Bosch pump rebuild

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Bosch pump rebuild
#1
anyone got a link to a kit as ive found a few different ones on ebay also is it worth doing any mods whiles the pumps apart?
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#2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/271946722719 


This is the kit to buy Smile and in regards to mods a gov mod and an LDA grind will be a good thing to do
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#3
ahh thats the one i had in my basket. cheers does it include evvverything before i start pulling bits apart
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#4
(14-09-2015, 07:41 PM)blinkyeatu Wrote: ahh thats the one i had in my basket. cheers does it include evvverything before i start pulling bits apart

Everything apart from the shaft seal ring 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/271549784371
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#5
I bought mine from Darwen Diesels which supplied the full kit including shaft seal.
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#6
You can get full Bosch kits from Parkinsons/Motorpoint for 14 quid
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#7
What sort of devil sells a kit with one part missing?
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#8
(16-09-2015, 02:31 AM)ozpug Wrote: What sort of devil sells a kit with one part missing?

Ve pumps come with different shaft sizes, so you're buying the one for your application rather than have a part missing
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#9
Better off with viton if you run veg. Don't know where you can get a full viton kit though. The O ring for the head is on eBay.
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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#10
so had the leaver snap and bashbarnard send me a new one.
i rebuild it all put it in my car connected all the lines etc started it and nothing.
im getting fuel to the line/injector unions but not with any pressure so its not firing ive cranked it for ages but nothing.
the primer goes hard but then fairly quickly looses all pressure i cant see any fuel leaking anywhere and not really sure where air might be getting in ( i did replace the fuel filter housing lid but its all tight)
i did read of this if any ones got the time to weigh in http://reallymeansounds.com/forum/thread...mp.153793/ really dont wont to have to take the pump of and strip down to find out if its something simple. cheeers guys Smile
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#11
turns out i just needed to fill the pump with fuel :|
but now it some times fire but as soon as i stop cranking it dies...thoughts??
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#12
Air leak maybe. Bled the injectors. Got the pipes on correct way. Vane pump free when you rebuilt. All possibilities
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#13
vane pump was free and clean when i rebuilt.
pipes i cant see any other way they can go.
ive crack all the lines and got diesel squirting out.
maybe an air leak not sure where from though as cant hear anything and primers staying hard now and theres no fuel leaking.
my battery died now so gunna get that charged up then try again with a fully charged batter as i think i drained most of it last night.
it sounded so promising every couple of attempts but dies after 10 sec if that also puts out abit of white smoke.
the only thing i did do between last night no success and this morning alittle bit of success was to turn the max fuel up a turn. should i do it more? could it be todo with the throttle position and max fuel?
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#14
If it was previously lucas the pump lines wont match up. The one on left hand side of pump closest to the cambelt is in if that helps
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Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#15
using bosch lines and injectors and definitely got the fuel lines the right way round
achh ill just wait till the battterys charged see how it goes then maybe stick a video up.
cheers though
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#16
Ok. Just one last thing you have checked the stop solenoid is switching?
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Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#17
i did think of this.
i can hear it clicking and it does start (not every time and not straight away)
but would it be possible that when the keys being released the solenoids loosing power? or could it be due to the fact the battery was so dead?
the other thing is the car ran not great but it did run before i took the pump off
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#18
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSt_0hSojV4
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#19
have you adjusted the fuel screw back in to where it was before you removed the ufo bit? also lever back on in correct poistion as they are very sensitive to being moved
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Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#20
yea basically when putting the head back on i unwound it 7 turns then wound it in 7 but i MIGHT of miss counted 1 turn along the way so tried it at 7 and 8 turns in, no difference.
which lever the one you sent? it should be it was lined up in the collar and the triangle screws are in. is there any other way it could be out of line?
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#21
no the throttle lever. where it sits on the top splines. if its back a spline it wont run right. may even cut like this. some people even knock them back a spline or two like myself so you can run the injection duration screw a bit more to get more fuel. knock it a spline forward and try it imo
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Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#22
Yea i buggered that a long long time ago but I've put it back to where I thought it should go ( I know that's stupidly vague :/ but I did try starting it with the throttle open abit which surely would be equivalent?? But it made no difference
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#23
Try winding the fuel screw in more turns. I had similar when I rebuilt mine and this cured it.
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#24
okie doke ill give that a go
ill also try advancing it
is there anywhere air would get in but fuel wouldnt leak out of because in all honesty i didnt replace the all the seals i was sent the wrong ones as i found out near the end and i really really didnt want to wait for the new ones, strip it down and rebuilt it again so i thought i would just wing it Sad *idiot*
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#25
I'd put a volt meter on the stop solenoid and see what's going on there first. Or just take the spring and plunger out to completely rule it out.
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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#26
Just posted on fb, but have someone pump the grenade while its running, if it makes any difference then post a video / your vane pump is out.

Have you tried removing spring and plunger from solenoid to rule out weak coil?

Assume you have tried motoring it with full throttle / played with fuel screw? (Stay in car at all times incase goes wrong and need to stall it out)
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#27
ell well interesting development. first of all i found the primer does loose pressure but only over a long while. secondly i turned the max fuel up 2 turns and jammed the throttle open pictured (which i thought was a fair amount).... started it fired then died when i let go of the key, tried it again but carried on cranking, it started and ran the same as in the video apart from the there was abit more of a black tint to the smoke and the revs started creeping up. turned the fuel down one turn and kept the throttle the same and it ran as video'd. then tried it again 1 turn in and throttle opened abit more and ran the same but revs started to creep up again. so it seems much more fuel and itll run away, also for how far the throttles opened it seems to not idle very high which might explain why it doesn't start normally which does make me wonder if i might have put the collar the wrong way round as i read in a post one sides got a whole on it and having it a certain way round would mean it didn't really cover the relief point on the shaft....... as for the some and the lumpy idle im not really sure
[attachment=25420]
the second time i moved the spanner across abit more opening it abit more i also wound the stop screw out almost all the way out and when i pressed it abit more i maxed the throttle out internally
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#28
i dont know why the pics arnt displaying but hers the video https://youtu.be/yiwnkpLBfdU
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#29
maybe worth checking with a test light or multimeter you have a constant live to stop solenoid with ignition on as it sounds like you loosing the live feed when you let go of the key from the start position hence it will run when you carry on cranking the engine.
(you need to find a live 12v wire with the ignition in the on position and also make sure it stays 12v when you stop cranking the engine)
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#30
Have you actually checked the timing pins go in? Looks like you've timed the pump up wrong.
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