807 110 hdi DPF

[ct-hdi]

Mate of mine is having issues with his 807 hdi 110. DPF issues. Basically what I'm wondering is if I remove the exhaust and smash the dpf out will I have to alter anything else? Mapping or anything? Disconnect solenoids or anything? 

Also he has a 2.2 that I've dropped the engine out of. Thinking about de-egr and de-dpfing that while it's out. Would that need mapping and any thing altering aswell?

Any help appreciated.

[Toms306]

Yes it'll need mapping out.

Edit - surely 110bhp isnt enough in a heavy 807!?

[ct-hdi]

Gutless and shit. Even more so with a dpf problem

[Toms306]

Just buy a faster one imo...

[Redordead89]

I too have this engine in my 307 SW se and it also has dpf issues among some others!
I've said this before on this forum usually to boos and disbelief from other readers as its not a fix but as a temporary reprieve unplugging the maf might just restore some kind of driver relief from severe slow boredom!
It does on mine as when the maf is plugged in on top of the housing I have no boost however when it's unplugged boost in al it's lack of glory is restored!
I'm guessing vacuum solenoid or similar in my case but worth a try as a stop gap for your mate until you get the fix! "if it works"
Good luck hope it helps in the meantime!

[bashbarnard]

It will run with dpf smashed out will just throw on an eml. No idea if it will go into limp mode. What some clever dick really needs to do is figure out a way to tell the sensors they are reading different pressures making it think ones there. Maybe a resistor. Could earn a fortune selling them. Lol.

Best idea is get it mapped out though.

[Toms306]

The problem with not mapping them is that some (I know the DV6 is) are mapped with a failsafe regen every 500 miles or so, on top of the pressure activated regens. Obviously it causes immense heat when theres no soot or DPF core for it to work against and is likely to break/melt stuff tbh. Hopefully the regen would fail when it senses overheating but that assumes your temp sensor works ok.

It seems to be luck (?) whether you get limp mode or not, my experience is only with the Focii (both DV6 and 16v DW10) and some had had limp from DPF gutting, others haven't. Though I don't know how carefully the ones that didn't drove, mine only seems to throw DPF fault codes above 3k rpm currently.

[pro_steve]

The DPF delete requires the DPF to be fully hollowed out and then it needs to be deleted from the software. For my DPF delete you need to leave the temperature sensor unplugged, and I'll also delete that out of the ECU. Whilst you're at it you want to figure out the cause of the DPF blockage, was the car boosting properly before hand or was it just driven very slowly?

I would recommend deleting the EGR at the same time, and double checking the turbo electro valve is operating correctly, but you can't really do this until the DPF is out and the car is out of limp mode.

[Toms306]

When you say fully hollowed, do you mean remove the cat as well? (theyre separate but in the same can on mine). Or just don't bash a small hole through the dpf like I've seen before? That one did cause limp interestingly lol. Also, what do you recommend for the eolys tank, unplug it or just leave it?

[pro_steve]

Yes I would just take it all out, drilling a hole through it is a bit silly.

The additive tank can stay connected on the 2.0 with EDC15.

[welshpug]

110 is enough really, its a van with windows and quite low geared, the vans use a de-tuned 136 engine running at 110, plenty of torque, not sure if this is a 16v too?

[Ruan]

110 is enough really, its a van with windows and quite low geared, the vans use a de-tuned 136 engine running at 110, plenty of torque, not sure if this is a 16v too?

The earlier 110 RHM/RHW/RHT 16v with EDC15 is quite a bit different to the 136 RHR with SID803. All 16v, but the RHR is the engine that was joint developed with Ford - distinguishable by the plastic inlet manifold.

The earlier 110 16v is closer to the 2.2 HDi - the heads are interchangeable - the 136 RHR engine sits at 15* vs 30*, has the crank sensor behind the bottom pulley etc, it's the same basic design, but another step on.

The really late ones had a RHK (iirc) which is the same as an RHR 136 detuned, but I've barely seen any of them, mostly in Expert vans iirc. You could also get them with an RHR - but again, barely see any of them, the most popular is the RHW.