manifold studs

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manifold studs
#1
Anybody know where I can get new studs and nuts for the exhaust and Inlet manifold? Currently using bolts but that's not ideal with high boost levels as you cant tighten bolts up enough without damaging the aluminium head.

Also, anyone know what torque to tighten said studs up to? Want to do everything properly now so I don't have to chase boost leaks around later
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#2
Inlet manifold should be fine with bolts, that's how the petrol ones are secured even on the boosted cars
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#3
Studs are a better design as you can tighten them up solid into the head without the risk of stripping the threads and having to re-tap the head, with studs in place you can then properly torque your manifolds down onto them with nuts rather than trying to overtighten the bolts into the head
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#4
Yeh, when you do this, run an M8 tap down the head too, you'll find you can get an extra 6mm or so of thread out of it, means you can screw your studs in real deep, get them extra tight.
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#5
(27-05-2013, 08:35 PM)Dave Wrote: Yeh, when you do this, run an M8 tap down the head too, you'll find you can get an extra 6mm or so of thread out of it, means you can screw your studs in real deep, get them extra tight.

Yeah that's a good idea Dave Smile
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#6
(27-05-2013, 08:19 PM)swampy Wrote: Inlet manifold should be fine with bolts, that's how the petrol ones are secured even on the boosted cars

When you're running 30+lbs of boost, you need the bolts in darned tight, the manifold also tends to "slide" back off the cylinder head as you do it up, causing it to strain the threads as the engine is slanted... I guarantee there's no XU10 running 30lbs of boost... If it was standard 14psi of boost, then they're fine!

I've done it myself where you're tightening them in and it's stiff so you end up knackering the threads.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#7
do you know what the torque setting is meant to be for manifold studs ruan? or is it just a case of "until their tight"?

hopefully found somewhere to get replacements from, just need to take in an example to make sure the threads match
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#8
Notgoingtofallout lb.ft
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#9
(28-05-2013, 07:21 PM)Ruan Wrote: Notgoingtofallout lb.ft

hahaha, thought as much
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#10
Did you get anywhere with this mate? I want some studs now i hate those shit allen bolts
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#11
Yeah I took some out of a spare head
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#12
(27-05-2013, 08:35 PM)Dave Wrote: Yeh, when you do this, run an M8 tap down the head too, you'll find you can get an extra 6mm or so of thread out of it, means you can screw your studs in real deep, get them extra tight.

I don't understand Dave.
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#13
basically so you can put your studs a little deeper into the head, so you can tighten more with less risk of stripping from the ally head.
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#14
So your saying extend the thread with the tap so the stud can get in deeper? The studs should lock still once they reach as far in as they go right?
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