05-12-2011, 07:25 PM
A Stage 2 tune on a 306 HDi is commonly considered to be a FMIC and a re-map to a higher state of tune along with adjustment of the waste gate up to about 19-22psi and coupled with the breathing modifications from the stage 1 tune Iâ??d expect 150-160bhp.
Stage 2 Re-maps
A remap is basically an updated piece of software that is uploaded to your ECU (the engines computer brain) that alters the amount of fuel given under certain conditions. The Bocsh EDC15 that the 306 HDi uses is actually quite a complex and tuneable piece of kit so your tuner can alter the amount of fuel injected either via duration or pressure (or both) and also the advance (the amount of time it starts injecting before the piston reaches the top of the stroke) as well as a whole host of other parameters.
Stage 2 remaps are actually a fair bit more complex than stage 1 maps because the car is approaching the limits of the fuel system and the turbo. If a mapper sets an injection value that the car just simple cannot provide then the car will throw a hissy fit and either cut out or go into limp mode. The other difficulty in mapping a stage 2 car is at peak air flow the MAF sensor is outside its operating range and so doesnâ??t know how much air is actually being drawn in and with no boost sensor either a mapper must know how much air is likely to be going in through research and testing because too little fuel will lack potential power and too much fuel will cause smoke.
The final issue with stage 2 mapping is that the turbo is approaching its limits too (hardly surprising considering that with a good stage 2 set up you could be approaching double the stock power). Iâ??m told that about 19-20psi is the limit for the turbos long term reliability. 14-15psi is standard. A bad map with too much fuel or too much fuel at the wrong time can cause high Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGTs) and these kill turbos.
The standards were made deliberately small by Peugeot to give minimal lag ensuring a responsive drive around town and mean it was making a small amount of boost at motorway speeds that makes our diesels efficient. Peugeot knew that most people who bought a 306 HDi would never see the fun side of 3000rpm so it didnâ??t matter that the turbos would start to become a restriction at the top of the rev range. And if theyâ??re a restriction at 90bhp you can imagine what theyâ??re like at 160bhp pushing a third more boost than they were designed for.
It takes a good mapper to limit the potential damage caused by excessive Exhaust Manifold Pressure (EMP). The damage from high EMP might not just be limited to the turbo, it is one of the contributing factors to collapsing lifters.
There plenty of people who can map stage 2 cars, personally I would go to somebody who comes well recommended and somebody who can get the most power with the least boost.
The swapping of the turbo itself to a larger model or hybrid is considered a stage 3 modification and will be covered in detail in the relevant section.
Front Mounted Intercooler â?? FMIC
This is a device for cooling the hot compressed air from the turbo before it gets to the inlet. It is an air-to-air radiator that is mounted in front of your water radiator directly in the air stream at the front of the car. Cold air is denser and so has more oxygen, more oxygen means a bigger bang and so more power. It is reckoned that every 100*F drop in intake temperature is worth a 10% increase in power.
FMICs are a massive subject all on their own and so are covered in much greater depth in FMIC Theory and the FMIC Fitting Guide.
Clutches
A â??Full Fatâ? stage 2 map is likely to have too much torque for your standard clutch to cope with even if you replace it with a brand new one. This will bring you to a dilemma, do you get a limited torque stage 2 map that will also limit your power or do you swap for an up rated performance clutch that will hold all the power you can throw at in.
Inevitably most people will swap for a performance clutch but there is so many clutch upgrade options which do you choose.
eBay Clutches. Do Not trust these up rated clutches, they are often appear to be little more than just a cheap clutch painted red. From what I have seen of people on theywhoshallnotbenamed using them they donâ??t appear to be any better than using a standard Valeo or LUK clutch.
Helix Clutches. Come with a cover that has an increase in clamping pressure and choice of either an organic or a cerametallic drive plates (only the organic is listed on their web site but they can do the paddle clutch as special order I believe). Their older design of cover had such an increase in clamping pressure that it was very heavy work even for my massive legs and managed to start snapping the plastic ends of the clutch cable so I had to go and have custom metal ends made up (and they werenâ??t cheap). Iâ??m told that the clamping pressure has now been much reduced but still holds stage 2 power just fine.
CG Clutches. Their clutches are very good, especially for the money. A cerametallic drive plate and cover is currently less than £270 inc VAT however I have had issues with trying to get refunds out of them after a mistake of theirs meant that my clutch was over stroking.
Sachs Drive Plate. Iâ??ve never used one of these myself but if my XUD clutch conversion doesnâ??t start holding the power properly soon I will be buying one of these. You use the Sachs cerametallic drive plate with your standard cover and it from what Iâ??ve heard they hold power just fine even after 40,000miles of stage 2 abuse.
XUD Clutch Conversion. The HDi is fitted with a pull type clutch and the older XUD cars are fitted with a push type clutch that seems to be a little more capable of holding the power of a stage 2 car and because you can get most of the parts for a conversion second hand with a £100 Valeo clutch it can be a very cheap option. You will need a flywheel off a 1.8 or 2.0 petrol 306 (including GTi6), the clutch arm, the clutch cable and cable bracket from the gear box and a new Valeo clutch kit for an XUD engined car. The other bonus of this conversion is that if its not quite enough for you then you can upgrade to clutches that are meant for the GTi6 as that is a much more widely catered for market than the HDi.
