Bosch Pump inquires..

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Bosch Pump inquires..
#1
Anyway, I have two semi-ecu controlled bosch pumps, and I know there just good for a heavy paper weight.. But, one of them is slightly different to the other? One came of a D9B engine and the other of a DHX engine. The D9B engine has the different semi-ecu pump to the other, theres no cap on the back of it, and it has a max fuel screw? And I was talking to the man that I bought the engine off, and the injectors have never been changed, and theres no wire coming out of any of them? So i was wondering is it just a standard bosch pump in fancy dress or maybe its just one of the first semi-ecu pumps? For I need a pump for my 11mm head and was wondering would it be any good? Pictures anyhow; D9B Pump

[Image: IMG_1045_zpsnbjkiep1.jpg]

Max fuel screw;

[Image: IMG_1048_zpsonrkseeb.jpg]

Serial Numbers;

[Image: IMG_1051_zpsqhjonyrz.jpg]

DHX Pump;

[Image: IMG_1054_zpsanf80ou4.jpg]

Serial Numbers;

[Image: IMG_1053_zpsmcqiu9vp.jpg]

Thanks anyway!
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#2
It's not about the injectors, it's about the internal advance iirc
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#3
Ah right yes, I know its not about the injectors, was the idea of the semi-ecu not to reduce diesel knock while cold and try to make the xud more efficient? Anyway, theyll likely end up in the corner of the shed for the scrap heap..
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#4
I think the internal advance is controlled by ipp on the old pumps, where as this is ecu controlled, meaning it won't make proper power or combustion higher up the revs, unless I'm wrong lol

Quite a few bits are ok for spares though.
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#5
look under where the injection lines come out of the pump - under the high pressure head. If you see two wires going into a solenoid, in-line with the axis of the pump, it's got a timing solenoid.

This gives maximum advance without any signal, so won't be doing your HG any favours (it's known to kill HG on Rovers with this setup if left faulty). It's controlled by a PWM signal, and can be controlled far better than any mechanical timing advance.

Retrofitting an ECU that can control this usually only takes a few wires, and can give much better economy and power response Smile
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#6
(31-01-2015, 06:36 PM)Chairchild Wrote: look under where the injection lines come out of the pump - under the high pressure head. If you see two wires going into a solenoid, in-line with the axis of the pump, it's got a timing solenoid.

This gives maximum advance without any signal, so won't be doing your HG any favours (it's known to kill HG on Rovers with this setup if left faulty). It's controlled by a PWM signal, and can be controlled far better than any mechanical timing advance.

Retrofitting an ECU that can control this usually only takes a few wires, and can give much better economy and power response Smile

Pwm you say eh? Hmmm, prob not too difficult to hook up to the arduino...
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#7
12v signal - quite a low frequency (same as required by an N75 solenoid IIRC)

Easy enough to set up 100% at idle, and a linear ramp down to 0% at max rpm - then just tweak from there Smile The Rovers that have this pump, only really reference coolant temp, and engine speed
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#8
(31-01-2015, 08:19 PM)Chairchild Wrote: 12v signal - quite a low frequency (same as required by an N75 solenoid IIRC)

Easy enough to set up 100% at idle, and a linear ramp down to 0% at max rpm - then just tweak from there Smile The Rovers that have this pump, only really reference coolant temp, and engine speed

Could well be a winner that, I'll keep it in mind, good info there mr Smile
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