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Finally have a '6, Spares or repair car now got an MOT!
Thanks, yeah I like to get to a good base I've found when I buy cars. It does feel like a bit of ground hog day with this and the estate as I seem to be doing the same jobs. The jobs most people don't bother with unless it fails an MOT.
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I took the calipers to work today thinking I'd get them rebuilt there but I didn't realise how long it would take to clean them up.

The one slider was a right pain to get out, it took awhile to get it moving and a lot of effort to get it out.

[Image: IMG_20160708_134647_zpsnlrrmnko.jpg]

The back of the carriers and part of the calipers hadn't been painted so it was very corroded in those areas.

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The one on the right was the second tempt. I was surprised at how slow and time consuming sand basting these was.

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I blasted down the slider holes to get all the rust out.

I would have liked to have had them rebuilt today so I could take the car to work to get the clutch done but it looks like I'll be spending tomorrow carry on cleaning these up.

Has anyone had calipers powder coated before? Would powder coating be ok with brake fluid?
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Done a bit more on the calipers today. I was surprised at how quickly they started to rust after blasting them.

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I only had time in my lunch break to blast the yokes and one caliper, after which I hung up for the blast of zinc primer.
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One of the yokes fell so I stuck my foot in the way to brake it's fall. I was hoping it was going to hit my safety boots but go the bottom of my shin.

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One of the wiper caps was missing so bought a set and replaced both.
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On Friday I finished blasting the last caliper, applied the colour, rebuilt them with new seals and sliders and that evening installed them on the car as I was hoping the take the car to work to do the clutch and crank oil seals because of this I rushed getting them on the car and the paint hadn't hardened enough so unfortunately made a bit of a mess of it.

The other thing I wasn't able to do was put my new braided lines on, that'll have to be another day.

[Image: IMG_20160715_114109_zpssskxe8vc.jpg]

They would have looked a lot better with the new discs and pads but I thought I'd leave the orginal ones in and get the full use from them before putting the new in also the pads a Ferodo and I've only bought bog standard Pagid.

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I got some stainless bleed screws to lessen the chance of them getting stuck in the future.

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On Saturday I got up late and by the time I got the car to work the day was getting up to 32c and I was struggling with the heat so decided against tackling the clutch change instead I thought I'd give the cooling system a proper good flush.

I stuck in Holts rad flush for the drive to work and when I got there I dropped the coolant.

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I then connected up some large bore pipes up to the block and used mains pressure to flush the system after removing the thermostat.

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I then disconnected the heater matrix pipes to flush that separately. There was loads of crap on the inside of the pipes.

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After flushing the system I thought I'd have a look at the clutch cable as I thought the routing wasn't great when I was under the car last also the clip that holds the adjuster had rusted away.

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I also stuck a bit of chain lub on the fork shaft where the bushes are. I drilled a small hole in the bottom bush to spray the lub in through. I'm glad I took a look at the cable and lub'ed the bushes as the clutch feels loads better.

Before I did anything on the on clutch the pedal took 38kg of force to push down, it's no wonder my foot ached after driving the car a few times during the week. The Dturbo takes 20kg and my girlfriends 206 HDI with its hydraulic system only takes 10kg! Both cars have had recent clutches.

After I got all the air out the cooling system I had a lovely drive home.[Image: DSCN8066_zps32emwh0h.jpg]
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Standard great attention to detail here!
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Thanks Adam.
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Now that's how to flush a cooling system lol!!
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decent updates on your threads dee...always ones that interest me.
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Thanks guys.

I would have liked to have taken more photos for the caliper rebuild but I was pushed for time.

I'll be doing the rears this week.

I need to get a check list sorted of the bits I need to do because I have so many parts to fit now I'm starting to feel a little snowed under lol.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
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Today I borrowed a vac pump and some gauges from someone at work and at this minute the system is under vacuum.

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The guy I got the gauges off said he'd be surprised to see it go down to -1bar, guess what...

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I take it that's a good sign.

Going to leave it a couple of hours and see if it's lost any vacuum.

It's been an hour and I'm going to check in a bit to see what's changed.
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So after I left the gauges on the car over night and...
[Image: IMG_20160720_082551_zpsclhif0gz.jpg]

The system held a vacuum for 12hrs. I think the slight change was due to temperature change.

