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Peugeot 306 S16 PH1
#31
(13-09-2016, 09:11 PM)miles Wrote: The headlight relay is in the fuse box under the bonnet, common issue with a few 306 relays is they overheat and the contacts don;t make contact anymore or melt

Ohh, so probably they removed that. Because that green you see on the picture, that is the relays to the headlight but they dont seem OEM they were mounted next to the ABS pump, I can take a pic to the fuse box under the bonnet to see what is what. Because i dont have a manual to my s16 :\
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#32
So, I got my car yesterday from my mechanic, I bought the parts for the job but I don't know how to properly mount it.

- Timing Belt, Water pump and the tensioners
- Acessories Belt and Bearings
- Brakes, refaced the old brakes and install some OEM Ferodos pads
- Bottom Engine mount was craked
- Oil and filters
- I bought some 10w50 oil ( Fuchs Race Pro S ) Can stand the high heat of the engine, but it's a thicker oil, when warm it gets better

Leave your opinion about the Oil, since i'm just starting now.

Next step:

- Repairing the roof, beacuse of the rust
- Installing a "new" sunroof
- Installing some B8's Sprint, i don't know about the rear actually, you guys could help me with that ?
- 4 Piston Brembos
- Braided Lines
- Probably some 16" wheels and tyres
- Doing a straight pipe with a Vibrant Back box, but i never heard a peugeot with that :\


Sorry but I have no photos of the job :\ I'll try to get some pics of the car.
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#33
Some photos joining about the service:

Timing belt

[Image: 0Su7ZwT.jpg]

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milage:

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Some used parts arrived:

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found the problem with the actually sun roof, but now the sunroof doesn't fully open, something wrong because if you opened the sunroof he goes kinda of sideways

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I'll keep this update as I can.
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#34
Sad 
New sad update

Other night I was going with some friends on a hill climb, i was a bit on it. The Car started to overheat and i stoped on the side of the road. Let the car cool down and open the radiator cap. (There is a post that asks for a Aluminum Radiator for a S16) Turns out, when i filled the water, water drips on the ground on the bigger scale. Called the road side assistance and drop on a mechanic. He looked at it the next morning and found this:

[Image: oEQxoUm.jpg]

And had a confirmed head gasket failure. So left the car there to make a rebuild on the engine, rotating valves painting the engine compartment, reparing the roof.

I'll try to take pics of the entire progress to show you guys

Better luck next time :\ Dodgy
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#35
Hello guys,

Another update:

To the noise i've heard was this cap on the radiator:

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Don't ask me how Rofl Rofl

The head work, tbh the head was lose, the head gasket was fine, and the head and engine blocks inside was everthing almost new.

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Sand blasted the rocker cover, and will be painted black, like the original. I don't know if i paint the strips in Red or leave it aluminium.

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#36
New update, the car is done, well on the engine part at least

New Radiator: Couldn't find one in alluminum :\

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Head:

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Painted Engine Bay

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Head in place:

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Painted valve cover:

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And it's home and ready Blush Blush Blush Heart

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Tell me what do you guys think of the car? Does the engine and bay look better now ?



Coolant never looked so greeen, it was always brown xD After a few miles I'll change the coolant again
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#37
Looks good Smile
Liking the commitment to repairing it. I just did a sprint day in my diablo phase 1 today.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#38
(30-10-2016, 06:32 PM)RetroPug Wrote: Looks good Smile
Liking the commitment to repairing it. I just did a sprint day in my diablo phase 1 today.

I'm liking the commitment to restore him to mint condition, but my wallet doesn't like it very much :| Yours looks lovely as you know. After the sprint day did you do anything else to the car ? What did you do to prepare it for a track day for example.
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#39
Hello !

Just an update and feedback about my S16, the key word is RUST !

The underside of the rear seats:

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Prep work and paint:
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And the floor side:

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All this because of a leaky sunroof  Undecided

Give me your feedback about the project !

Thank you
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#40
As well as the sunroof, check that the rear lights are sealing correctly, and the rear window seals are properly seated. Smile
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#41
(11-12-2016, 10:13 AM)RetroPug Wrote: As well as the sunroof, check that the rear lights are sealing correctly, and the rear window seals are properly seated. Smile

Well, you gave me a nice help ! I'm sure that my rear left light is getting water inside the light, that means that will get inside the car too ?

My car temperature while sitting on traffic, is that normal ? Or probably the temp sensor is kinda broken ? the gauge never hit 110


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#42
Seems high to me, I'd expect it to sit around 90
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#43
Mine's getting to that. Often sits on 85° then sits up to 105° then the fans bring it down to 90°. D doesn't seem right to me either.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
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#44
Well, mine if you are crussing normaly sits around 85/90ºC then stopped in traffic it goes to 97ºC i would think, then the fan kicks in and it goes back to 95ºC around that. The strange thing is that with the laser temperature gun, the pipes are normal like 90ºC.

I did the headwork and headgasket because it had to much pressure on the cooling, so i would expect to be normal now... the pipes are not rock solid after that you can press/squeeze, they are a bit hard but you can still press on it. I've changed the radiator too the fans are kicking at the right temperature.

So I would say that is a dodgy sensor ? or gauge ? Or something else ?
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#45
(18-12-2016, 10:38 AM)antman70 Wrote: Mine's getting to that. Often sits on 85° then sits up to 105° then the fans bring it down to 90°. D doesn't seem right to me either.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

But, when yours sit up to 105º ir normal ? Beacuse mine, I think is doing the same thing on the gauge, because it never reached 110ºC
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#46
Don't believe the dash temperature gauges for love nor money. They're crap!

Unless you install a proper temperature gauge, you'll never know the true reading!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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#47
Temperatures seem normal, particularly as you live in Portugal and not shitty England!

