Compatibility of EU4 and EU3 injectors..

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Compatibility of EU4 and EU3 injectors..
#1
Seeing as there are quite a few CRD boffs on here, i thought i'd give it a try..

Can anyone confirm if EU4 injectors will work on a EU3 engine? Reason being; although my dads 530d is edc16 with the m57n, it's actually a Euro 4. Whereas my 330d uses the same engine and ecu BUT just missed out on the EU4, and is instead a EU3. Soo... The injectors on my 330d have a 6 digit code and my dads have the 7 digit code.

I pinched my dads injectors, put them on and now... i have the same symptoms as per my previous thread on here. HOWEVER, the engine management light now stays on during cranking, whereas it didn't previously and if easy start is used, the car fires up and runs fine now without having to keep the accelerator pressed. The throttle is also back to normal sensitivity, and the rail pressure at idle is reaching 300bar (up from 200, yaaay)!! The engine management light disappears when fired up.

Took it for a quick blast and it's fkin QUICK! Big Grin However, if turned off.. it can't be started again without easy start. At idle, there is an intermittent slight missfire sometimes - this is explained by the 'selective mass adjustment' values which are all over the place for each injectors. Makes sense seing as i haven't recoded the injectors - it won't let me as the new injectors are 7 digit.

So in summary, would the fact that the new injectors are EU 4 and 7 digit prevent my car from starting? Surely it wouldn't start at all if that was the case? The cranking rail pressure is still only 50bar instead of 300bar (up from 30bar with old injectors) Cheers
[Image: brokendown-1-1-1.jpg]

Dturbo GT2259s build thread;
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-3692.html

Daily driver; 330d Msport (doesn't blow up!)
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#2
I have no idea on the BMW stuff, but from memory the EDC16 Bosch stuff can run injector coding, so there is a good chance that because they are not set right the ECU isn't happy, despite the injectors technically being mechanically ok and working to a certain degree.

The starting might literally be to do with injector differences, the map for injection calibration is very finely set around starting/idling conditions and even a slight change to values might mean it won't do the start-up sequence, yet while in running operation the values can deviate more and more and still give you a running car.


So there are two issues, the injector calibration may be out enough to stop start-up sequence working, and the coding might be also causing issues, or might just be making the warning light appear and nothing more.




Someone with experience with these two cars should know really.

Why not just get some injectors designed for your car (EU3) and see if it will start despite the coding still being wrong?
If so then you know the issue is injector calibration and the coding is almost irrelevant...

Mini rant, but why even code injectors? What is the code any way, and mini calibration table? Or is it just some kind of feature to try stop theft of parts or something?

Hmmm

Dave
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#3
The coding afaik is for calibration per injector as far as I'm aware... And of course for ensuring no consumer can do any work on their own car....
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#4
Yeah, just a combo of screwing you over haha.

I guess it does make sure that people don't fit the wrong injectors and have their car wrong bad injections and cause damage. Then again that system allows, if we are guessing right, for older designs to go out of production and newer ones to be used on older cars and the calibrations updated.
So rather than use old potentially dodgy designs they can be series updated and applied across all cars more easily.

Hmmmm...

BMW stuff generally does make sense, and they don't screw you over... my BMW is the best DIY car I've have had!

Cheers

Dave
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#5
The coding is to do with calibrating the injectors for slight differences in IQ due to mechanical differneces unique to individual units.. apparently. Got a gd 2nd hand set in the end and recoded them with inpa. Running peachy atm. Doing a solid 50mpg with a heavy foot and combined driving. Love it! Its fun and RWD, but it's no dturbo! Funniest thing is sitting in the pug after getting out of the Beemer. Just how the fk did I use to drive that I don't know!? The driving position, interior etc etc. but I still love it! So it shall continue to live in the garage =D
[Image: brokendown-1-1-1.jpg]

Dturbo GT2259s build thread;
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-3692.html

Daily driver; 330d Msport (doesn't blow up!)
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#6
Dt power FTW.... French tin hatches are always better!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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