Rallye Tidy Up (Yes yet another one)

[MCH]

Well add another to the list of project Rallye's....
For those of you who didn't see my recent thread about buying a Rallye here is is ---> http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=34851
I'm not going to kid myself into thinking I'm going to create a showroom stunner however I hope I will do the car well enough for it to last well into the future... Thankfully mine doesn't appear to be anywhere near as rusty as some seem to be from what I see in other threads...
 
Now one thing I must say is how the hell do all of you guys doing build threads find time to do everything and take plenty of photos as you go?

I’m quite lucky that I have had the use of a ramp at my dad’s work to enable me to carry out a lot of this work... (the oldest ramp that rarely gets used)
 
 
First port of call was to gather materials, heres some:
 
 

 
 
I didn’t photo all of it but it was various Bilt Hamber products inc the Hydrate 80, deox gel, I did use the electrolyte zinc by bilt hamber in the more prone areas but at the price it is (£19) I resorted to cheaper zinc spray for the less prone areas... clear bilt hamber waxoil... also various implements of weaponry to attack the car
 
So we removed the cat back exhaust, the heatsheilds, wheels, arch liners beam, and various bits and bobs in addition such as the spare wheel carrier and various brackets...

 
2 of the exhaust studs broke so they were ground flat and new studs spot welded on then appropriately doused in zinc spray..
 
tbc

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following on

We attacked everything remotely rusty with an air drill with a sanding attachment using 3M Rocloc sanding disks (they’re very good)... and underseal/seamsealer/stonechip that was damaged was inspected with a scraper to see if it had lifted allowing moisture in and if it had we ground it back until the metal and underseal were good gave 2 coats of the hydrate 80, a dusting of zinc and then either blew over with red or has been left to revisit with a black smooth stonechip of some sort (which I’m yet to source)
 
Anyway a few pics (again I don’t know how the rest of you either A remember to take them and B find the time)
 
Heatsheilds (1 of them was past it in my eyes as had rotted through so I sourced a set bar the backbox shield)I cleaned them all up with a wire brush, degreased and then ground anything rusty back to good metal VERY time consuming!!!  Didn’t photo them all...







Also silly little brackets like this:


and cleaned


it was zinc'd then refitted and since dusted with red...

[MCH]

I think the front drivers jacking point was the worst area...

Poor pic taken without a ramp etc...




I think the photo makes it look worse than it is...



Started cleaning up nicely just a little pitting, I carried on and chased it right back to good metal all the way round

and after various layers of bilt hamber hydrate 80, electrolyte zinc, then a good healthy dusting of red, was still wet in this picture and I'm yet to do the front arch to tie in, it'll then be coated with waxoil.

[Eeyore]

Eugh another one. Itll be time for me to start soon. Not looking forward to it and with only a gravel drive way it'll be a struggle. Thanks for sharing the products you used.

[reese]

Nice work!

How do you find using the Bilt Hamber products? I think I'm going to buy some to remove the muck from the underside and arches of my GTi6.

[MCH]

To be honest I'm liking the Bilt hamber stuff and it gets a lot of good feedback but the deox gel doesn't seem to work quite as effectively as I expected however I am still experimenting with it on various brackets... Some say the Deox C is better which I understand to be a granular type that you dilute with water to different ratios to suit...

The one thing I was delighted with was managing to get the bump stop cap bolts out without snapping one as apparently this area is very bad for corroding



and cleaned

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Nice work!

How do you find using the Bilt Hamber products? I think I'm going to buy some to remove the muck from the underside and arches of my GTi6.

So far so good, the deox gel as stated does work and you can see the results when using it but I'm not sure if the Deox C works better from reading up on various forums it seems the more popular option...

I've got a few bits and bobs of brackets that I'm going to use as trial runs to see what result I get such as the securing bracket for the spare wheel carrier, I'll put on some before and after pictures when I do that...

boot floor before








and after

[Ben]

Good idea sorting the rust first thing! Looks like your doing a good job of it.

[MCH]

I'm trying my best to sort the rust that I can get at without having to cut stuff off to access "possible" rust...
 
I will be fitting the new bump stop caps when they arrive (ordered from pug) and refit the bump stops (will suitably soak in zinc then bilt hamber waxoil)
That’s going to be largely it until the new year...

Plan for the future is
Rebuild  rear beam (likely a spare and then swap)
I have some good condition shocks/springs/hubs that I’ve had for ages that I will tidy up as best I can with all new top mounts and bearings...

The front subframe on the Rallye seems to be going quite rusty so I have a powdercoated one that I will build up with refurbished Peugeot wishbones with new mounts...

The engine bay will be all cleaned up and I will try to remove everything from the chassis legs to clean up and paint/protect...

I have a new PAS cooling pipe on order from Pug so I’ll change that too
 
 

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Oh and I also re-trimmed a gearknob with the help from a colleague at work

[Frosty]

Looks like some great work going on here. Pretty much the same thing i will be doing to the gti6 i just bought. I will keeping an eye on this thread.

How much was the power steering cooling pipe?

[Matt-Rallye]

Wish mine was that good underneath

Fantastic to see everyone taking the time too preserve them for the future now

[MCH]

Looks like some great work going on here. Pretty much the same thing i will be doing to the gti6 i just bought. I will keeping an eye on this thread.

How much was the power steering cooling pipe?

From memory just under £60 list price

[MCH]

Just as some have shown interest in the products used... an update on feedback after using them some more...

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73830-bilt-h...n-wax.aspx

and

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-73832-bilt-h...n-wax.aspx

Are very good products, if you do get either of these make sure you get the long flexible lance!!!! as it aids application massively!
The nozzle has a multi-spray end so it just kinda flings it off in all directions which is great for when you're poking it into hard to reach areas!!!

The "Black" is a tad on the thin side so if the surface isn't already black it doesn't cover too well with just the one coat, I suppose this could be good or bad dependant on your application and whether you want the surface visible still to a certain extent...

and some pics of the rear arches cleaned up just for good measure





Oh and yeah yeah I know I didn't remove the beam mounts... but the plan in the new year is to rebuild and refit a beam so I'll replace them and if needed clean and prep then paint (if not needed I'll just use the bilt wax) also removing the tank...

[Eeyore]

Jealous! Wish my underside looked like that.

[MCH]

Well my parts order with peugeot was a disappointment!!!

Brake pipes were sold to me as pre-bent steel lines (I specifically asked) but arrived as cut lengths of copper with just ends fitted...
For the prices its cheaper to buy a roll and make up my own!

The PAS cooler has changed material by the looks of it and is quite flimsy...

Only stuff I'm please with is the rear disc guards and bump stop caps...

[Ben_w]

Matey,

look like my parts man has come through with at least some of the power steering pipe clips/clamps etc.

need to check part numbers on service box when I get bac to my hotel later but there will be enough for what I need and some spares.

I'll keep you posted.