You could change the sensor if you wished, bu the gauges aren't accurate anyway. The reading on them can also be affected by earths and the battery being bad etc. Make sure the fans are cutting in though.

To seal your rear lights, try using some vaseline on the seals, they normally dry out and go hard with age and the vaseline can soften them up again.

Finally, if you really want to get rid of cabin leaks, check under the wiper motor and hoover away all the leaves and horrible crap that collects there, it blocks the drain hole and then water seeps into the cabin. I'm not sure if this is the case on left hand driver cars but worth checking anyway. Also, get an airline down the drain holes for the sunroof and blow the debris out so they don't block up.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#48
(21-12-2016, 09:44 AM)RetroPug Wrote: Temperatures seem normal, particularly as you live in Portugal and not shitty England!

You could change the sensor if you wished, bu the gauges aren't accurate anyway. The reading on them can also be affected by earths and the battery being bad etc. Make sure the fans are cutting in though.

To seal your rear lights, try using some vaseline on the seals, they normally dry out and go hard with age and the vaseline can soften them up again.

Finally, if you really want to get rid of cabin leaks, check under the wiper motor and hoover away all the leaves and horrible crap that collects there, it blocks the drain hole and then water seeps into the cabin. I'm not sure if this is the case on left hand driver cars but worth checking anyway. Also, get an airline down the drain holes for the sunroof and blow the debris out so they don't block up.

Hmmm, so how i can check the earths ? The fans are cutting in. I'll probably try to install a gauge or changing the speedometer for an s16/gti6 one
I'll try to do my best rebuild the vaseline.

I've blow the debri with an air compressor, i'll try to put a wire down the drain carefully. I've sealed the sunroof with silicone so it doesn't get water inside then reparing the sunroof is the next spec.
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#49
Unbolt each earth you can find and clean the contact area up with sandpaper, then bolt it back down.

I do think your temperatures are normal though.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#50
(26-12-2016, 10:10 AM)RetroPug Wrote: Unbolt each earth you can find and clean the contact area up with sandpaper, then bolt it back down.

I do think your temperatures are normal though.

Well now, before the head work the temperature gauge never reaches 110ºC so its fine i would guess.

On the other head, the first speed of the fan is not kicking in, I had this problem before but was sorted out but now probably is the relay broken. I'll try to make that the 2nd speed kicking where the 1st speed was, to make the things simple right ?
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#51
Some great work in this! Those rear sets are so rusty! The only time I have seen ones worse than that are the 306 seats in my speedboat!
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#52
(12-01-2017, 04:27 PM)Eeyore Wrote: Some great work in this! Those rear sets are so rusty! The only time I have seen ones worse than that are the 306 seats in my speedboat!

Wow, mine are that bad hun ? Rofl Rofl

So i've bought these:

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They are in good shape, just need some paint or clear coat
I'll see if they don't squeal with some changes and pray to god Rofl Rofl

I'll try to keep this updated
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#53
I'm thinking making a cold air intake, how should I do that because in Portugal minimal engine modifications isn't allowed. You guys have some pics that I can look at it ? Or ideas ?
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#54
If you want a good noise, an open cone would be good, but if they are not allowed it will be very obvious, if you want good power and clean, cool air then the standard intake is probably best.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#55
(16-01-2017, 07:59 PM)RetroPug Wrote: If you want a good noise, an open cone would be good, but if they are not allowed it will be very obvious, if you want good power and clean, cool air then the standard intake is probably best.


I'll try something like that with some black tubbing, and I probably need a Catch Can.

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Should I change the master cylinder too ?

What about the vibrant muffler on a 306 ?
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#56
Bought the Xantia V6 discs:


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About the caliper it self, can I scrub the lacquer, and put 2/3 layers and it will be mint ? Or I have to paint it too ?

I'll probably do a cold air intake with an K&N filter.

What is the best way to make power on this engine ? Besides exhaust and cold air intake and gti6 intake and injectors.

What is the best back box for this engine ? For sound I don't wanted to be too loud but with a good sound. I cannot find Magnex back box as I wanted  Speechless
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#57
And another question, with brembos I have to change the master ciclynder for another one ?
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#58
Those calipers will probably be fine with a rub down and a couple of new coats of lacquer, hard to tell from the pics though. Your current master cylinder should work, but will probably end up with quite a long pedal.

Magnexs are pretty loud from memory, i don't know what to suggest as an alternative, i don't really know much on the different exhaust brands.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#59
(30-03-2017, 05:53 AM)Poodle Wrote: Those calipers will probably be fine with a rub down and a couple of new coats of lacquer, hard to tell from the pics though. Your current master cylinder should work, but will probably end up with quite a long pedal.

Magnexs are pretty loud from memory, i don't know what to suggest as an alternative, i don't really know much on the different exhaust brands.

I'm buying high temp lacquer for the caliper, will be in mint condition ! I've PAGID Pads with them if I get too much squeal I probably going for genuine ones.

About the exhaust, i'm doing a straight 63mm from the manifold to a supersprint back box. I quite like those, and it was a good deal.


I have a question about vaccum hose on the S16

What I have is this :

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Is this correct ? I've seen in other threads the vaccum hose are in diferent places, I don't have the metal piping though.

I have a hesitation between 3k and 4k revs after that is full power, probably an avac issue... I have to check that too.

I'm asking this because when im almost stoping and I push the clutch in the car sometimes drop revs and stalls. I'm just making sure that is the ICV valve before I buy a new one.

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#60
It's been a long time that I didn't post anything

So in the meantime I've changed the ACAV valve because it was broken, changed the vaccum pipes all good.

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And this came in the mail the other day  Inlove  Inlove

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And I need help what I can do here ? : I didn't want to paint the whole thing   Confused

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