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continuing saga
#1
please please please could someone PM me the answer to this please.

How can I disable the central locking so I can open and close the doors via the key lock. I need to be able to do this to give me some more time to fix the central locking problem whilst still be able to drive the car and get it MOT'd.

Also, how can I disable the immobiliser so the engine will run, for the same reason.

Please PM me, thanks.

These problems seem to stem from when the car gets wet. I am trying to cure some water leaks and not having great success.

The car at the moment will lock via the rf fob, giving 2 distinct clunks and the flashers flash.  On a open command, nothing happens. However if I open the p[assengers door and give the lock command, all doors will unlock.

The battery is to be refitted this afternoon after being charged ( it went flat a couple of days ago for no apparent reason, but I have been finding the car doors open some mornings, maybe opening and closing all by its self all night ? ) so we will she if she will start.
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#2
door looms in the rubber gaiters are at fault.... while battery is off, pull open the gaiters to look for broken wires. don't just solder them together either--instead add about 2 inches of wire as the repair and put 1 loop in it to allow for movement and it wont snap again. I also have a ford galaxy and that has about 18 wires that pass through door and tailgate gaiters....ive repaired about 6 over a 14 year ownership so I can say the loop added does work.
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#3
sorry to add a tangent, but, would a door loom be the issue for intermittent interior lights when pushing open the driver's door.
or is it a lock issue?
all other doors work the lights perfectly.
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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#4
(16-02-2018, 11:26 AM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: sorry to add a tangent, but, would a door loom be the issue for intermittent interior lights when pushing open the driver's door.
or is it a lock issue?
all other doors work the lights perfectly.

There's a switch in the door pillar for the interior light. It'll be that. Either peel back the rubber n give it a good dose of wd40 or replace. Cheap on ebay. If you opt to replace be VERY careful not to lose the wire inside the door pillar.
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#5
Ok, can these plugs be drawn thru the door pillar hole so they are inside the car, giving more room for inspection/repair ??

Is there an electronics box low down on the drivers side, either the door hinge pillar or the drivers door lock mech pillar please ?

Drying out at the moment, rear leak may be thru fuel filler flap, mot absolutely sure yet, some more masking and hosing to be done, but have found out the door upper weather strip seal fits over some hooks that are part of the roof ??

Will report back on those.
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#6
(16-02-2018, 12:51 PM)Mighty306 Wrote:
(16-02-2018, 11:26 AM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: sorry to add a tangent, but, would a door loom be the issue for intermittent interior lights when pushing open the driver's door.
or is it a lock issue?
all other doors work the lights perfectly.

There's a switch in the door pillar for the interior light. It'll be that. Either peel back the rubber n give it a good dose of wd40 or replace. Cheap on ebay. If you opt to replace be VERY careful not to lose the wire inside the door pillar.

thank you, but I don't think my PH3 has them.
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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#7
(16-02-2018, 02:31 PM)pug306driver Wrote: Ok, can these plugs be drawn thru the door pillar hole so they are inside the car, giving more room for inspection/repair ??

Is there an electronics box low down on the drivers side, either the door hinge pillar or the drivers door lock mech pillar please ?

Drying out at the moment, rear leak may be thru fuel filler flap, mot absolutely sure yet, some more masking and hosing to be done, but have found out the door upper weather strip seal fits over some hooks that are part of the roof ??

Will report back on those.

NO not easily without removing carpet and half the dash and fusebox joints behind!

   


yes side impact sensor for the airbags on the sill line near the fuel flap release

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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#8
So the citroen despatch van started all ok and seems viable but have to get the pug mot'd first. Its got the pug engine and very similar ecu stuff, so makes sense. It has its own particular problems like door locks and the speedo as well as some dash plastics issues. Only had as quick glance underneath but looks ok ish.

Taped up all possible water entry points on the rear right hand side of the estate, no water ingress, so peeled back fuel filler area and window area, still bone dry.

Water must be getting in via the top weather seal and/or the door seal. Maybe its getting past the seal over the spot welded seam and traveling along to drip inside the right cuddy at the back.

We do some more water spraying to test.

I may duck tape the spot welded seam that the door rubber presses onto/over and re try, after checking the upper weather seal body area for holes.

will report back.....
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#9
Some progress, sort of.

Its been very dry just lately, so repaired one broken wire on the drivers door loom, a thick white wire. Refited battery and she behaved normally and started more or less straight away.

Left running for an hour and shut her down. Car internal temp was up to 18 degrees or so, then she starts to mis behave a bit, lock and she unlocks straight away. Suspect make and break contact in door loom.

Please where is the drivers door switch/sensor that senses the door is closed please. Also other door closed sensors for the other doors please.

