(08-05-2014, 12:32 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: Disconnect battery Ave leave it for half hour, should reset its self

(08-05-2014, 12:32 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: Disconnect battery Ave leave it for half hour, should reset its self

(08-05-2014, 03:36 PM)powerandtorque Wrote: Is the replacement ICV known good and working?

Check that you've not created a big airleak somewhere and if not, try re-fitting the original ICV and seeing if that works better.

(09-05-2014, 01:10 PM)John1.4 Wrote: half an hour isn't really long enough for the ecu memory to reset, leave it off overnight imo,

was it a 2nd hand one or new? if it's 2nd hand it'd need at least a new o-ring for it to seal

(09-05-2014, 04:58 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: Hmm so many mixed messages :/ I just disconnected the battery so I'll reconnect it tomorrow and if that doesn't work then I'll just put my old one back on and wait till after FCS to get a brand new one

(09-05-2014, 05:15 PM)vincent1 Wrote:

(09-05-2014, 04:58 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote: Hmm so many mixed messages :/ I just disconnected the battery so I'll reconnect it tomorrow and if that doesn't work then I'll just put my old one back on and wait till after FCS to get a brand new one

this is off another site
How to reset Peugeot 306 ECU
Resetting the ECU is a good place to start if you are experiencing strange idle, running or stalling problems. Over time the 306 ECU picks up data from the sensors and 'learns' or adapts to the conditions. By resetting the ECU you will return it to the default settings and remove any 'incorrect adaptations' the ECU has made.

The most common use for this is to reset the Idle Control Valve (ICV) to its default position.

How to reset Peugeot 306 ECU:
1. If you have a standard radio make sure you have the code.
2. Open bonnet and disconnect negative (black) battery terminal.
3. Wait for 10 minutes (maybe time for a really swift cup of tea?)
4. Reconnect battery.
5. Insert keys and turn ignition to second click (all the lights in the dash will light up).
6. Wait 15 seconds or until fuel pump stops priming.
7. Start car
8. Take for a drive covering as many engine loads / rev ranges as possible.

(09-05-2014, 05:23 PM)John1.4 Wrote: the ecu does do a self test yes, but as parts deteriorate it adjusts to the new values for sensors over time, the calibration from those 'self tests' is held in a type of flash memory, which needs to be cleared after new parts are fitted which don't 'match' with the stored calibrations - the ecu assumes the expected values will remain the same, and doesn't know what to set the icv position to (for example) hence the high idle

the icv's are not all the same as above, there are 3 distinct types for the TU series, with different bolt patterns, and iirc one has a slightly larger diameter

(10-05-2014, 09:56 AM)Martin306 Wrote: Yes but the ECU isn't stupid, John

The ECU knows to continue closing the ICV when the revs are over the idle threshold and the TPS registers a closed throttle position So it'll start and rev high (as it's not as expected due to different sensor) but it should correct is very quickly.

(09-05-2014, 04:21 PM)Martin306 Wrote: The ICV does a self test every time you switch on the ignition.

ECU "reset" is not required.

Your ICV is dead, the wrong type? (they're all the same though ) or you've got an air leak.

(10-05-2014, 10:23 AM)Niall Wrote:

(09-05-2014, 04:21 PM)Martin306 Wrote: The ICV does a self test every time you switch on the ignition.

ECU "reset" is not required.

Your ICV is dead, the wrong type? (they're all the same though ) or you've got an air leak.

This. A ECU reset is not required!

Its always worth unscrewing the plunger from the ICV and giving it all a bloody good clean up with some brake cleaner. Sometimes it can bring them back to life but 9/10, it will only last for a few weeks or months then go back to its old ways.

(10-05-2014, 10:36 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 10:23 AM)Niall Wrote:

(09-05-2014, 04:21 PM)Martin306 Wrote: The ICV does a self test every time you switch on the ignition.

ECU "reset" is not required.

Your ICV is dead, the wrong type? (they're all the same though ) or you've got an air leak.

This. A ECU reset is not required!

Its always worth unscrewing the plunger from the ICV and giving it all a bloody good clean up with some brake cleaner. Sometimes it can bring them back to life but 9/10, it will only last for a few weeks or months then go back to its old ways.

I get insured in a couple of weeks so I'll take it for a drive and see if that settles it, I only put it in yesterday and drove for 1 minute in a car park so I don't think it had time to set itself up

(10-05-2014, 10:46 AM)Niall Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 10:36 AM)Nathan1305 Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 10:23 AM)Niall Wrote: This. A ECU reset is not required!

Its always worth unscrewing the plunger from the ICV and giving it all a bloody good clean up with some brake cleaner. Sometimes it can bring them back to life but 9/10, it will only last for a few weeks or months then go back to its old ways.

I get insured in a couple of weeks so I'll take it for a drive and see if that settles it, I only put it in yesterday and drove for 1 minute in a car park so I don't think it had time to set itself up

It should only take a few seconds mate. The only way the ECU knows where the plunger is is by the MAP sensor value. As soon as it detects that its too high for idle, it will push the plunger out but if the ICV won't work because its fooked, instead of cutting the fuel and stalling the car, it just allows it to idle silly high or not at all lol.

(10-05-2014, 11:41 AM)Niall Wrote: What else did you touch? Only other thing causing a high idle like that would be a air leak between the throttle body and head. Must admit even for a ICV issue, 4k really does sound high!

(10-05-2014, 12:27 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 11:41 AM)Niall Wrote: What else did you touch? Only other thing causing a high idle like that would be a air leak between the throttle body and head. Must admit even for a ICV issue, 4k really does sound high!

I just took the icv out and replaced it with the other one. I'll have to start it in a bit and see if it's all settled

(10-05-2014, 12:35 PM)vincent1 Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 12:27 PM)Nathan1305 Wrote:

(10-05-2014, 11:41 AM)Niall Wrote: What else did you touch? Only other thing causing a high idle like that would be a air leak between the throttle body and head. Must admit even for a ICV issue, 4k really does sound high!

I just took the icv out and replaced it with the other one. I'll have to start it in a bit and see if it's all settled

why did you decide to change it in the first place? was it reving high then as niall says it could be a air leak if it was high before and this icv has still not solved it.

(10-05-2014, 12:39 PM)vincent1 Wrote: i would say try to clean your old and new icv first as niall suggest they both could be faulty you may be trying to find a air leak that doesnt exist niall might know how to clean them ive only ever replaced one with a brand new one from ebay the person had no issues after i fitted it for him.