Td04 questions

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Td04 questions
#1
I'm just looking for some help/advice on what im doing if yous dont mind Smile I'm a full on noob to all this so bare with lol

Firstly I'm going to be running de waste gated so I've removed the actuator all together and to run de wasegated is all that I need to do is weld the little flap thing inside the exhaust side to the turbo shut ? Nothing else others than that I don't need to adjust the actuator or anything first?

Secondly I've removed the water lines from the cartridge what should I do with them just leave them as empty nholes or put the bolts and washers back in to seal it

And thirdly am I correct in saying the oil return needs to be pointing downwards or as near as I can get it the the standard position of the kkk turbo (I have one the work off )

Oh and has anyone got any cheecky little tips on removing the studs from the exhaust side so I can draw round it for the adaptor plate as the threads are shagged on them so I can't get no nuts on them it only came with 3 in wtf lol

Thanks in advance , I've done plenty of research before putting this thread up just have found no definite answers to my questions and like I said I'm a compete noob lol cheers Jack
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#2
(11-07-2012, 07:26 PM)Jackabeen Wrote: I'm just looking for some help/advice on what im doing if yous dont mind Smile I'm a full on noob to all this so bare with lol

1.Firstly I'm going to be running de waste gated so I've removed the actuator all together and to run de wasegated is all that I need to do is weld the little flap thing inside the exhaust side to the turbo shut ? Nothing else others than that I don't need to adjust the actuator or anything first?

2.Secondly I've removed the water lines from the cartridge what should I do with them just leave them as empty nholes or put the bolts and washers back in to seal it

3.And thirdly am I correct in saying the oil return needs to be pointing downwards or as near as I can get it the the standard position of the kkk turbo (I have one the work off )

4.Oh and has anyone got any cheecky little tips on removing the studs from the exhaust side so I can draw round it for the adaptor plate as the threads are shagged on them so I can't get no nuts on them it only came with 3 in wtf lol

Thanks in advance , I've done plenty of research before putting this thread up just have found no definite answers to my questions and like I said I'm a compete noob lol cheers Jack

OK here goes Tongue

1.Easiest way (and the way mine is done) is to have the actuator in place so the wastegate is fully closed and then weld round the arm but your plan would also work, you just need to keep it closed basically Smile

2. Mine are just left open, won't do any harm at all as far as I can see TBH

3. yes, you are correct. otherwise you will end up with a compressor full of oil which is never a good thing!

4.try lots of WD40 or similar to soak it and then heat the casting up and use something like mole grips or a plumbers wrench if the threads are fooked already.
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#3
As mark says to all of the above, to add..

No.2 I plugged mine, not really sure why.

No.4 Get a nut that fits over the stud and weld it to the stud, then as above, plenty of wd40 and out it come, welder will also help heat it!
Gov modded 11mm Bosch + Standard turbo = 137.2bhp . . . . TD04 now in...time to get playing!
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#4
(11-07-2012, 08:07 PM)Harky Wrote: As mark says to all of the above, to add..

No.2 I plugged mine, not really sure why.

No.4 Get a nut that fits over the stud and weld it to the stud, then as above, plenty of wd40 and out it come, welder will also help heat it!

Because you saw a hole and thought that it needed filling?............................................. lol

as I say, don't think it would matter either way,

but the welding on a nut is an awesome idea! but you don't want to heat the stud to remove it, that will make the stud expand into the hole making it tighter while its hot no?
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#5
(11-07-2012, 08:12 PM)mark_airey Wrote: Because you saw a hole and thought that it needed filling?............................................. lol

as I say, don't think it would matter either way,

but the welding on a nut is an awesome idea! but you don't want to heat the stud to remove it, that will make the stud expand into the hole making it tighter while its hot no?

Probably just that!

Yea, suppose in theory its heat in the wrong place, but heat in general I find sorts things, you could just cool the stud real quick again, but the nut should do the trick
Gov modded 11mm Bosch + Standard turbo = 137.2bhp . . . . TD04 now in...time to get playing!
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#6
Cheers for the replies Big Grin very helpful Smile and mark your way sounds good but I imagine withouth the actuator In place Ill have a couple more inch to play with ?

So basically to sum it up make sure gate/flap thingy as I like to call it is welded in the closed position and just leave the water holes , thinking about just putting a few bolts on there anyways just to stop shite getting in etc
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#7
once you have welded it round the arm it will stay shut take so just the actuator off, it can't open because of the weld can it................. lol I thought that much was obvious, should have been more clear, and yes, it just needs to stay closed Smile
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#8
Yes it was obvious and clear just clarifying lol youv been a real help once again Smile no doubt further along I'll have more questions for you lol , at the minuet I'm just mocking up where the turbo will sit on the manifold trying to get the holes lined up and sit stright and true at the same time lol , think I'm welding the turbo to the manifold then using adapters for the exhaust side seems like Itl be the easiest way to do it
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#9
[Image: IMAG0879.jpg]


^ that definatly won't budge! Even welded the lever arm for extra strength, abit over kill I know.