Clutch Cables. Whatever option you choose you would be well advised to fit a new clutch cable as this will often cure any problems you may have been having with a heavy clutch pedal, you might not even of noticed it being heavy but you will notice the difference a new cable makes.
Stage 2 Re-maps
A remap is basically an updated piece of software that is uploaded to your ECU (the engines computer brain) that alters the amount of fuel given under certain conditions. The Bocsh EDC15 that the 306 HDi uses is actually quite a complex and tuneable piece of kit so your tuner can alter the amount of fuel injected either via duration or pressure (or both) and also the advance (the amount of time it starts injecting before the piston reaches the top of the stroke) as well as a whole host of other parameters.
Stage 2 remaps are actually a fair bit more complex than stage 1 maps because the car is approaching the limits of the fuel system and the turbo. If a mapper sets an injection value that the car just simple cannot provide then the car will throw a hissy fit and either cut out or go into limp mode. The other difficulty in mapping a stage 2 car is at peak air flow the MAF sensor is outside its operating range and so doesnâ??t know how much air is actually being drawn in and with no boost sensor either a mapper must know how much air is likely to be going in through research and testing because too little fuel will lack potential power and too much fuel will cause smoke.
The final issue with stage 2 mapping is that the turbo is approaching its limits too (hardly surprising considering that with a good stage 2 set up you could be approaching double the stock power). Iâ??m told that about 19-20psi is the limit for the turbos long term reliability. 14-15psi is standard. A bad map with too much fuel or too much fuel at the wrong time can cause high Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGTs) and these kill turbos.
The standards were made deliberately small by Peugeot to give minimal lag ensuring a responsive drive around town and mean it was making a small amount of boost at motorway speeds that makes our diesels efficient. Peugeot knew that most people who bought a 306 HDi would never see the fun side of 3000rpm so it didnâ??t matter that the turbos would start to become a restriction at the top of the rev range. And if theyâ??re a restriction at 90bhp you can imagine what theyâ??re like at 160bhp pushing a third more boost than they were designed for.
It takes a good mapper to limit the potential damage caused by excessive Exhaust Manifold Pressure (EMP). The damage from high EMP might not just be limited to the turbo, it is one of the contributing factors to collapsing lifters.
There plenty of people who can map stage 2 cars, personally I would go to somebody who comes well recommended and somebody who can get the most power with the least boost.
The swapping of the turbo itself to a larger model or hybrid is considered a stage 3 modification and will be covered in detail in the relevant section.
Front Mounted Intercooler â?? FMIC
This is a device for cooling the hot compressed air from the turbo before it gets to the inlet. It is an air-to-air radiator that is mounted in front of your water radiator directly in the air stream at the front of the car. Cold air is denser and so has more oxygen, more oxygen means a bigger bang and so more power. It is reckoned that every 100*F drop in intake temperature is worth a 10% increase in power.
FMICs are a massive subject all on their own and so are covered in much greater depth in FMIC Theory and the FMIC Fitting Guide.
Clutches
A â??Full Fatâ? stage 2 map is likely to have too much torque for your standard clutch to cope with even if you replace it with a brand new one. This will bring you to a dilemma, do you get a limited torque stage 2 map that will also limit your power or do you swap for an up rated performance clutch that will hold all the power you can throw at in.
Inevitably most people will swap for a performance clutch but there is so many clutch upgrade options which do you choose.
eBay Clutches. Do Not trust these up rated clutches, they are often appear to be little more than just a cheap clutch painted red. From what I have seen of people on theywhoshallnotbenamed using them they donâ??t appear to be any better than using a standard Valeo or LUK clutch.
Helix Clutches. Come with a cover that has an increase in clamping pressure and choice of either an organic or a cerametallic drive plates (only the organic is listed on their web site but they can do the paddle clutch as special order I believe). Their older design of cover had such an increase in clamping pressure that it was very heavy work even for my massive legs and managed to start snapping the plastic ends of the clutch cable so I had to go and have custom metal ends made up (and they werenâ??t cheap). Iâ??m told that the clamping pressure has now been much reduced but still holds stage 2 power just fine.
CG Clutches. Their clutches are very good, especially for the money. A cerametallic drive plate and cover is currently less than £270 inc VAT however I have had issues with trying to get refunds out of them after a mistake of theirs meant that my clutch was over stroking.
Sachs Drive Plate. Iâ??ve never used one of these myself but if my XUD clutch conversion doesnâ??t start holding the power properly soon I will be buying one of these. You use the Sachs cerametallic drive plate with your standard cover and it from what Iâ??ve heard they hold power just fine even after 40,000miles of stage 2 abuse.
XUD Clutch Conversion. The HDi is fitted with a pull type clutch and the older XUD cars are fitted with a push type clutch that seems to be a little more capable of holding the power of a stage 2 car and because you can get most of the parts for a conversion second hand with a £100 Valeo clutch it can be a very cheap option. You will need a flywheel off a 1.8 or 2.0 petrol 306 (including GTi6), the clutch arm, the clutch cable and cable bracket from the gear box and a new Valeo clutch kit for an XUD engined car. The other bonus of this conversion is that if its not quite enough for you then you can upgrade to clutches that are meant for the GTi6 as that is a much more widely catered for market than the HDi.
Clutch Cables. Whatever option you choose you would be well advised to fit a new clutch cable as this will often cure any problems you may have been having with a heavy clutch pedal, you might not even of noticed it being heavy but you will notice the difference a new cable makes.
