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+--- Thread: 20mins work :D (/showthread.php?tid=30252)
20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 28-04-2015
So yeah, finally got around to fit my second hand MAF and it works, 3min swap out dunno why i waited so long...no smoke now and pulls fine
but earlier I saw a thread someone had posted on theywhoshallnotbenamed that was very interesting...
I have been wondering if my fans work as I haven't heard them in over 2 years! So this thread was perfect
http://www.theywhoshallnotbenamed/forum/threads/79426-Cool-Fan-trick-for-air-con-users
Basically bridge/jumper the connections in the ac pressure sensor (behind os headlight / washer water filler) plug 1 - 3 and unplug the ac pump plug and presto! fans when you want them pressing ac button
very easy to do and only 3mins in total 
I dunno if you have to be a member to see that thread though
EDIT: YOU NEED TO BE A PAID MEMBER ...cheers poodle
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 28-04-2015
You do have to be a paying member to see that. That mod is pretty much common knowledge here, but i really must put it in the guide section, cheers.
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 28-04-2015
I tell you what poodle, I'll do that when I get the chance tomo
I thought it was a nifty lil find, stay tuned
RE: 20mins work :D - pug306driver - 29-04-2015
this has appeared on here before before and I made a note about it, but just to be sure........
as above , remove a/c sensor connection by the o/s headlamp and bridge 1 and 3 for hi speed fan to come on when a/c sw pressed ( green light comes on? )?? and bridge 1 and 2 for low speed fan to come on when a/c sw pressed ( and green light comes on.)..??
disconnect the wires going to the a/c pump ( magnetic clutch? ).
are there any other wires to disconnect??
does the ecu make eng use more fuel when a/c is switched on??
or is it the a/c pump working that makes the engine use more fuel when the a/c is on ( more load so more fuel ) ?
now I have the courage to check this weekend, and I have only found one round terminal connector to the fans, which is below the air hose and by the rad on the cars l/h/s........I will be checking that terminal block for verdigree ( green corrosion ) and also removing the front grill and relay covers, by the fans.........just to be sure, and tick another maintenance item off the list.
I presume that if the coolant temp sensor fails, then the fail safe is now redundant?? ie overheat for any reason and the fans come on automatically.........temp sensor system fails and fans come on automatically??
with the manual mod ( a/c switch ) , the fails safe is now redundant??
ps I have edited the post to make it more easy to read and unambiguouse, hopefully
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 29-04-2015
Err...dunno mate, i will just say:
Bridge 1 and 3 in brown plug behind light
UNPLUG white plug going to ac pump
This is for people who don't have working ac and are not sure if their fans work...like in my case
I can confirm that the ac button light comes on when pressed, with the fans (both) as an override. You have to keep an eye on temperature IF your thermostat is fubar'd...but i would keep an eye on it anyway.
As for fuel consumption, i think that is down to the ac pump putting load onto the engine leading to more fuel consumption, as it would be disconnected I can't see it increasing anything...i could be wrong though
DEF unplug the white plug if you intend on doing this little mod, whether your ac works or not...i wouldn't trust what would happen if you have working ac and you tried this without unplugging the white one
RE: 20mins work :D - cully - 29-04-2015
(29-04-2015, 09:10 AM)pug306driver Wrote: this has appeared on here before before and I made a note about it, but just to be sure........
as above , remove a/c sensor connection by the o/s headlamp and bridge 1 and 3 for hi speed fan to come on when a/c sw pressed ( green light comes on? )?? YES and bridge 1 and 2 for low speed fan to come on when a/c sw pressed ( and green light comes on.)..?? YES
disconnect the wires going to the a/c pump ( magnetic clutch? ) are there any other wires to disconnect?? NO only clutch white plug and AC pressure switch
does the ecu make eng use more fuel when a/c is switched on?? YES but only by raising the tick-over to compensate for the extra load of the compressor
or is it the a/c pump working that makes the engine use more fuel when the a/c is on ( more load so more fuel ) ? AS Above
now I have the courage to check this weekend, and I have only found one round terminal connector to the fans, which is below the air hose and by the rad on the cars l/h/s........I will be checking that terminal block for verdigree ( green corrosion ) and also removing the front grill and relay covers, by the fans.........just to be sure, and tick another maintenance item off the list.
I presume that if the coolant temp sensor fails, then the fail safe is now redundant??NO it still works the same ie overheat for any reason and the fans come on.........temp sensor system fails and fans come on?? Yes
RE: 20mins work :D - pug306driver - 29-04-2015
thanks cully, wow that was quick!