Looks as if I am gunna have to bite the bullet and do something about the drivers door loom, replace with wires as the pug repair part seems difficult and expense to get ?

I have found/felt the stub for the push on drain pipe for the heater intake duct, but the duct still seems firmly fastened to the other part. The drain pipe looks as if it has a small amount of silicone sealer on it, as there seems to be a small sealed area under the ducting, which is why I would like to remove the ducting to looksee.

Water leak into the rear cuddy of the estate right side seems to be coming from the rear passenger door upper seal area, more to come on that one.
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#10
The door open switch is in the lock itself on the ph3s, no door pillar switches.

As for water at the back of an estate, have you checked for rust by the seatbelt mount at the top of the NSR arch?
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#11
Ah, that's why I cant find them then, door cards off then.

The car is static and the rear seat belt area on that side is all fine. Water coming in from above that area, I taped off the window, upper door seal area and fule filler flap area, then hose piped, then removed tape area by area, finally leaving the door seal area above the passenger door still taped.

No water ingress since so must be coming in from above passenger door upper seal area. The upper weather seal seems to be fastened on into body steel u clips, there are some taped off areas under that seal that I need to check, this week hopefully as had OK to drive/physio test ( stent ) .
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#12
attachment=31393]attachment=31392]OK some progress, but not really.

Took off the drivers door card and spotted/felt some weirdness with the bunch of wires going to the door lock unit. It turned out that the last mechanic had looped this bunch of wires to shorten its run and routed them really poorly, so the window cable sawed its way into them ! brilliant !

All these eight wires go to the door lock unit, so a couple must be involved with the door open door closed sensor, right ?

Have been going thru all the saved diagrams I have of the ph3 circuits but not one shows the functions of the wires inside the switch unit, so I can do a continuity check on the door open/closed sensor.

Anyone know which wire does what please.

I have tried and had a feel behind the dash for the main bunch of the door loom, but it looks like some more stripping down needed. to get to the main bunch for a door loom repair/change.

I am still not sure   if the door loom is also at fault, but suspect I may be.

brilliant, picture now not seen properly, but wires chaffed thru and being sawn by the window cable are the beige one and a yellow, will try and rectify the pictures


Attached Files Image(s)
       
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#13
chaffed wires......

beige 6251 118'0011 to lock unit
yellow 8611 118/0011 to lock unit

all other wires to lock unit ok

red 6211 118/0011
pink 6231 118 etc.
light blue 6201 etc
white 6291 etc
green yellow N? 623 earth wire
green 6221 etc.

8 wires in toto to the lock unit "T" topped in red terminal block.

Will do and post a pin out diagram for the door wire bunch terminal block pin view and the lock unit pin view, and probably remove the lock unit to sus out where the wires go and what they do, for my future reference and the sites.

Door open/closed sensor.

Yes this does seem to be inside the lock unit.

With the door open wide and using a suitable screwdriver, the latch can be "set" to resemble a closed door.

Using the inside door handle to "release" the mechanism, and a screwdriver to control the release, the interior light comes on after the door latch set has been released slightly.

This seems to happen on all 4 doors. I have yet to check/test the estate rear door.

The rear doors latch seem to have less "resistance" than the front doors.

The front passenger door seems to experience some water passing thru the lock unit, which may be adding to the central door locking confusion.

I think its time to remove all the door card panels and check.
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#14
Whilst the  drivers door card is off, I have  removed the door loom socket from  inside the door, so I could clean etc. the contact pins for the loom plug/socket.

There was some verdigree on one of the pins and the clear plastic "dome" on the back of the socket was cracked. I could see that water was entering the dome and causing problems with the wires.

I sprayed with wd40 type spray and taped up the cracks etc. to try and keep out any water.

Is been raining overnight and so far no door lock issues at all. Everything is working fine, dare I say better than ever before !!

I will be hard wiring in a new "plug and socket free" and " totally water proof" drivers door loom from behind the dash area right into the door "void" during the summer, as I have had enough of water electronics problems.

Water is still getting into the back of the estate, so must be coming in thru the window seal area, which is next to be re sealed.

I will also have to insert some new "holes" at the bottom of the inner door seal, so water leaking into the door seal, can easy drain out, rather than drain into the car rear passenger area.
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#15
Whilst hunting down the earth location diagram a few days ago, I came across a wiring diagram for the central locking system on here I had not seen before. The locks on the doors have several "switches" inside them, any one of which being a bit "sticky" could confuse the system ecu I suppose.

This is a brilliant forum, thanks thanks thanks.........

ps its been dry for ages now and the car of course still misbehaves from time to time, so it aint "weather" related, unless of course there is a bad connection somewhere that is influenced by heat as well as cold and damp, what fun.
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