Gotta say though Mark had been a great help on my K04 build too, he has some uses.... Tongue
Stage 2 XUD Sedan
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#10
Feck off max, I can be slightly sarcastic at times maybe (silly question gets silly answer and all that Big Grin ) but I try to be helpful some of the time at least..........
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#11
Just noticed because of the little locating pin thing on the cartridge that slots into the hole on the exhaust side I can't put the cartridge in a position where the oil return is pointing down its pointing more stright towards the manifold how do you get around this?
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#12
What pin.....I have no locating pin Wink if your being pedantic you could re-drill it but it's going nowhere.
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#13
This could be my barnsley oven man mind at work here but I guess that means let the grinder see the pin ? Lol
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#14
Correct, LET THE GRINDER SEE THE PIN!!

[Image: 1327319204_b3ca8f6fcb87ee880be57e937f5eec21.jpg]
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#15
I likey! Thought about doing it anyways when I was looking at it all glad it's been confirmed before I did though lol just need to wait while I get home tonight split the cold side from the turbo once I get to Cpliers mark everything up and then find a good cast welder Smile going better that I thought so far but then again i imagine this is the easy bit lol
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#16
Just pull the pin out with a pair of pliers, muchos less pissing about!
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#17
I'll give it a go after work see if I need anymore questions answering
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#18
(12-07-2012, 05:12 AM)Jackabeen Wrote: I likey! Thought about doing it anyways when I was looking at it all glad it's been confirmed before I did though lol just need to wait while I get home tonight split the cold side from the turbo once I get to Cpliers mark everything up and then find a good cast welder Smile going better that I thought so far but then again i imagine this is the easy bit lol

If your getting circlip pliers, make sure you get a BIG set, I bought a pair, too small, a wee draper set with changeable heads, still too small, two flat blade screwdrivers...job done!
Gov modded 11mm Bosch + Standard turbo = 137.2bhp . . . . TD04 now in...time to get playing!
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#19
I'll see what sizes I can get my hands on iv tried screwdrivers no luck it's stuck in hard that lol
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#20
(12-07-2012, 04:14 PM)Harky Wrote:
(12-07-2012, 05:12 AM)Jackabeen Wrote: I likey! Thought about doing it anyways when I was looking at it all glad it's been confirmed before I did though lol just need to wait while I get home tonight split the cold side from the turbo once I get to Cpliers mark everything up and then find a good cast welder Smile going better that I thought so far but then again i imagine this is the easy bit lol

If your getting circlip pliers, make sure you get a BIG set, I bought a pair, too small, a wee draper set with changeable heads, still too small, two flat blade screwdrivers...job done!


and if you go with screwdrivers, watch yourself, I nearly lost an eye when they spadoinged under extreme pressure.
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#21
I'll give it a go just need to find a cast welder !!! Having some right trouble
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#22
Just heat the cast up until its glowing hot nearly and weld it with an arc welder Wink
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#23
Put it in the oven for a while, weld it with cast rods then back in the oven and turn the heat down slowly over 30min to a hour
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#24
Iv got no welder or welding experience lol I could get it done at work but today iv just started my 10 days off so ideally I wanna be using this time to get it all sorted or I'll have to wait while next months 10 days off to carry it on gunna ring a few places up in the morning see what quotes I can get if it's going to be much I'll just wait , can't see it been though surely for a experienced welder it's not a big job , just need to make sure they get the holes lined up and it sitting straight don't want any flow restrictions
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#25
Hire/borrow a welder, cover the cost and il send you some cast rods and just crack on with it, only thing with cast is pre and post heating, and keep the rod straight to what you are welding, normally it would be angled forward for the weld
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#26
Orrrr I could sort you out and you do it ? Smile lol

Anyways went and bought some cerclip pliers today (only cost me 5quid because the packaging was damaged WIN Smile ) got home popped the cerclip right off easy as ,, now down to removing these pins my hat is off to you mark for removing them with pliers!! I can't even budge them lol I would take the grinder out but I think I'll end up damaging the housing for the outlet one so may have to spend 50 thousand hours with a file lol
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#27
just get a small drill bit and drill a new hole for them in the correct place if you really can't get it out Smile
Team Orange Engine Bay

My flickr photostream - http://www.flickr.com/photos/markairey
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#28
Just going to grind them flush I think I can't see no reason not to tbh the cerclip and clam should hold it all nicely in place no ?
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#29
I would do it no prob but I'm in Scotland. il post some photos of mine. iv done it with tig tho
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#30
That'd be appreciated cheers
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