The system looks to be sealed and air tight. I just hope the other components related to the aircon are working as I'll be getting the system gassed up in the next few days.

The condenser that I bought will stay in the garage for now lol.
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The car now has working aircon, let see how long it works for.
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Are we placing bets? I go for 3 weeks...
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I'll be happy with 12 months.

Hopefully do the clutch and crank seal tomorrow.

Every now and again it doesn't go in gear well, mainly 1st and reverse so I'm guessing the clutch isn't releasing fully.
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This is looking great mr, nice work on the calipers Smile
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(22-07-2016, 05:05 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: This is looking great mr, nice work on the calipers Smile

Thank you for your kind words.

I wasn't happy that I rushed them in the end, week of prep. I'm thinking of taking them off when I replace the lines and sand them down smooth to get a nice shinny finish.
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Thought I'd do a to do list to clear my mind and make sure I have an idea what to be getting on with.
  • Cat and lambda
  • Handbrake cable
  • Rear number plate
  • rear wiper
  • Grease gear selector ball
  • Remote locking key fix
  • Cam belt water pump
  • Aux belt, crank pulley, idler and tensioner
  • Radiator replace
  • Cooling system flush
  • Thermostat housing replace
  • Radiator clips replaced
  • Fit wiper arm nut cover
  • Front caliper refurbish
  • Fit new clutch cable holder
  • Air conditioning check and gas
  • Fit GTI lower bumper trim (for some reason it's not got one) 24/07/16
  • Replace driver mirror with a china blue one 24/07/16
  • Replace drivers door handle with a china blue one
  • Wishbone bushes
  • Front brake lines replace
  • Replace heater panel
  • Rear axle rebuild
  • Rear caliper rebuild
  • Rear brake lines replace
  • NSF corner fix scrape
  • Polish inlet manifold
  • Fit PTFE manifold gasket
  • Replace clutch, cable, bushes, input shaft oil seal and crank seals
  • Replace drive shaft oil seals
  • Replace rear axle bushes
  • Replace engine mounts
  • Get front seat reupholstered
  • Service engine - oil change, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs
  • Fix rust on chassis leg 
  • Fix rust on chassis tire fitters jacking point
  • Remove engine and box to fix rust in engine bay
  • Fix rust under boot
  • Remove exhaust shields and clean up
  • Remove dents via dent remover type company
  • The windscreen is going cloudy so could do with replacing 
  • Replace tires with better match set
  • Get alloys refurbished
There is probably a load more to add but that it for now.
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Today I was hoping to do the clutch but had another crap night and got up late so thought I'd do something else.

I started with the front bumper lip.

The one I got wasn't in the best condition but it looks better then I thought it would once on.

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While under the car I noticed the aircon pipe that goes to the passenger side of the condenser was leaking. I'll be getting the gas out as soon as I can, hopefully in the morning.

[Image: IMG_20160724_154605_zpsr6e3hucd.jpg]

I tried tightening the large union, it tightened slightly but the leak looks like it's coming from the joint between the condenser connection and the ally pipe. Normally there is a stud on the condenser the pipe connects to but there is a bolt on this. I tried tightening the bolt but it felt like it was going to snap. I'll see how it is in the morning, if leaking I'll get the gas out and I'll have to have a look the these joints.

Also while under the car I took a moment to admire my clean calipers.

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I went to fit the power steering pulley guard but access to the bottom bolt hole wasn't great. I managed to clean the top with a tap but I couldn't get a tap to the bottom one. These guards were on the phase 2 engines and I like the way the look.

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When I take the inlet manifold off I'll clean out the bottom thread so it'll be a lot easier to get a bolt in and I'll leave it off for now.
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The driver mirror had nile blue cap on so I thought I'd swap the mirror unit with one I was sent but the mirror was off a cabby so was different. I removed the cap and just swapped them but unfortunately I broke the mirror on the spare cabby unit.

You can see the difference here, the connector and shape of the base are not the same. [Image: IMG_20160724_173322_zpsltg4rh2j.jpg]

Not much difference in the colour.
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While the cap was off I took this opportunity to lub the pivot mechanism. I used some chain spray, the stuff I have is runny when it comes out then congeals into a grease/gel.

