me a long time as the only hammers I had were a toffe hammer, a rubber mallet and a BFO ruff neck which was far to big for the job.
Eventually you will knock a fair bit of the mount in and you should then be able to drift it out. Once it's lost it's bite, it should come out with ease. Might have to move the engine forwards otherwise the subframe could be in the way.

Give the casting a good clean up inside and go and grab your new mount.
If your using a powerflex, it's as simple as using the supplied copper slip on the outside of the two parts of the mount and pushing them in with your hands.
If your using a standard or baker mount, these need pressing. Luckily there not that difficult and you can make your own press from a length of threaded bar, two metal plates and some nuts.

Once in, refitting is a reversal of removal.

I also found removing the mount for the PAS hose from the sump and cable tieing it to the drive shaft helped give room for swinging the BFO hammer.



Now take for a drive and enjoy your epicly easy and smooth gear change and less hesitation in accelerating.

[JamesG]

ironic i started doing this today yours seems to go alot smoother than mine has luckily a friend is going to press it in at a garage FOC but i'm using a standard mount never thought of a polybush one maybe next time if there is a next time

[Niall]

Believe me it didn't go smoothly. I snapped the heads off two hammerable screw drivers and my chisel was too big. In the end I ended up smacking the f*ck out of it with a head bolt and massive hammer.

[JamesG]

Believe me it didn't go smoothly. I snapped the heads off two hammerable screw drivers and my chisel was too big. In the end I ended up smacking the f*ck out of it with a head bolt and massive hammer.

pretty sure the set-up is simular to the hdi where the driveshaft is part of the unit well i decided to take the driveshaft off and take the complete setup off and get it pressed in proffesionally then again i am abit OCD when it comes to car work!

But good guide pal!

[Niall]

Yeah all XU engined 306s are the same and I think the TUs might be as well. Just saves getting the shaft out and refilling the box.

[JamesG]

Yeah i suppose i had a few spare bottle of gearbox oil so just thought i'd do it the long way!

[spike2002]

You can also use a standard mount and rotate it 90 so the hollow parts of the mount are top and bottom as this will give the engine less movement.
I would also recomend washers either side of the powerflex mount as it helps to stop them from failing.

[samass]

im doing mine tomorrow, i have a slightly different approach. fire.

[CJ_Derv]

I would also recomend washers either side of the powerflex mount as it helps to stop them from failing.

^^^^ this defo or it will kill the mount if you ring powerflex they will send them out foc as i destroyed mine that didnt come with them

[CJ_Derv]

this is what can happen when fitted without washers, having said that i did launch in 2nd rather quickly but stil.....

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-3100.html

[Jake]

Fire is the way to do this!

[CJ_Derv]

Fire is the way to do this!

HAHAHA ARSONIST!!!

does work well to remove bushes wouldnt recommend doing it on a petrol incase of any leaks though lol and would recommend setting fire to it off the car LOL

[Niall]

Did consider the blow torch but you still have to get the metal ring out and there's lots of other things under there that could cat h fire very easily. Off the car fine but I wouldn't do it under there!

Will be fitting some washers tonight I think!

[Slam Wagon]

Thank f**k for the Black and decker scorpion electric hacksaw, if i had tried using the blunt blade it would have taken me quarter of the time, finally the old is out though, cheers for the guide.

[jay5488]

Just done mine in situ... Replaced with polybush and the 2 big washers, it's such a nice drive now (I've done a top mount mod too) however I will say, with hindsight, it's an absolute bitch of a job to do in situ thankfully I'll not have to do it again.......

Thanks for the guide

Jamie

[Tom]

Also a bakerbm solid one can be pressed in with a vice and a scaffold bar. Hammer and patience recommended but not compulsary.