Dum-Dum's XLT Ranger 4x4

[Dum-Dum]

Had a couple of minor issues, swapped to a primer bulb and Audi TT filter, sadly the primer bulb leaks as it has a pin prick hole but f*ck me did it make a difference to the performance.

So much of a difference that I blew a boost hose off, that was a pain in the arse finding it as it wasn't fully off but I could hear the noise under load and feel the lack of performance.


Anyway the Ranger has been being useful at picking up my new washing machine and running stuff up to the scrap yard.
   
   





Swapped the headlight plugs for some brand new ones as a common fault on these is the plugs corroding giving dim headlights.
   





And fitted some new JVC speakers as the originals sounded terrible and popped and crackled at anything past volume 20 (you'd need volume 30 to drown out the road/wind noise at 70mph)
   

[Matt-Rallye]

Nice to see you are keeping it tidy and uptogether Now go get it muddy

[Dum-Dum]

Nice to see you are keeping it tidy and uptogether Now go get it muddy

I missed out on muddyness the other week due to being so ill I couldn't drive.

I will get it muddy at some point but I still need to investigate why my front hubs aren't engaging with the 4x4 system. I think it's probably a gearbox sensor but it's too cold for lying on the tarmac outside.

No doubt I'll only sort this out when it actually starts snowing and I'm forced to do so.

[cully]

or could it of had the shafts removed to improve fuel economy maybe?
like they do on some of the range-rover stuff

[Matt-Rallye]

or could it of had the shafts removed to improve fuel economy maybe?
like they do on some of the range-rover stuff

On range rover stuff you just drop a propshaft off Only time you need to remove shafts is when you have mangled the diff and need to drive it home in diff lock

[Dum-Dum]

or could it of had the shafts removed to improve fuel economy maybe?
like they do on some of the range-rover stuff

Nah all the shafts are all there.
It's almost certainly an electrical issue as there is supposed to be 12v at one solenoid with the freewheels unlocked and 12v at the other solenoid with them locked.
I have a continuous 12v at just one of the solenoids irregardless of what mode the box is in or pressing the RFW switch.

It's just half a day upside down with the multimeter working out where it's not sensing that it needs to lock the hubs. I can test it mechanically by just running a vac line to either side of the actuator and watching it move.

or could it of had the shafts removed to improve fuel economy maybe?
like they do on some of the range-rover stuff

On range rover stuff you just drop a propshaft off Only time you need to remove shafts is when you have mangled the diff and need to drive it home in diff lock

You can do that on this, 8 bolts to drop the front prop

[Dum-Dum]

Actually got round to getting under this today as an impending trip home has forced my hand. Can't find any obvious electrical fault with the system, no loose wires or bad fuses etc and although the solenoids don't switch they do both work and there is vac at the outlet of both when they are fired up. Gonna check the actual axle stuff works next weekend then wire up my own system for it when it's dry.

Repaired my exhaust with my favorite bodge, a giant jubilee clip. The exhausts on these are really heavy and always seem to break there so the clip will hold it for a year or 2.
   





Also got round to fitting my de-cat pipe that I purchased on the day I bought the truck. The extra 1-2mpg should make a reasonable difference on my trip home. Also it has unleashed a fair bit of low down power, these always feel like they are massively held back but having the de cat on has freed it up a bit and given enough power that at the same throttle as before it is now happily power sliding round corners so I've had to ease off a little. It hasn't added much power really but there is definitely some improvement.
   

[Danny Wideboy]

Like button pushed.

[Dum-Dum]

Been having terrible trouble with the washers generally being shit, decided after cleaning them out I'd re-hose them with some nice yellow silicone I had knocking about.
   





Been up to Scotland, at a steady 75mph on the way up I got 22mpg
Only took a couple of days to get a massive puddle in the bed.
   





Now I've started fitting a LED light bar to the front. Going to cut the grille to fit around it, hopefully cover the mounts too.
   

[Eeyore]

Good to see its still alive! ;D

[Dum-Dum]

Good to see its still alive! ;D

Yeah just about. On the way back from Scotland last week I had a bit of a should I / shouldn't I moment as I had to drive through flood water deeper than what killed the Rallye.

[Dum-Dum]

Done some more on the light bar, cut the grille to fit the bar, sadly I couldn't keep it in one piece and it looks shit but I can't see how I could do it better (other than cutting straighter).
   





I've largely got it wired in via a fused relay. Just need to mount a switch and run the last wire from that to the relay. Going for an on-off-on switch.
   





I did run a little bit of wire from the relay to the battery to check the relay was all working nicely and sadly it's so bright it makes my camera go shit but even in the daylight you can see the light on the houses 50m+ away.
   

[procta]

dum dum, why not get a bull bar and put the lights on there? Mind what you have done is a neat too, some of the landy lads have done the same with the puma and TD5. ( they have an extra small grill under the main grill)