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After this weekend I can say that the GTI is definitely more of a pain to work on then the HDI.

I took me from 9am to 6pm on Saturday and then 9am the Sunday to 2AM Monday morning to replace the clutch, engine mounts, transmission oil seals, crank oil seal with the hockey seals.

The dirty gearbox
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The whole car could have done with a soak in oil, loads of seized nuts, bolts and lot of surface rust on the chassis.

First I removed the battery and then the air box which only the one in three fixings undid the other two broke off.

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With the airbox out the way I thought I'd take a look at the AC leak. The bolt holding the clamp also was seized and snapped off.

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On with the gearbox removal, I went to take the bolts that hold the power steering pipes so I could keep it out the way when dropping the box but the one on the front snapped.

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The box, note the oil.[Image: DSCN8478_zps5zrxozvz.jpg]

How I remove the bottom ball joints.

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I found the O/S outer CV boot needs replacing soon. I had a spare boot but didn't get chance to change it this time.

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Throttle body next all but the bottom bolt came out but that one was a pig. I sprayed it with oil and used an allen bit on a ratchet to get it undone, I was so careful not the round it or snap it.

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Is this much oil normal in the inlet?

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Gasket ripped on removal, but I had a spare.

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Back to the box, I missed there was another bolt right next to the one on the block. Had my socket over it in this photo.

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Also missed the second earth, don't know why they have two earth point next to each other.

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Next the air duct for the battery, this stud also broke. I know what you're thinking "bloody heavy handed twat" but I was very careful not to break them I tried the twist back and forth method with oil but no luck.

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Box off and a very dusty clutch revealed. The pin in the arm was also seized in so I had to bend the arm up to let the fork disengage.

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Bay without box.
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Very dusty bell housing. You can see where the chain spay made it up when I sprayed it the other week.

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A very worn clutch.

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Fly wheel in good condition.

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That was it for Saturday.

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I got the flywheel off to find this.

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I started to get the sump off to replace the hockey seals and crank oil seal. I couldn't hold the engine up from below so suspended it from above on a pole.

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While the oil was draining out the sump I started to give the box a wash and had a closer look at the fork shaft. As you can see the shaft is very rusty and it's no wonder the clutch is heavy with that resistance. I'm surprised it didn't eat the bushes being so rough.

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If I know it was going to be so bad I'd have bought a new one. I would have thought Peugeot wouldn't have chromed the ends that have contact with the bushes, that would have been loads better and would be lighter for a lot longer.

With the box off I was able to rotate the lever so I had access to the back and smashed to pin out with a pin puntch.

Back to the sump, once the oil was out I removed the AC pump. What a pain that was, to do this I had to lift the rad and pull it forward to allow access to the top bolt other wise the pump wouldn't rotate as it was hitting the extra inlet bend that goes to the oil cooler.

With the pump off I removed the sum and to my horror I found a large washer in there.

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View of the bottom without the sump.

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No1 bearing cap and oil seal removed.

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Bearing cap, new and old hockey sticks.

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The shell in the cap looks to be in good condition.

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I used the Haynes tip on replacing the cap without stretching the hockey seals.

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Cap in place with only a couple of mm of the seal poking out.

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Sealant on the cleaned up sump surface.

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The now cleaner and dry box.

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Old and new clutch. There was only 2mm difference in the thickness of the old and new.

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Clutch in place.

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Cleaner box back in.

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The fluids were replaced, new oil filter on the engine and also the bottom and gearbox mounts replaced. Going to do the top hopefully one of the evenings.

Hopefully the CV boot before it fails and the wishbone bushes are next on the list.
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That's a lot of work for a single weekend, honestly well done there!! Smile

(Also pretty pleased it's not just me that snaps things on rusty old Peugeots despite best efforts not to!) lol
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The air box nuts and threaded rod sections are utter shite.

To be fair, a lot of the threaded rod sections on the underside of the 306 are. I sheared one of the fuel tank strap studs and a number of the heat shield ones. I will get new threaded sections welded on before she goes to be blasted.

But good work, as said, thats a lot for a weekend, especially without some major tools.
Cherry Red Rallye - Full on OEM resto.....
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Well done to do all that. Presumably on your own? Brilliant thread for updates. Pictures speak a thousand words an all that.

