Howdy fellas, so my trusty gal (2001 Peugeot 306 hdi) developed that tickety tickety noise known as a failing crankshaft pulley. Whipped the aux belt off and the noise went away, also noticed I can wiggle the pulley laterally with my hands, so decided to replace it.
After waiting ages for a 22m socket I could finally get started. Only I'm having trouble locking the crankshaft. I've got my trusty assistant woody the plank of wood wedged on the brake pedal, but I can still rotate the crank a good amount until it "winds up" (best way I can think of describe it? Feels like the old clockwork toys you had as a kid) and resists.
Am I safe to rotate the engine anti-clockwise until the slack has gone? I thought I could remember once reading on the 'net that it could skip the timing if rotated the wrong way? I can't see how it would do that, but figured I'd ask just to confirm before I risk doing damage. Though I think the only time turning an engine counter-rotational is advised against is specifically when doing the timing.
I was tempted to lock the flywheel using the locking pin hole on the case, untill the Haynes manual warned me "Do not be tempted to use the locking pin hole on the case."
I use the locking hole sometimes but only on my own car cause im a massive pikey. If not disconnect the injectors wedge bar against the floor. And turn key.
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On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
Ah well I was hoping for a non-pikey answer but I'll take what I can get :p
Really don't fancy cracking it off with the starter, but if needs must I'll give it a whirl. Was just hoping I could do it by hand. After looking at the Haynes it sometimes (like when doing timing) reccomends rotating the engine backwards so I get the feeling its safe, but I don't know enough to risk it.
I've done three now wedging a breaker bar on the nut and flicking the starter motor. Always works for me. A bit scary first time and at your own risk but lots of vids on you tube and really sorted me out when I'm on my own and no helper around
Oh yeah I forgot to mention I had it in 5th yeah. Funny you mention it though as I also took the front wheel off and when I was working in the dark as first I hadn't noticed that with the wheel off and studs out that all it would do is spin the shaft! Felt really daft when I realised. Put the wheel studs back in to solve that.
I'll try the cranking the starter method tomorrow when its light. Given that I still don't know if its safe to rotate the engine backwards at all, using the starter method I'm at least working "with the engine" rather than against it.
To remove the Crankshaft Pulley I used a Clarke CEW1000 Electric Impact Wrench from Machine Mart. A coupe of bursts with that got the job done. I dont think you should lock things up with timing holes.
Right well I went out this morning and used the starter trick, did a lovely job slackened it right off
Only problem is getting the new one on! Took the old pulley off, slid the new one on, started tightening it up...
Then stopped tightening it up, I can still see about 1cm of shaft on the bolt but I can't get it to go any tighter. I also got the torque wrench out only to find its past the 40nm tightness. So now I'm stuck with no idea what to do next. It was a new bolt that came with it, but they looked identical thought stupidly I didn't check the threads and such so I'm really hoping the bolt isn't the wrong one. I'm so certain that the bolts were identical, but you know what its like where you start to doubt yourself if you didnt take a photo at the time.
Any advice as to what I should do now would be great, though I'm guessing the answer is going to be impact wrench for christmas? With it hanging off like this I can't even limp her to the garage for them to fix my mess.
09-12-2016, 07:17 PM (This post was last modified: 09-12-2016, 07:18 PM by CaptainHair.)
Second time writing this out, first time I had a huge burning pcb smell right as I was about to hit post. Shutdown my pc and it just turned out to be a lightbulb. I forgot the new ones make that smell on their way out.
So here we go again. Yeah I used the spacer, though it was about the width of that spacer that was left showing on the bolt. But yeah I'd definitely used it.
Anyway I used the starter trick (oooooh sooo carefully!) to remove the not-quite-fitted bolt, getting the hang of it now! Won't be so scary when I have to do it on the Defender! Careful measurements with the calipers and thread guides found the measurements of the pulleys to be identical and the bolts to be almost identical. Only difference being the new one has about 3 threads less down the length of its shaft. However you can see the threadlock hasn't been disturbed far enough down for it to have made a difference?
Not really sure what to do next. Maybe have an inspection of the bolt hole and clear out any debris carefully with a pick? Find out the exact thread and size to buy a tap to clean it out with?
I've included a picture, new bolt is on the right. I feel they're similar enough for the problem to lie elsewhere.
Just tap it and clean it out. Or heat the bolt up then thread it in. If its warm will melt the thread lock on way in. Had it a few times where they get "tight"
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On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
10-12-2016, 07:28 AM (This post was last modified: 10-12-2016, 07:30 AM by Poodle.)
Yeah clean the internal thread out, a pick would do the job fine. 40nm isn't right for torque setting, that'll fall out in a week. Should be about 200nm.
Edit: Quick look on autodata says 40nm +51 degrees, then re-check with torque wrench to 195nm.
Yeah I forgot about it being angle tightened later, I thought 40nm seemed low when I was going through stuff. The final check for torque I'll have to get done at the garage when it goes for MOT as mine only goes to 170nm
Anyway, I've had great progress today! I went to clean the threads out but upon investigation they were almost totally clean! By a stroke of luck the largest tap I had in my set was the exact one I needed! Ran it through but it didn't pick up anything besides a very faint trace of blue colour from the threadlock.
Anyway, I refitted the new pulley and decided just to have another go but using the original bolt. I also applied new threadlock, but it was in liquid state rather than the putty-like stuff that comes on the bolts by default.
Don't know if it was using the older bolt or if the liquid threadlock was just enough to lubricate it, but it went in all the way with just my stubby wrench on it! I was amazed! Tightened it to 40nm no problem and had it angle tightened without issue either!
So thats my troubles delt with for now, thanks everyone : then got started fitting the aux belt, but stupidly didn't have my goggles on, got a bit of grit stuck in my eye and almost had to go to a&e before I managed to rinse it out.
