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1999 306 sedan rear torsion bar adjustment
#14
Yes, that is next step, to remove the torsion bars and AR bar. I have to find a 12mm fine threaded bolt today, I'm assuming "Ford bolt" is referring to a similar wheel bolt but for a Ford Focus or something.
And though the beam is tidy/new to look at the original grease will be $20 years old now.
If the XSi beam's pivot pins etc are no heavier, I wouldn't be gaining anything then.
I'm quite happy with the handling the way it is, I will adjust the height up a bit though. as I will be carrying moderate to heavy weight more often than not.
I think I learn't from one site that the rallye 306 would be just the standard 306 rear the same as mine, So that would be pointless
unless my housing was damaged, and probably still a gamble.
I wont withdraw the trailing arms until the new parts have arrived though.
I still like the idea of putting some oil in the housing before hand, It might melt a lot of the dried crud, and save the bearings when withdrawing the pivot through them.
In the long term oil in there might stop rust particles forming in the tube, or on the pivot for that matter.
I see now there is a bung behind the ARP plate, so it would be down to the outer seal for containing the oil, could only help prolong the seal life if it worked. The reason for water ingress could be due to lack of a breather, causing a vacuum when there is a cooling of the axle tube. Similar problem to boat trailers going into the water, hence the bearing buddy addons.
All this may sound a bit over the top, But my 306 is 100% rust free, and I have no reason to ever replace it.
The rust horror stories from European countries, makes me understand why Arabs came to NZ buying up all 504's to take back.
What can I say, now I have a few too many 405 diesel parts cars (at my NZ home) instead (-:
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RE: 1999 306 sedan rear torsion bar adjustment - by weka - 03-07-2018, 11:21 PM

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