Brands of Engine Mounts?

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Brands of Engine Mounts?
#1
Alright guys, 

So I think my lower engine mount might be on the way out (Quite a bit of gear stick movement, and also like a clunky noise if I am pulling away and let the revs drop too low, and a sorta lurch as I come on and off the accelerator.) 

What are good brands of them? On Mister-Auto.co.uk  there is febi-bilstein and Corteco. The Corteco ones are much more pricey than the Febi-Bilstein ones.

Any suggestions of what brand to do with?

Thanks Big Grin
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#2
First check the o/s engine mount... Could have broken
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#3
If you are wanting a new bottom mount bush there not very expensive from peugeot, or could try a powerflex one. They have a fairly new design, i'm not sure how harsh they are though, I have only experience of the older design.

I have a genuine one turn 90 deg fitted to mine.
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#4
I'd go genuine for the bottom mount as they are a pain to change! About £25 from Peugeot I think. I fitted a SASIC one and wish I'd fitted genuine one as the SASIC one wasn't great quality.
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#5
Fair enough Smile Cheers guys. Do they make any difference to the handling of the car? I am not sure.
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#6
If one mount has gone they probably all need replacing - as it happens the gearbox one causes gearstick movement and the top mount can knock when it's really tired, so sounds like they're well gone anyway from your description. It'll make a huge difference to handling, the engine is a heavy old lump to be shifting around in the chassis as you corner, could well be an underlying cause of your handling issues.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#7
Does make sense doesn't it. I think the problem is the signs have never really gotten just quite bad enough. But now that they have got a little worse I have been able to identify it from the knocking when at very low revs and the slight clunk as I change gear. Probably been very close to worn out for a while just finally going over the edge now haha. Cheers fellas Smile

So best option is phone peugeot to find a genuine bottom mount.
Top left and right is just best brand I can find really I suppose?

Thanks Big Grin
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#8
To be honest, id save your money and just buy all three Febi mounts, will save a lot of money and be easily good enough for a good few years/miles to come!
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#9
A full set of febi-Bilstein ones come to £27 but would be daft if they wear out really quick. Would the two top ones be alright as febi-bilstein?
And then get the genuine botton ones?
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#10
(26-06-2016, 01:29 PM)JTaylor2005 Wrote: A full set of febi-Bilstein ones come to £27 but would be daft if they wear out really quick. Would the two top ones be alright as febi-bilstein?
And then get the genuine botton ones?

That almost seems to cheap to be good but febi is decent stuff. May aswell get it all febi. I would expect all 3 from peugeot would be well over the £100 mark.

Up to you what you do whether you get the top 2 febi and bottom 1 genuine. Prob be easier to get all febi and cheaper. It looks a lot cheaper the the corteco stuff as well.
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#11
Yeahh they are suprisingly cheap. Almost worryingly so. Could worn engine mounts wear the front tyres quicker as well? I have got tracking done and that's all good :/
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#12
Wear on tyre edges could be down to play in your balljoints (ie track rod ends, wishbone balljoints, inner rack ends) or your wishbone bushes. If they're just wearing quickly it'll be down to cheap tyres or your driving style.
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#13
They are wearing all over quickly tbf. They are uniroyal rain sports which I heard were soft but damn they have gone quickly and I wouldn't exactly class my driving style as too aggressive really. Oh well haha.
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#14
Yeah i chewed through a set in a few thousand miles, the michelins do me about 20k.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#15
Yeah. Definitely going back to a harder tire next time haha. As grippy as the rainsports are they just don't last. Good to know I'm not the only one thats eaten through them then haha
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#16
The wear on Rainsports is daft, nearly as bad as T1Rs which are even worse...

On Dunlops on the Focus, equal or better wet grip as the rainsports but a stiffer sidewall and wear well, just rotated front to rear after about 12k as the outer edges are getting a bit low on the fronts. Reckon I'll easily get 20k from them with rotation tbh.
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#17
Hmmm, which dunlops? My little 106 nad has destroyed a set of street responses in 10,000 miles or less and they don't even make up for it anywhere else, wet grip for example. :S

Tbqh i didn't even find the rainsports very grippy, were certainly a serious disappointment in every respect after driving on pe2s, they couldn't even match the wet grip.
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#18
Iirc Sport Blueresponse, I had a set and quite liked them personally. Lasted over average, so quite pleased.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#19
(27-06-2016, 07:58 AM)Ruan Wrote: Iirc Sport Blueresponse, I had a set and quite liked them personally. Lasted over average, so quite pleased.

Good tyre those, have a set on the Astor, Good tyre and as you said, actually do last well, covered alot of miles on it and still plenty of meat in them yet!
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#20
Yep that's the ones! There's nothing 'blue' about them which was a little disappointing, MPG didn't change over the Hankook Ventus' that were on there before.

However the 'sport response' and wet grip are great tbh, it takes a lot for me to praise a tyre but even with my lack of skill and occasional excess speed in the wet they just don't let go.
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#21
BTW - I used a Febi top mount on my D Turbo - seems to have held up fine after at least 50k.

Gearbox mount I went genuine as I found a cheap deal on eBay.
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#22
(26-06-2016, 09:37 PM)Poodle Wrote: Yeah i chewed through a set in a few thousand miles, the michelins do me about 20k.

i had nearly 35k out of those properly rotated michelins,
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#23
I don't rotate tyres and i did a few track sessions and nurburgring laps on the miches in fairness. Tbf the dunlops drove well, was just disappointed with the wear on them. I'm particularly hard on tyres, but i would still expect more than 10k from a set, especially since my missus was driving for half of that distance.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#24
unless you have access to a press, i would not go genuine bottom mount.

To go with the genuine ones, you need to drop the drivers wheel, and pull the drive shaft, then you have access to the mount it sits in, which has to be removed from the car to be done.


Or if you want to do it your self, fit PowerFlex. The only gripe i have with it, is on tickover my dash rattles. thats it... it is a piece of piss to fit,

i hole bored the old rubber out, (biggest hole saw i could fit in there without damaging the casting) then used a hacksaw to cut the outer sleeve. Then it simply taps out. Putting the new bush in if it is PowerFlex is a case of grease it up, slip in one half, slip the other half in, then push the inner sleeve through, and boom, your done all apart from buttoning up.

It is quite literally a 45 min job, 30 if your lucky, an hour if your not. Smile
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#25
All sounds so easy haha. Doubt I'd do that well with it tbf. What are the two top ones like to do? I got access to the right one when doing my gearbox oil. Just dunno how easy they are to change. I presume hold engine up with jack. Remove mount and fit new one?
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#26
The gearbox mount and top mount are both pretty easy to change, support the engine with a jack first as you say. If you find the nuts/bolts are still under tension as you're undoing them adjust the jack up a bit more.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#27
(30-06-2016, 09:14 PM)Poodle Wrote: The gearbox mount and top mount are both pretty easy to change, support the engine with a jack first as you say. If you find the nuts/bolts are still under tension as you're undoing them adjust the jack up a bit more.

Brilliant cheers mate. Think I will take them two on my self with the help of a friend and then get the bottom one done at a garage for me Smile

Cheers
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#28
As said check your upper engine and gearbox mount. I've had before where the rear engine mount was fine but it was the bush on the end of the torque bar (links rear engine mount to subframe) had worn.

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