PCD Redrilling

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
PCD Redrilling
#1
Hi All,
I know redrilling a PCD into a disc is quite common but i was just wondering what about elongating the bolt holes? Basically I'm looking at some new discs which are 4x100mm and obviously i need 4x108mm. Is there any reason why i can't have a machine shop just elongate the holes? I can't see any reason why not as its only the clamping force between the wheel and hub and the centre bore that holds the disc where it should be?
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
#2
Surely you would have the get the centre machined to right centre bore aswell?? Cant see a problem doing that though. Would it weaken the disc at all though
[Image: av5ym8.jpg]
Reply
Thanks given by:
#3
Only the machining op. It's easier just to drill a new hole on pillar drill than elongate with an end mill/slot drill.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
Reply
Thanks given by:
#4
As its still 4 to 4 I'd just have them re-drilled in between. It's when you have to try and work 5 around 4 that becomes difficult lol.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#5
centre mark and re drill them yourself with new holes easy job if you have acsess to a good pilar drill

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

Reply
Thanks given by:
#6
(18-07-2015, 03:39 PM)Toms306 Wrote: As its still 4 to 4 I'd just have them re-drilled in between.  It's when you have to try and work 5 around 4 that becomes difficult lol.

^this TBH.
Welding and fabrication projects undertaken, contact me for more information.

Reply
Thanks given by:
#7
I've definitely seen it done in a vice and cordless drill lol wasn't me though
306oc Chat Wrote:15:30: Toms306 - :Genuinely thought it was gonna explode when I was playing with Sam
22:57: SRowell - :wtf why didnt you try harder to make me come!
[Image: connorsig.jpg]
Reply
Thanks given by:
#8
being a machinist by trade, i would strongly dis-advise elongating the holes, you will create stress points. if you can, always drill into good solid sections, and as it has already been mentioned, drilling the new holes at 90 degree offset to the ones already there is the best option. As long as your good with a drill, there is no need for a pillar drill. A pillar drill only allows for almost perfect straightness, it does nothing for wobble or drift, which you may get on a normal hand drill Smile .

Disks are normally made from cast iron, which is self lubricating as long as you dont overspeed the drill, or try and drill a too big hole from the get go. Smile (by self lubricating, i mean for drilling and machining, if it is for a brake surface, we are not allowed to use oil based coolants, as the cast is porous and soaks like a sponge. The swarf is almost graphite in texture and it is this that self lubricates)
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

Reply
Thanks given by:
#9
Yeah what insomniac said, and you're gonna need some decent drill bits too Niall Wink
[Image: 9fa12c59-0c3d-4413-968d-6a7840ff068f.jpg]
Stage 1 HDi DTurbo Diablo 5dr, "Dee-Dee"
Reply
Thanks given by:
#10
(06-08-2015, 10:40 PM)insomaniac45 Wrote: being a machinist by trade, i would strongly dis-advise elongating the holes, you will create stress points. if you can, always drill into good solid sections, and as it has already been mentioned, drilling the new holes at 90 degree offset to the ones already there is the best option. As long as your good with a drill, there is no need for a pillar drill. A pillar drill only allows for almost perfect straightness, it does nothing for wobble or drift, which you may get on a normal hand drill Smile .

Disks are normally made from cast iron, which is self lubricating as long as you dont overspeed the drill, or try and drill a too big hole from the get go. Smile (by self lubricating, i mean for drilling and machining, if it is for a brake surface, we are not allowed to use oil based coolants, as the cast is porous and soaks like a sponge. The swarf is almost graphite in texture and it is this that self lubricates)


Could you explain what stress points elongating the holes would make?

I do not agree with your comments about the pillar drill at all, if you centre drill first, use a correctly sharpened drill and have the job fastened down positively you will have very little to no 'wobble' or 'drift', fantastically accurate in the right hands.

With the sizing not being critical on the bolt hole I would always centre drill and then drill straight out to size, no pilot hole as they can often cause more problems. I personally wouldn't attempt this with a pistol drill.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#11
Or
(06-08-2015, 10:40 PM)insomaniac45 Wrote: being a machinist by trade, i would strongly dis-advise elongating the holes, you will create stress points.

Being a mechanical engineer by trade,  no it won't. A slot would work no differently to a hole under the effect of a rotational force perpendicular to the normal plane. It's not exactly a figure of 8. Smile

There should be no interface to speak of when slotting correctly if that's what you infer. If that's the case, I'd find a better machinist. Drilling the holes 90 degrees out is fine, but I answered the question Niall asked.

Niall, it's easy to do either. Redrilling is plenty quick. I had 100 done during a Rover group buy.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
Reply
Thanks given by:
#12
Well guys, I'm not dead yet. The holes were elongated by my local machine shop very easily. I would also like to point out that the wheel bolts do nothing to stop the disc spinning under heavy braking. Its purely the clamping force between the hub and wheel which holds the disc in place so there will be no stress put on the bolt holes. At least there shouldn't be!

Now i just need to get them fitted.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
Reply
Thanks given by:
#13
(07-08-2015, 08:07 AM)allanallen Wrote: Could you explain what stress points elongating the holes would make?

I do not agree with your comments about the pillar drill at all, if you centre drill first, use a correctly sharpened drill and have the job fastened down positively you will have very little to no 'wobble' or 'drift', fantastically accurate in the right hands.

With the sizing not being critical on the bolt hole I would always centre drill and then drill straight out to size, no pilot hole as they can often cause more problems. I personally wouldn't attempt this with a pistol drill.

wtf. i did a whole reply.... and its gone Sad

But. The stress points will be created at the flat spots that are created from elongating the holes.

And yes, a pillar drill in the right hands, is a very accurate machine. But a pistol drill in the same hands as some one who knows what they are doing can be just as accurate. i do agree, every hole really needs a centre drill first, as that alone helps prevent drift. But wobble is all done to how the drill is ground. I am not knocking peoples skills in any way.

I do have to apologize for jumping the gun, as the elongations are only 4mm a side, which is not a lot at all. I do have a terrible habit of over analyzing things, and making solutions over complicated.

But, you have done it now Niall, and i am sure it will be absolutely fine. Smile


Tony.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

Reply
Thanks given by:
#14
No real issue with elongating the brake disc holes tbh, drilling new ones is easier tbh, but mine had great big slots in 'em:

[Image: DiscMaxOffset-1.jpg]
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#15
Worlds shitest ash tray.... Well done Phil! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by:
#16
those are nice disks. Smile

Wavy, i bet they almost make the car endo. Smile
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

Reply
Thanks given by:
#17
(09-08-2015, 06:41 PM)allanallen Wrote: Worlds shitest ash tray.... Well done Phil! Tongue

They're even worse after 2 years on the shelf in a leaky garage Big Grin
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
Reply
Thanks given by:
#18
(09-08-2015, 07:43 PM)Rippthrough Wrote:
(09-08-2015, 06:41 PM)allanallen Wrote: Worlds shitest ash tray.... Well done Phil! Tongue

They're even worse after 2 years on the shelf in a leaky garage Big Grin


Worlds rustiest door stop?  Wink
Reply
Thanks given by:
#19
Think I might use them for book ends for my small magazine collection:

[Image: ConditionandAmount1.jpg]
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
Reply
Thanks given by:


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)