Posts: 229 
	Threads: 11 
	Joined: May 2013
	
 Reputation: 
 0
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
 Car Model/Spec: 306 GTI-6 trackday toy
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 2 thank(s) in 2 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		A properly made crimp is just as durable as a properly made solder joint, but both require the right tools, especially when dealing with these gauges. With my experience I choose crimping, even for smaller gauges. It's very dependant on good quality thought :-)
	 
	
	
Tinkerer of 306gti6 trackday racer, less stuff, more hard, more umpf, more stop.
 
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 6,258 
	Threads: 371 
	Joined: Feb 2014
	
 Reputation: 
 29
Location: suffolk
 Car Model/Spec: ford fiesta 
  
Thanks: 4 
	Given 82 thank(s) in 82 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (30-07-2014, 01:06 PM)Tom Wrote:  Hammer and a really blunt chisel   
Pikey!! Pikey!!! Use a nail and a vice.   
	 
	
	
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger 
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows. 
 
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 15,646 
	Threads: 541 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 124
Location: Aylesbury
 Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
 Thanks: 7 
	Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		If you cant crimp it I'd drill and tap the butt connectors for a couple of screws either side and then tightening them up locks the cable in like a battery terminal.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 4,605 
	Threads: 90 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 54
Location: Cornwall
 Car Model/Spec: 1996 306 DT M-TDI/16
  
 
 
 
Thanks: 0 
	Given 20 thank(s) in 18 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Grounding to the chassis is fine, mine always has been, cranks fine, just have to make sure you made GOOD grounds with GOOD cable, 90% of issues arse causing by crap cable and crap connections... 
 
I personally crimp things, soldering is a face, and a crimp thats done properly does just as good a job, infact alot of people say soldering in cars is unreliable due top it cracking, but tbh i think thats more long term as never seen it happen much myself....
	 
	
	
| Dyno Power Runs & Steady State Facilities Available, Just Ask Anytime | 
| #DervMafia |
![[Image: sigi-2.png]](http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk226/darrenjlobb/sigi-2.png)  
 
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 588 
	Threads: 91 
	Joined: Oct 2013
	
 Reputation: 
 2
Location: Reading
 Car Model/Spec: BMW 330Ci/VW Up/205GTi/205Mi16
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 5 thank(s) in 5 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (31-07-2014, 07:26 AM)darrenjlobb Wrote:  Grounding to the chassis is fine, mine always has been, cranks fine, just have to make sure you made GOOD grounds with GOOD cable, 90% of issues arse causing by crap cable and crap connections... 
 
I personally crimp things, soldering is a face, and a crimp thats done properly does just as good a job, infact alot of people say soldering in cars is unreliable due top it cracking, but tbh i think thats more long term as never seen it happen much myself.... 
This. I've got the battery behind the passenger seat in the 205 and that is grounded locally. Use a 'grip' washer though and it'll get a good contact to chassis (don't forget to expose bare metal too).
 
Part of my job is to maintain big UPS systems at work and I've never soldered the joints on the multi-strand cable (It's a big no-no on site) after crimping for that very reason, they snap (you're taking the flexibility of the joint away). No need to if you use the correct tools.
 
Incidentally, Halfords sell the battery cables ready with the lugs crimped on in various lengths.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 15,646 
	Threads: 541 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 124
Location: Aylesbury
 Car Model/Spec: 320bhp Impreza WRX
 Thanks: 7 
	Given 59 thank(s) in 58 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		 (31-07-2014, 07:26 AM)darrenjlobb Wrote:  Grounding to the chassis is fine, mine always has been, cranks fine, just have to make sure you made GOOD grounds with GOOD cable, 90% of issues arse causing by crap cable and crap connections... 
 
I personally crimp things, soldering is a face, and a crimp thats done properly does just as good a job, infact alot of people say soldering in cars is unreliable due top it cracking, but tbh i think thats more long term as never seen it happen much myself.... 
This! When I relocated the battery in the black HDi I earthed to the chassis and never had an issue.
 
You need to have a good earth to the chassis, I wouldn't use just 1 earth cable, I'd have 1 main one and a couple of smaller ones and make sure you pick a good point with a fine pitch bolt through a thick part of the chassis, seat belt mounts are good.
 
Also 25mm2 cable isn't enough IMO, you want 35mm2 to give it an easy life. I know the oem cable is only about 15mm2 but the thicker the cable the easier it is for the electric.
	  
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 148 
	Threads: 6 
	Joined: Jan 2012
	
 Reputation: 
 1
Location: Birmingham
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 1 thank(s) in 1 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
	
		Bloody hell those crimpers that you found are cheap cully, I don't know if I'd trust them to actually apply the appropriate pressure. 
 
I personally have a 50mm^2 earthing conductor, job jobbed.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 4,926 
	Threads: 266 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 18
Location: Somerset
 Car Model/Spec: 205 DTurbo
 Thanks: 73 
	Given 7 thank(s) in 7 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		23-10-2014, 01:33 PM 
(This post was last modified: 23-10-2014, 01:33 PM by silverzx.)
	
	 
	
		Fek sake for the BOT bump! However I bought some 500A/70mm cable today..   
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 10,864 
	Threads: 117 
	Joined: Dec 2011
	
 Reputation: 
 119
Location: Southampton
 Car Model/Spec: 306 HDi and friends
 Thanks: 13 
	Given 106 thank(s) in 106 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		25-10-2014, 07:40 AM 
(This post was last modified: 25-10-2014, 07:42 AM by Poodle.)
	
	 
	
		LOL, is that really necessary? 
 
I crimp with a punch then solder it in for a nice weather-proof seal.
	 
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	
	
	
		
	Posts: 34 
	Threads: 4 
	Joined: Oct 2014
	
 Thanks: 0 
	Given 0 thank(s) in 0 post(s)
  
	 
 
	
		
		
		25-10-2014, 08:05 AM 
(This post was last modified: 25-10-2014, 08:12 AM by w3526602.)
	
	 
	
		I kind of want a clamp like on the terminal clamp but just for joining wires. 
 
 
Hi, 
 
I probably don't understand your problem, but if it is that you want to join two bare ends of starter cable, I suggest the proper answer is to buy a brand new but longer length of cable, professionaly fitted with the corret terminals. 
 
And I always perfer to have the starter motor/engine "hard-earthed" (living language) back to the battery, prevents all that smoke. My Reliant Scimitar GTE was earthed via three sections of radiator cowl linked in "series". I'll let you guess at what problems that caused. 
 
602 
  
Hi, 
 
See my mail about ELECTRIC SMOKE THEORY. 
 
602
	
	
	
	
		
	 
 
 
	 
 |