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Bloody noise from down under.
Before I pull my last hair off my badly noggin I hoped someone here can offer some advice/suggestions...

 So ive been getting noises from what i thought was the bearings, changed them (N/S twice) but the noise is back and louder than ever. You would think it's an oval tyre, the noise at 60+ is terrible but it goes silent if you turn the wheel slightly clockwise to about 1 o'clock but go further and the full noise comes back with a faint grinding noise. Turn left and it's noise all the way. It's not a clicking noise it's just a constant drone with a vibration felt through the wheel at higher speeds.

 What the feck is it? CV joints, intermediate bearing or diff bearings. How can I check them?
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We had similar but turning to the left from memory went quieter, so thought it was the left wheel bearing. Thinking about it now may be it got noisier when turning right.

Anyways got car front up in the air, No play on either wheel bearing and from memory the right side was all ok.

The left again from memory was noisy with the wheel seeming to have tight spots, 11 per rotation from memory.  OMG its the diff??

Turned out to be wheel bearing, with no play, but on removal, saw etch marks on races and balls. I suspect water had got into the bearing some how and caused the etching. As said the tight spots where very pronounced.

New bearing fitted and all quiet. Some noise is creeping back probably due to the right wheel bearing, but have clutch cable to sort asap as well as the large bore breather hose from down by the starter motor and cam cover as the dip stick always seems to be out of its tube these days, the bonnet stopping it from coming out any further. Something tells me a jubilee clip aint gunna work for the hose clamp down by the starter.
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When I changed the N/S bearing at the weekend I noticed it was tight turning the hub flange, put it down to a duff bearing. I should of turned the shaft with the hub off to see if it was further in. The O/S bearing spins freely compared to the one I changed.

The popping dipstick can sometimes be caused by split engine cover mounts. Vibrations cause the cover to knock the dipstick out the tube.
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Aha, funny you should say that, when the clutch cable is back on ( was supposed to arrive today but didn't, due tomorrow now, bugger, it better be the right one ) I will try with the engine top cover off and see......

A new bearing when fitted may seem a little tight......
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Yeah I'd read that when the posts split ( or you lose some of the clips) it makes the engine cover rattle excessively making the dipstick pop out.

I think I'll check for play in the bearing that spins freely tonight, although it's newish I didn't have anything to check the torque at the time.
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Yeh i know what you mean, i did'nt have a torque wrench that would torque to the quite high tightness so got the Clarke electronic one, half inch drive and bleeps when approaching the set torque. A useful bit of kit and cheaper than a dedicated torque wrench for the higher values.

If the wheel is in the air, even one side at a time, you may be able to hear the noise. If only one wheel is in the air and the engine running in gear, then the diff is in operation as well as the crown wheel bearings.

Still not had a phone call to say the clutch cable has arrived, grrrrrrrr
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Found and fixed the problem, O/S front bearing was totally shot. It had only been on 10 months so I assumed it would be ok plus the noise sounded like it was coming from t'other side. Lesson for me is always check the basics first.

I now have access to the clarke digital torque meter which is well handy, goes up to 360Nm ?
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Cool, the noise on ours was coming from the opposite side to that expected.

The clarke electronic torque meter is well worth the money.
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