Td04 questions

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Td04 questions
#31
(13-07-2012, 01:53 PM)Jackabeen Wrote: ...down to removing these pins my hat is off to you mark for removing them with pliers!! I can't even budge them lol I would take the grinder out but I think I'll end up damaging the housing for the outlet one so may have to spend 50 thousand hours with a file lol

Tap the pin back and forth a bit with a hammer and chisel, should come out pretty easy with pliers then!
Gov modded 11mm Bosch + Standard turbo = 137.2bhp . . . . TD04 now in...time to get playing!
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#32
That worked a treat that harky cheers Smile
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#33
Did I not already suggest tapping it with a hammer to loosen it up? If not I must just have thought it and not typed it lmao
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#34
Can't remember seeing you write that lol either way it's all ready for welding up now just need to find someone , I can see myself buying a welder here -_- lol
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#35
I wouldn't go dewastegate if I were you, your EGT's will get very high and also the max boost these turbos were designed for is about 25 psi, and realistically we should use a max of 22 or so,

And plumb the water lines in if you want some longevity in it, I wasn't too much trouble...

[Image: 20120602_145929.jpg]
[Image: 20120416_174022.jpg]
you can see at the back I tapped in the heater matrix hoses..
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#36
Looks like more trouble than putting it down the back though tbh through all the research I've done into it theres yet to be any horror story's about running de wasegated and no water plummed in and I'm sure Ruan did a write up on not messing with the heater matrix system that may have been just bypassing it not 100% on that , yours does look like its been done really well wouldn't mind something like that myself but due to the td04s costing nothing compared to other turbos i couldn't personally justify all the work/man hours needed to do it when slipping it down the back would be easier and cheap to replace if anything were to go wrong anyways
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#37
Heater matrix is still plumbed in mate, just with the turbo in there as well...

Had to go there with the turbo because I used the 2.1 XUD11 and there's no room behind there as the manifold sticks out more than the XUD7/9

It's up to you at the end of the day but I reckon you'll do better with the water and the wastegate.
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#38
Yeah in an ideal world I'd have both because obviously they are there for a reason lol but just for ease of fitting im guna do it this way , what was the lag like on that btw with the relocation surely it took a fair bit longer to spool up ?
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#39
Does a little, but the extra cubes does help a bit as well,

Full boost at 3000rpms, 20 psi
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#40
Couple of things here, you shouldn't put the turbo in the feed to the matrix as it will totally mess up the coolant system and the way it works - Go and reads ruans thread about not bypassing the heater matrix as the same applies Smile

As for amount of boost and how long it will last with/without water cooling-

-the water cooling is only really the for when the car is switched off while red hot from ragging it (which unless your a retard you wouldn't do) and the oil provides sufficient cooling for the turbo bearings.

- I have been running 35+PSi for over a year with no filter and there is no more play in the turbo now than the small amount of slack in the bearings (taken up by the oil when the car is running) than there was a year ago.................they are a strong turbo!

Also removing the wastegate by welding it closed has no effect on EGT's, infact having a wastegate and too much fuel for the boost so that is smokes on boost is what causes crazy EGT's, with it de-wastegated if you add more fuel it ups the boost due to the extra exhaust gasses passing through the turbine so it still burns clean................................

I just thought I would clear a few things up Wink
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#41
Cheers for clearing all that up mark , iv always thought that that was the case with egt's wasn't too sure weather I made it up in my head though lol
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#42
You really shouldn't tee into the heater matrix lines, it'll screw up the flow through the cylinder head, more than likely causing all the coolant to go round there rather than through the main cooling system, IMHO it should be teed into the bleed line off the top of the head...

Also, hate to contradict Mark, but welding wastegates shut will produce higher EGTs... The smoke limit is higher than the actual level of boost provided, so say you're making 28psi with the wastegate closed, you could probably open the wastegate, make 24psi, still burn all the fuel, but the EGTs will be lower as there'll be less restriction on the exhaust side... That's why Variable Nozzle turbos work - they affect the restriction of the exhaust, hence I can make my turbo make 40-50psi of boost, but it goes worse than at 20psi because the gasses just stay inside the engine, rather than escaping.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#43
SO what your saying is that I need to redo my water cooling on the turbo?

Might explain why my water temps get high when ragging it.....
Where is best to tee into? just into one side, if you catch my drift?
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#44
Well... I just wouldn't put it on the heater matrix pipes, that's all...

Don't use anything to do with the heater matrix pipes, they're finely balanced... I personally rekon bleed line, it's mostly for the thermal syphon effect on shutdown, which would work quite nicely there...

Otherwise, put them on the oil cooler circuit....
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#45
hmmm... might be worth some investigation then at least...

I should also note as well, the heater still gets hot so there must be water still going through there and not bypassing it, and when I say hot I mean... melt steel hot...

(I should point out I myself run quite hot all the time and very rarely turn the heater on)
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