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NO! dont say stuff like that haha! Highcomp and boost FTW
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The 6s are meant to arrive by the end of today. Will see how I get on with those!
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(22-09-2016, 08:17 PM)Toms306 Wrote: I never realised there was so much variation in a spark! Thought it was only the gap that made any difference, I've learnt something there.
heat range is linked to the length of the ceramic insulation around the centre electrode.
(i'm sure i'll be corrected if i'm wrong)
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
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(23-09-2016, 06:28 PM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: (22-09-2016, 08:17 PM)Toms306 Wrote: I never realised there was so much variation in a spark! Thought it was only the gap that made any difference, I've learnt something there.
heat range is linked to the length of the ceramic insulation around the centre electrode.
(i'm sure i'll be corrected if i'm wrong)
yeh seems right from what ive read. Surprised it has this much affect.
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28-09-2016, 11:27 AM
(This post was last modified: 28-09-2016, 11:36 AM by welshpug.)
(23-09-2016, 01:22 PM)Stef205 Wrote: Still to hot imo :/
naah it'll be fine for a standard engine used as a road car.
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so ive swapped the sparks and if anything it was worse. I did also swap coil packs so will try the original again. Seemed to be missing completely on one cylinder as i could unplug one of the injectors and it would make no difference to the running. Ill try the ht leads and coilpack to see if it runs any better... otherwise the problem could lie with the ecu.
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unlikely its the ecu if its one cylinder, theyll be on batch fire so itll affect two or four cylinders.
could be a duff injector or damaged wiring.
or gasket as mentioned.
take a picture of the plugs when it does the misfiring
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can someone run me down how the headgasket is the issue? just compression loss?
It seems to be more of an issue when maintaining constant revs. Foot down it clears itself and then its spot on.
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gasket could be compression loss or instruction of coolant into cylinders at rest.
check the plugs.
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(04-10-2016, 04:27 PM)fatlapit Wrote: Try the fueling side
think it should be okay but ill throw in another set of injectors.
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04-10-2016, 05:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-10-2016, 05:53 PM by welshpug.)
thats why i said check the plugs.
when were your injectors tested last?
oh yeah, fixed fpr or one of then wank adjustable ones?
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(04-10-2016, 05:53 PM)welshpug Wrote: thats why i said check the plugs.
when were your injectors tested last?
oh yeah, fixed fpr or one of then wank adjustable ones?
adjustable fpr. The standard blue one that comes with the body kit. Injectors... never tested.
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Guys im going to swap out the injectors for another set and see what happens. Can anyone recommend any upgraded injectors?
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(10-10-2016, 02:42 PM)Eeyore Wrote: Guys im going to swap out the injectors for another set and see what happens. Can anyone recommend any upgraded injectors?
Surely putting in upgraded injectors is going to mess with your map youve just had done due to wrong cc,s just get another set of what you got. After going in it the other day its already fast!!
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(10-10-2016, 03:08 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: (10-10-2016, 02:42 PM)Eeyore Wrote: Guys im going to swap out the injectors for another set and see what happens. Can anyone recommend any upgraded injectors?
Surely putting in upgraded injectors is going to mess with your map youve just had done due to wrong cc,s just get another set of what you got. After going in it the other day its already fast!!
omex has a config option which allows you to keep the same map, change the injector value and then it adjusts the map for you. not sure how accurate it is though.
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not very.
get a fixed fpr, cleaned standard injectors and take it to be checked.
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(10-10-2016, 04:20 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (10-10-2016, 03:08 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: (10-10-2016, 02:42 PM)Eeyore Wrote: Guys im going to swap out the injectors for another set and see what happens. Can anyone recommend any upgraded injectors?
Surely putting in upgraded injectors is going to mess with your map youve just had done due to wrong cc,s just get another set of what you got. After going in it the other day its already fast!!
omex has a config option which allows you to keep the same map, change the injector value and then it adjusts the map for you. not sure how accurate it is though.
not as simple as that im afraid, pico injectors are the ones for itbs but they are shorter than oem units so will need the rail modifying.
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not for jenveys, if its on a full size injector the rail will be bolted down with longer bolts and a spacer, with short body like pico type they bolt straight up.
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Don't go changing injectors for different ones unless you know exactly what you're doing, re-scaling is just shit - the dead time settings are never quite right, so unless you're going to get it with a wideband and actually adjust it, you'll be introducing more problems.
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I had HG failure on an old 306 and it manifested itself as gradually becoming harder and harder to start from cold due to coolant seepage as WP said. Once it got going it ran alright with no misfires etc. until it failed.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.
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(12-10-2016, 01:11 PM)RetroPug Wrote: I had HG failure on an old 306 and it manifested itself as gradually becoming harder and harder to start from cold due to coolant seepage as WP said. Once it got going it ran alright with no misfires etc. until it failed.
yeh so this seems to be fine. Its not losing coolant as far as i can see and it starts up just fine and idles well.
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(12-10-2016, 01:12 PM)Eeyore Wrote: (12-10-2016, 01:11 PM)RetroPug Wrote: I had HG failure on an old 306 and it manifested itself as gradually becoming harder and harder to start from cold due to coolant seepage as WP said. Once it got going it ran alright with no misfires etc. until it failed.
yeh so this seems to be fine. Its not losing coolant as far as i can see and it starts up just fine and idles well.
No mayo in oil cap, no oil in coolant, and compression test all ok as well?
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ok guys bit of an update!
Swapped out the injectors, fitted the tu coilpack with ht leads, cleaned up the earths, took the omex apart to check for dry solder... no change!
In the mean time also swapped the thermostat out.
Took it up to carl chambers pre track day and still as stumped. sat their idling fine for 20 minutes with no issues and went for a drive and it misfired twice.
Next day brimmed the tank and no misfires. Seems that if the tank is more than 2/3rds full there are no issues whatsoever.
Only thing ive changed around the tank is fitting a new walbro 255 pump. Modified the housing to make it fit but that doesnt cause any issues.
What I guess could be happening is that the fpr is set so hard that there is no fuel being returned? the fuel pump housing has the external pickup bag and an internal bag as well which is where the returned fuel goes. If no fuel is being returned i guess it could be using up all the fuel inside the housing and then not drawing fuel in effectively. The housing has a hole near to the top so i guess when the tank is full it sloshes over the top and fills it.
thoughts?
googled image to show my thoughts...
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you're using nowhere near the max of the fuel pump so there will be plenty of fuel going back to the tank.
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so why do we think that having greater than 2/3rds of a tank fixes the issue?
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try running with a loose filler cap bet the tank is not venting
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16-11-2016, 10:21 AM
(This post was last modified: 16-11-2016, 10:22 AM by welshpug.)
im not a fan of those walbro things, they never fit properly, and they dont last.
mine lasted 3 months, got an o.e bosch replacement
if fuel level is affecting it then its not fitted properly.
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(16-11-2016, 10:21 AM)welshpug Wrote: im not a fan of those walbro things, they never fit properly, and they dont last.
mine lasted 3 months, got an o.e bosch replacement
if fuel level is affecting it then its not fitted properly.
like i said, this is an issue both before and after fitting the pump.
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