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 29-04-2015
WEHEY!
I was a little confused by questions 3, 4 + 5
If the ac is unplugged then no additional load to engine is caused, am i right?
So, fuel consumption shouldn't be increased if the mod is made and ac pump unplugged...its just fans kicking in...?
oh, cully...
would slim lines work with this mod?
RE: 20mins work :D - Toms306 - 29-04-2015
Fans use power to run...so technically still using fuel to run them anyway lol.
You really shouldn't need fans on a standard HDi though, don't remember ever having the fans come on on mine... Only way I could check they worked is unplugging the sensor or PP2K tests...
RE: 20mins work :D - cully - 29-04-2015
(29-04-2015, 09:30 AM)highwayman306 Wrote: If the ac is unplugged then no additional load to engine is caused, am i right? correct but the ECU will still up the tick-over once ac button is pushed
So, fuel consumption shouldn't be increased if the mod is made and ac pump unplugged...its just fans kicking in...? shouldn't no noticeable increase
oh, cully...
RE: 20mins work :D - pug306driver - 29-04-2015
That's interesting, cos these cars are controlled by the bloody computer, and the software will make the car do as the software dictates, software dependent, as well as inputs etc......dam computers!?
So, disconnect the a/c pump, and use the a/c button to "idle up" when the engine is cold, as that's when the aux drive belt is loudest and flapping about.....it even skipped outwards one "valley" on the crank pulley ( pulley must have a problem, maybe outer disc has extra offset via "bursting rubber bonding dv damper" ) , so stopped squeeking ( belt just about touching auto tension allen bolt, and squeeks! until the eng warms up that is ) ......?!
Will try and see if idle up when cold helps aux belt flapping on lowest run from a/c pump to crank pulley.......about 1k revs and noise goes
Still not able to change crank pulley and remove a/con......time will come. not touching cam cover so ok ish for now.....please god etc.
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 29-04-2015
So... You're crank pulley is knackered? Not sure if there's a question in that post or not, had you considered using sentences to communicate?
RE: 20mins work :D - Eeyore - 29-04-2015
some good info on here. definitely needs a guide.
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 30-04-2015
(29-04-2015, 11:21 AM)Poodle Wrote: So... You're crank pulley is knackered? Not sure if there's a question in that post or not, had you considered using sentences to communicate?
Errr...Im with you on this
(29-04-2015, 11:05 AM)pug306driver Wrote: So, disconnect the a/c pump, and use the a/c button to "idle up" when the engine is cold, as that's when the aux drive belt is loudest and flapping about.....it even skipped outwards one "valley" on the crank pulley ( pulley must have a problem, maybe outer disc has extra offset via "bursting rubber bonding dv damper" ) , so stopped squeeking ( belt just about touching auto tension allen bolt, and squeeks! until the eng warms up that is ) ......?!
Will try and see if idle up when cold helps aux belt flapping on lowest run from a/c pump to crank pulley.......about 1k revs and noise goes
Still not able to change crank pulley and remove a/con......time will come. not touching cam cover so ok ish for now.....please god etc.
Flapping about! Theres summit up there, shouldn't be flapping about...sounds like your CS pulley is wank/fubar'd
plus, turning your cooling fans on on a cold morning to raise the revs seems a bit counter-productive if the fans cool your system...its like 1-step forward, 2-steps back. I imagine its going to take ages to warm up
def sounds like your CS pulley is going if the noise subsides after rev increase/warms up...could be the engine sound covering it though
take the aux belt off and start the car without it, if noise goes...its that or the tensioners lol 20mins work... Does the belt visibly "flap" around?
Srowell: Im working on building a guide, some things came up yesterday...and today lol but I'm on it
RE: 20mins work :D - pug306driver - 30-04-2015
Failed English o level many times, sorry dude. Had I considered that, I would have got an o level perhaps
Yes, the aux dive belt does flap about, especially when cold, on the bottom run tween a/c and crank pullies. The old belt still takes the shape of the belt run, even the new belt does, when its taken off the car.......so a memory problem with the belt, till it warms up.
Not able to do anything about the crank pulley yet as I want to remove the a/c at the same time, cam belt also probably.
Will have a play this weekend, to check for possible fan wiring problems as they can cause a fire, or so I'm told.
I know the low speed fan works as during the winter I left the car running at a fast idle ( 2k revs) and watched the temp gauge rise, got to about 100 then fell back to 90ish, then repeated....which is about the temp the low speed fan kicks in and out.
