Audio setup - help

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Audio setup - help
#61
When fitting my speakers I just used a junior hack saw and cut through the metal and bent it all back lol :/ not the neatest job buts it's hidden anyway so oh well haha.

Crossovers need to be wired like this.

Headunit ----> Crossover Input ----> Tweeter (In tweeter output) and the 6.5" speaker connects to the woofer output
                                             
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#62
(28-12-2014, 12:04 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Is it the magnet that's hitting the metal that's stopping it sitting right?

No its just how fat the speaker is like the bit between the magnet and the face of the speaker is too big to fit through the whole, it does goes through, just not quite enough for it to sit level
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#63
Did you cut a lot of the plastic off the door card to get more clearance? Any photos of how much you cut off?
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#64
(28-12-2014, 09:06 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Did you cut a lot of the plastic off the door card to get more clearance? Any photos of how much you cut off?

I haven't cut anything yet mate 
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#65
You might be lucky and might not need to cut any metal.

Did you rewire the crossovers?
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#66
Just cut the plastic, should be able to do it with a Stanley knife, it's quite thin the piece that needs cutting Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#67
Okay So today I decided to fit my speakers properly after I done a few things wrong, thanks for the help DeeTurbo, So I got rid of all the factory fitted material

[Image: IMG_0909_zps2b15f5ed.jpg]

And then Used Dynamat to cover 90% of the door, including the inside.
[Image: IMG_0910_zps32b82798.jpg]

Got the spacer fitted, didnt need to cut any plastic I just drilled holes to secure it with bolts and nuts
[Image: IMG_0913_zps07238261.jpg]

Then finally fitted the speaker, I screwed it to the spacer obviously with 4 screws. It sticks out a lot though so I wasnt able to fit the original cover back over it.
[Image: IMG_0914_zps4ca04223.jpg]

Its very secure and level, I must say, it sounds amazing, don't think I need a sub to be honest but I will still get one just so the speakers don't have to do so much work. The quality is great, the Dynamat makes so much difference, Only thing is, I should of painted the spacer black and I need to make up some cover similar to the original.
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#68
(27-12-2014, 06:29 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: I've checked the haynes manual and it seems to be wrong with the wiring diagram.

I think and if I've worked it out right it's looking like both the yellow wires should be going to the positive terminal on the crossovers.

But best to double check with a multimeter via the ISO plug that goes to the headunit.

[Image: 23uy3ww.jpg]

Done you a little drawing to show you how an amp and sub should be connected.

[Image: ICEMap_zps0ac5fb5e.jpg]


If I want to Amplify the speakers too do I connect the amp the same way as above?
[Image: e0d4ac7c-727f-46a8-ae0c-d4a324a8a667_zpsyn3ibroz.jpg]
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#69
Install looks good, MDF sucks up water though, so to be sure they don't get wet and warp/fall apart, paint them up or clear coat them.
You might kill two birds there and make them black at the same time.

Stealing Dees thunder now offering advice Smile !
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#70
Looking good there mate.

It's amazing the difference well installed system makes.

This is how you would amp the fronts.

If you use a 4 channel amp you can use the first two channels for the fronts then make sure you get an amp you can bridge and then bridge channels three and four for the sub.

[Image: ICEMapfrontsamped_zpscb9bfe8f.jpg]



(03-01-2015, 06:32 PM)tigerstyle Wrote: Install looks good, MDF sucks up water though, so to be sure they don't get wet and warp/fall apart, paint them up or clear coat them.
You might kill two birds there and make them black at the same time.

Stealing Dees thunder now offering advice Smile !

Haha, very good advice there.

Some people use this stuff to stop water getting in but still best to make the MDF water proof.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/phonocar...-rain-stop
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#71
The key IMHO with car audio is get a reasonable amplifier behind the speakers and then work on what the speakers are mounted to and in.

Pull a speaker out, place it on the seat or on a desk and drive it and have a listen - sounds crap doesn't it. Now go and put the same speaker in a metal dustbin - louder, but still sounds crap! Now go put it in a wooden box - ahh now we're getting somewhere Wink

When you go and buy a set of bookshelf speakers, they don't attach them to a bit of sheet metal that has the sonic properties of, well, a dustbin and some plastic... They usually come in a wooden box that's the right volume, shape and has vents in the right place. Unfortunately cars haven't quite got the luxury of this, but you can improve things massively with a bit of use of your head.

My advice is go and look at how the high end manufacturers do it, anyone who has been in my V50 with the Dynaudio setup will attest to how good it sounds, but also promptly wet themselves at the door pockets, there aren't any, because it's all taken up with the speakers and box behind the speakers!
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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