What sealant did you use on your sump?
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Thanks guys, I was getting pissed off with myself for taking so long to get it done. I once replaced the clutch on the red Dturbo in 2 hours lol but nothing on the is seized so everything came off with ease.

Got say a thank you to Cully as I messaged him when I got a bit nervous about taking the sump off and replacing the hockey seals.

Yes, I did all the work on my own. It does get a bit lonely working on the car at work but I can't do this sort of stuff at home on the sloping drive or in the narrow road outside the house.

I would have liked to have taken more photos but time was an issue.

With the clutch fork I clean the rust off and tried to polish up the areas that make contact with the bush to make that movement as smooth as possible.

I need to get some plastic rivets for to replace the ones for the arch liner. What do you guys use?

I used V-Tech Red Gasket Sealant Vital Red RTV

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I wish I got something as a cartage and used a gun to apply it as it took some squeezing but it seems ok at the moment, time will tell.
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Lunch time update

Thought I'd replace the last engine mount. I left this one as I know it was easy to get to later in the week.

New and old mount
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Good to see the mount cradle not being cracked.
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Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
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I measured the force to apply the clutch and it's now the same as my Dturbo at 20kg. It feels lighter though as it might be smoother.

I've still to swap the cable but the one on it has been changed recently by the previous owner so I doubt it making much difference.

The only reason I bought another was because of the outer being damaged by being on the driveshaft at some point.

I was glad to see no pools of oil under car lol I always get nervous about disturbing oil seals thinking they might not go on right and start leaking worse then they did before.
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Get the engine mount chocks fitted on that LHS mount to stop the cradle from going. Smile
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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Good idea, I'll sort something out.
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Couldn't do any work on the car last week as I was spannering at a kart race meeting up in the Lake District.

Today was the only day this weekend I could work on the car. I decided to put a bit of paint on the ball joint shields as it doesn't take long for them to rust.

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The plan was to try and sort out the broken stud in the condenser and replace the wishbone bushes.

As the paint was drying on the shields I started taking the front end apart.

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Bottom bummer bolts had seized in the retain clips so I drilled the heads off and I've got some nickel plated clips and stainless bolts to replace them with.

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When I got the condenser out I noticed most was in good condition but there was a small patch that didn't look good and had a slight leak, you can see the green dye.

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The PAS cooler has been cable tied on for some reason and it looks to be in good condition, I think it must have been replace at some stage.

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The plug to the fans looked good with no green corrosion that you normally see.

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I got access to the inside of the chassis leg and I was able to get out the bit that snapped off the other week when I removed the airbox.

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No wonder it snapped.

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I didn't bring the spare condenser with me so I stuck the old one back on and put the front back together.

Next I started on the wishbones.

The front bushes had it so I replaced them with powerflex ones.

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The rear P bushes were the worst I've ever seen.

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I found out the bottom ball joints aren't that great ether so I've got some on order. This one the little boot has been wearing on the shield.

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Wishbone with new Febi P bush and Powerflex front, ball joint to be replaced next week.

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After dinner I took the font end off again to replace the condenser. This time I took the bumper, lights and slam panel off in one go. This was the first time I'd done it like this.

[Image: IMG_20160814_202258_zpszd2hgu0h.jpg]

The new condenser was a pain to fit as it was all bent out of shape and took a lot of tweaking to fit.

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It was dark by the time I'd finished, can't believe the nights are getting longer again.

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Good update, thats quite a lot of work.

The clips that hold the pas pipe on are utter shite. Bad design and sit the front where they get wet and covered in crap. Seize solid. Mine all sheared. Nfp now for all of them. I need to get my parts man on the case.

Suspect your front end has been apart before. Pretty certain the routing of the bonnet release cable is wrong. Think it runs through the slam panel. It's a proper arse getting it back through, hence why I think yours has been routed the way it has.

Ball joint heatshields - cant believe they are still on there! Only one left in my Rallye. I bought a new pair from eBay for £3

Just looked again, you appear to have two cables going to the bonnet release?
Cherry Red Rallye - Full on OEM resto.....
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second cable will be the alarm bonnet switch on the slam panel Wink
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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