Just thought i'd add this guide here on the audio big 3 and why it's essential to do.
The Big 3 as i do it is to ADD to existing wiring. some people REPLACE existing wiring but as electricity goes along path of less resistance i feel adding to it means more paths.
The Ideal cable for this is available from halfords and marked as battery cable.
1x 76cm(30") Red length for battery to alternator (part number = 165324-0) £5.69
2x 45cm(18") Black Length for engine to chassis / battery to chassis (part number = 165266-0) £4.99
Basically what your doing is making the charging system more efficient which will improve sound quality and hopefully stop lights dimming as much and not kill as many battery's or alternators.
First using the long red length bolt one end onto alternator output lug and other end to +ve on battery. what this does is give a direct link to battery from alternator. as standard the alternator goes to other engine components before getting to battery but this is not the most important out of the big 3 (all will be revealed)
After you done it it should look like this
Next is Battery to chassis. for this you have to do some prep. Take out one of the topmount bolts (i used the front one on both my ground points) and using a flat head screwdriver scrap paint of JUST around the hole to give some bare metal to obtain the best ground (paint doesn't conduct very well). Connect one end of one of the black lengths to battery and the other thread the bolt through and tighten it back up to topmount.
After you done it it should look like this
Last but definitely not least is the most important connection engine to chassis ground. As the alternator is bolted to engine and thats the cars generator by doing this makes it easier on the alternator to work. On this one do the same prep on the topmount bolt area AND on the engine just by the timing side engine mount should be an 11mm bolt. undo this and with flat head screwdriver scrape it till you get shiny metal underneath it for the ground wire again. Now with the last Black length thread the 11mm bolt through it and tighten it back down to mount and the other end thread the topmount bolt through it and tighten that back down.
After you've done it it should look like this
After you've done that revel in the fact you have now done the big 3 your charging system is now more efficient and your whole I.C.E system will sound alot better.
As stated before will not stop headlights dimming completely or battery's / alternators dying but if like me you have Headunit as a pre-amp with a couple of amps and sub in boot you will notice a difference! If your just Head Unit and Sub amp as i used to be same applies.
If you gone more then that (big spl system) the big 3 will help but you'll need a high output alternator and an optima battery to be safe.
The Big 3 as i do it is to ADD to existing wiring. some people REPLACE existing wiring but as electricity goes along path of less resistance i feel adding to it means more paths.
The Ideal cable for this is available from halfords and marked as battery cable.
1x 76cm(30") Red length for battery to alternator (part number = 165324-0) £5.69
2x 45cm(18") Black Length for engine to chassis / battery to chassis (part number = 165266-0) £4.99
Basically what your doing is making the charging system more efficient which will improve sound quality and hopefully stop lights dimming as much and not kill as many battery's or alternators.
First using the long red length bolt one end onto alternator output lug and other end to +ve on battery. what this does is give a direct link to battery from alternator. as standard the alternator goes to other engine components before getting to battery but this is not the most important out of the big 3 (all will be revealed)
After you done it it should look like this
Next is Battery to chassis. for this you have to do some prep. Take out one of the topmount bolts (i used the front one on both my ground points) and using a flat head screwdriver scrap paint of JUST around the hole to give some bare metal to obtain the best ground (paint doesn't conduct very well). Connect one end of one of the black lengths to battery and the other thread the bolt through and tighten it back up to topmount.
After you done it it should look like this
Last but definitely not least is the most important connection engine to chassis ground. As the alternator is bolted to engine and thats the cars generator by doing this makes it easier on the alternator to work. On this one do the same prep on the topmount bolt area AND on the engine just by the timing side engine mount should be an 11mm bolt. undo this and with flat head screwdriver scrape it till you get shiny metal underneath it for the ground wire again. Now with the last Black length thread the 11mm bolt through it and tighten it back down to mount and the other end thread the topmount bolt through it and tighten that back down.
After you've done it it should look like this
After you've done that revel in the fact you have now done the big 3 your charging system is now more efficient and your whole I.C.E system will sound alot better.
As stated before will not stop headlights dimming completely or battery's / alternators dying but if like me you have Headunit as a pre-amp with a couple of amps and sub in boot you will notice a difference! If your just Head Unit and Sub amp as i used to be same applies.
If you gone more then that (big spl system) the big 3 will help but you'll need a high output alternator and an optima battery to be safe.
Don't worry about what I'm doing, I want you to worry about what you're doing
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