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 30-04-2015
Fan sounds ok, thats usual running temp
As for aux belt, how old is it and, forgive me for asking, has it been tensioned properly?
The offending wiring problem is with the plugs at side of fan and rad (bottom right hand side with bonnet open looking down) just water ingress and salt corrosion over time. Possible fix with cleaning and/or rewiring should sort that out, depending on how damaged it is...i still haven't checked mine lol
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 30-04-2015
Please excuse my piss-taking, was just struggling to understand what you were getting at lol.
A word to the wise: when that crank pulley goes, and it will, there's a good chance it'll do some serious damage. Many people have had it take out the cambelt and as a result wreck the top end, i fixed one that had gone like that at work a couple of months ago. Best thing you can do imo is fix it this weekend, as from your description it sounds pretty far gone.
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 01-05-2015
Yes, it will spit its metal guts into/under your cam belt and that is bad...VERY Bad! It doesn't take long to do mate. Be warned about cheap parts from ECP == http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=30023
other useful threads == http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=29832, http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=29854
I would get the "solid" face one, which in fact isn't solid but a better upgraded CSP with dampener but have heard of some buying the Lynx solid pulley which IS solid, no dampener, each to their own though.
RE: 20mins work :D - pug306driver - 01-05-2015
Thanks for the replies, yes I know and I'm really paranoid about it, the crank pulley I mean.
Tensioned as per the book.
Was in the dealers some 50 miles away last year and the tech said about these pullies, on a new ish pug, said aux drive belt failure was lucky not to take the cam belt out as well!!
A bit confused as the which pulley to get, Mikes being an Irish firm and not that reliable....not a fan of e bay as it seem to be a rip off charter/opportunity to me.
Will probably go for a pug 307 pulley, which is slightly different dimensions and needs a different belt, and again an other different belt for a a/c less conversion.
Anyways, pics to come of this week ends fun and games......will ask advised in new thread ( an other crank pulley thread, this subject needs a guide me thinks ) next week. I always learn new stuff on here!
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 01-05-2015
Yeah, the originals are bitches when they go... 307 has been the popular choice but as i have said, each to their own. I would get one the dampened new style CSP (flat face) as i have heard the solid (lynx undampened) can destroy belts, although i think its a rarity.
Removal is pretty easy, i have stated in the other threads that the pikey/caveman method of starter motor use is very quick and effective but to be on the safe side i would get a mate to lock the flywheel from under the car when you tighten the bugger back on
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 01-05-2015
Lynx pulleys kill belts more often than not, from experiences shared on here and elsewhere over the years, can only remember one bloke who claimed it wasn't a problem and he broke his car for parts in under a year, so didn't run it for long. Another vote for the flat-face 307 pulley here, been running a pattern one for a fair old while without issues.
RE: 20mins work :D - cully - 01-05-2015
my original pulley rattled like a bitch
[attachment=22937]
replaced it with a pattern part which promptly shit its guts out this was replaced under warrente which this one did the same
![[Image: Photo0307.jpg]](http://smg.photobucket.com/user/cully/media/pug306/Photo0307.jpg.html)
at this point i was getting a little concerned so went and bought alloy Lynx pulley which has been on two hdi engines ive owned now
i also bought a second pulley for the wifes car as the original one started to rattle
![[Image: Photo0308.jpg]](http://smg.photobucket.com/user/cully/media/pug306/Photo0308.jpg.html)
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 01-05-2015
Ahah, didn't know you were running one, Cully!
RE: 20mins work :D - cully - 01-05-2015
yes ran it on the estate for just over two years now ive swapped it onto my Dturbo hdi like i said the wife has one on her car too thats been on there year and a half
RE: 20mins work :D - highwayman306 - 01-05-2015
So not all bad press as I said, just makes sense being dampened to relieve the stress on belt from engine.
Spose it depends on how well they are engineered. I'm just saying this because it would only take it being out a "few thou' " and the pulley would wear the belt leading to failure.
Only what I imagine, as a dampened one would compensate for this and vibrations yadda yadda...
Each to their own as I say
and luck of the draw
RE: 20mins work :D - Poodle - 02-05-2015
Oh fair play, had no idea, cheers for the info. All i remember seeing is a few too many posts complaining about shredded aux belts, perhaps it was something else causing the problem, just seemed too much of a coincidence... Meh, as you say, could well be down to excessive manufacturing tolerances or something similar too. I'll stop giving them such a hard time.