Cambelt timing

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Cambelt timing
#1
Right gunna give this another crack, just want some tips/tricks

Basically going to lock up the crank Pully/cams, cut the aux belt, and de tension cam and slip that off, slip new one on, slip new aux on tension cambelt, sort aux.

Then turn engine round by hand, check the cams still lock on after a complete circle of engine.

That all work okay?
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#2
Lock it off and mark it with a bit of tip ex or score it
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#3
Mark what? Cam position? Thats easy the pullys have lockin holes so just put a bolt in each to hold them still and the crank pulley has a hole too, locks in at 11 o'clock
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#4
You don't have to mark anything Phil. It's easy to do Matt. I don't know why you want to cut the old belts off though? Just take them off properly. Takes 30 seconds!
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#5
Does it? Took me quite some time to even figure out how to do it. Haynes was confusing the f*ck out of me
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#6
Ignore the Haynes.....it's crap. To take the aux belt off, put a 3/8 ratchet in the bottom of the adjuster and twist ( can't remember which way). That will loosen off the belt straight away.
With the cambelt, just slacken off the tensioner and 2 18mm cam bolts (yours might have 3 smaller bolts on each cam! And slip the belt off. Job done....don't do it till you have locked jt off thougj
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#7
My cambelt is so loose that all I have to do is slack off the tensioner and belt almost falls off.

So I loosen off the cam pullys, do I remove or leave them on?
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#8
Leave them on. The cams want to be able to move about a cm either way when the belts off. As long as the cams are locked offby the locking tabs, the cams will stay still but the pulleys can move to aid fitting and tensioning the belt. Once the belts on, tighten them up!
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#9
Sweet, and as long as they are all Locked up it keeps the timing right yeah?
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#10
Yeah. Lock the cams by the tabs into the side of the head and it will be fine. The pulleys are designed to move to help with fitting and tensioning the belt. Just remember to tighten them up!
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#11
Don't feel confident to do this myself, have all the bits to do know how to do it but don't want to break it so close to FCS and it needs doing as I don't Wang it to snap on route!

Been quoted £350 by a garage using there parts

Or £150 by a mate using my parts.

Is there anyone on here that would do it? On the cheaps? With knowledge, I will pay in beer (at FCS) or cheesy chips (at ace ) and £60 of my hard earned cash!
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#12
Matt it's very hard to break providing you stick to the instructions. Supprisingly, the guide in the Haynes manual is actually very good!
Get some 6mm dowels for the cam pulleys (or m6 bolts....mine were threaded so had to put a bolt in) and 8mm dowel or a long 8mm Allen key for the crank pulley.
Lock the crank pulley off first and then check the cam pulleys. They should line up. If both are out by about he same amount, your crank pulley has slipped and you need a new one. If one is out slightly, it obviously hasn't been timed up brilliantly at a previous change. They can be out slightly but ideally you want them to be perfect.
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#13
Yeah I've got the know how, but just worried I wouldn't get the new belt on or something or I'd slip and break something. I know what I'm like. But it's sorted now, me and Samass are gunna tackle it next week Smile
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#14
Easy to get the belt on providing the tensioner is slackened right off. Your lucky, you will have one of them auto tensioner things. Easy to use and can't get it wrong unless your a complete bell end!
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#15
Don't think I've got an auto tensioner :/ had a look the other day and didn't look good
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#16
Sure? The tensioner will have a little pointer sticking out the side which should be lined up with a notch on the back plate of the tensioner.
If all you can literally see is a round tensioner with a square 8mm hole to adjust it, it's not auto and you apparently need a SEEM tool but I don't bother. Either way, make sure you torque the tensioner bolt up (45nm iirc) because if it's not tight enough and slips you could (more than likely will) ruin your engine.
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#17
Fair enough, I haven't looked properly. Anychance of a pic of the pointer bit? I have no idea what it would look like. Yeah I've got the Haynes for torque settings. But no wrench! So tight as f*ck will have to do hahah
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#18
Matt you free thursday or friday morning?
If you cover my fuel from totton I'll pop over and give you a hand.
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#19
I'm free Thursday eve but that's about it. How much will that be? If not me and Sam will do it next week Smile
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#20
Matt I've got a torque wrench you can borrow if Sam wants to come and pick it up from me?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=306+ca ... 68&bih=928
The one on the left is the auto. Bolt it to the block, line up the teeth which hold it into the block and use a Allen key to tighten the belt. See the pointer that should align in the centre of the back plate?
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#21
Yep don't think I have one of those, think mine was just a 13mm. Loosen off and move it lol. And that would be awesome Niall. Pretty sure we sorting it next Wednesday Smile so if Sam could swing by that would be awesome
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#22
About 10/15 quid tops.
I'm free all day thursday so aslong as we can get it done by dark all should be good.
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#23
Well I'm free from 4 maybe 6 I'll have to check, got a torgue wrench?
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#24
Nope I haven't.
Let me know either way.
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#25
Meh tight as f*ck will do haha or I could go buy a torque wrench. I do need one lol
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#26
I can also speak to my local parts guy and get a copy of there workshop guide if you want also.
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#27
Chris Wrote:I can also speak to my local parts guy and get a copy of there workshop guide if you want also.

Will only be the same as auto data which I can give Matt a copy of.
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#28
Yeah do that, will be handy. Will be just slipping a belt on for now, but once FCS is over I'll be doing a complete head change full cambelt kit and head gasket kit. Just need some spare cash and time to give it a skim
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#29
ive a torque wrench. two in fact. just cuz im cool.
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#30
Chris I'm free from 4 pm me for my address if you can make it
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