Forged con rods in XUD.

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Forged con rods in XUD.
#1
Just got a set of these Forged rods for my 205 project. I wondered which way around they are installed? Is there a thrust side to them and do the smiley faces face towards the cambelt end of the engine or the gearbox end. If I get time this weekend, I'll fit them in my block to cross a job off my list. I've got the Sputter bearings for them too. Thanks..... Luke.
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#2
Bloody hell Luke, fitting them already! Not hanging around!
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#3
Well, I say I'll be fitting them tomorrow, but in reality I'll get to the garage and probably get some Numpty call in who wants to talk all day. I must start locking myself in so I can get on with it. I need to make some cardboard patterns of the manifold to head flanges and my new turbo's flange so I can get some laser cut. How's the 305 coming along Sam?
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#4
There is a thread up on rod direction >

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-7026.html

also the arp con rod bolts for these need to be torqued up to 48 foot/pounds - with arp lube on the threads / bolt face
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#5
(28-11-2014, 05:21 PM)205 Mardi gras Wrote: Well, I say I'll be fitting them tomorrow, but in reality I'll get to the garage and probably get some Numpty call in who wants to talk all day. I must start locking myself in so I can get on with it. I need to make some cardboard patterns of the manifold to head flanges and my new turbo's flange so I can get some laser cut. How's the 305 coming along Sam?

305 is coming on slowly! I need some steel adaptors laser cutting out to fit my turbo, i wonder if your place would do them for me if I can get some mocked up out of card/wood?
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#6
(29-11-2014, 11:32 AM)Sambarker Wrote:
(28-11-2014, 05:21 PM)205 Mardi gras Wrote: Well, I say I'll be fitting them tomorrow, but in reality I'll get to the garage and probably get some Numpty call in who wants to talk all day. I must start locking myself in so I can get on with it. I need to make some cardboard patterns of the manifold to head flanges and my new turbo's flange so I can get some laser cut. How's the 305 coming along Sam?

305 is coming on slowly! I need some steel adaptors laser cutting out to fit my turbo, i wonder if your place would do them for me if I can get some mocked up out of card/wood?

Yes Sam. I'll get them laser cut for you if you can knock up some cardboard patterns. I've stripped your 305's old 306 engine today and it's really clean inside. I wasn't sure which way around those new rods fitted so I just dropped the old rods out today. Thanks for sorting me a good 'un. I'm going to fit a clutch to it too as the old one's pretty worn. Would you fit a good quality standard one or something better?

(28-11-2014, 07:18 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: There is a thread up on rod direction >

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-7026.html

also the arp con rod bolts for these need to be torqued up to 48 foot/pounds - with arp lube on the threads / bolt face

Thanks for the helpful information. This stopped me today and now I can progress with the build. ......Luke.
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#7
I'd fit a 4 paddle unsprung CG Motorsport clutch, was great when I had my 309 with the big turbo
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#8
The new rods' little end bushes are very tight on my XUD gudgeon pins. It looks like they'll need sizing to my pins to allow room for oil around the pins. Did anyone else find this? ...Luke.
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#9
(30-11-2014, 06:08 PM)205 Mardi gras Wrote: The new rods' little end bushes are very tight on my XUD gudgeon pins. It looks like they'll need sizing to my pins to allow room for oil around the pins. Did anyone else find this? ...Luke.

Assume you've oiled before putting them in? They move freely on my gudgeon pins, but are a very good fit (ie you wouldn't get them in dry) I'm using the gudgeon pins that came with my xud pistons.
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#10
There needs to be a bit of room for oil between the bush and pin and I'd rather they fitted like the original XUD rods did if I'm honest. I'll get them checked out properly this week. I don't want anything to seize up once it expands with heat. ...Luke.
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#11
Yeah you don't want them tight, sounds like they might want a tickle with a hone.

You won't want to take much out though, don want them knocking
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#12
Thanks. I'll get them resized soon. What's this Arduino controller all about then? I'm used to old school petrol cars and as far as I can tell it's some kind of ECU to control your VNT that's loads better than one of these rebuild and modified actuator boost cans.
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#13
Yeah. You pretty much nailed it lol
It controls a vac solenoid to set where you want the vanes in response to throttle position, RPM and current boost against a look up chart for requested boost.
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#14
(02-12-2014, 11:04 AM)nominous Wrote: Yeah. You pretty much nailed it lol
It controls a vac solenoid to set where you want the vanes in response to throttle position, RPM and current boost against a look up chart for requested boost.

Right then, Where do I get one of those from or is it some kind of kit I need to build? What kind of cost is involved too? Thanks for the reply.......Luke
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#15
Arduino VNT...
about £50-100 depending on what you already may have.
And forget having any social life or free time in building it, testing it and setting it up!

BUT it will be worth it!

I got loads of lists of parts and diagrams if you need help.....

oh and I could do with a exhaust manifold flange being lazer cut....... Wink
Wishes for more power...
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#16
More and more it is sounding like its worth getting a proper PCB made up with a suitable BOM.
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#17
Screw the Aurdino hype, write your own micro controller in assembly from scratch.
Supercharged GTi6 Build
S14 Zenki Build
[Image: signature.png]
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#18
(03-12-2014, 09:54 AM)silverzx Wrote: Screw the Aurdino hype, write your own micro controller in assembly from scratch.

meh, I wrote mine in HEX :p


(03-12-2014, 09:51 AM)nominous Wrote: More and more it is sounding like its worth getting a proper PCB made up with a suitable BOM.

i've actually drawn up a PCB design, but getting it fabbed was going to prove too expensive for a small run.
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#19
What costs were you getting back?
Which companies did you go to?
How many layers?

https://oshpark.com

Can you share the layout please ?
Got a BOM list ?

Does this cover all the power supply and all the sensors / FET's ?
Seem to recall your box having separate boards.

Would seem logical if doing a run to go for the raw Atmel rather than adding the costs of an Arduino board, no?
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#20
(03-12-2014, 11:03 AM)nominous Wrote: What costs were you getting back?
Which companies did you go to?
How many layers?

https://oshpark.com

Can you share the layout please ?
Got a BOM list ?

Does this cover all the power supply and all the sensors / FET's ?
Seem to recall your box having separate boards.

Would seem logical if doing a run to go for the raw Atmel rather than adding the costs of an Arduino board, no?

Well yes, it all got a bit complicated as I added more and more components and functionality to my design.

I included a power supply circuit and FETs, a MAP sensor, and power rails / inputs for the other sensors.

Just about squeezed on a 2 layer iirc

Last I got up to was a breakout board that needed a separate arduino, then looked into getting it all onto a shield, and yes finally it'd be good to just integrate the amtel and have a complete embedded system

In the end I figured it was much easier to just protoype on stripboard and stuff it in a project box with whatever connectors you want to use, as the end result is pretty much the same and you're not limited to design changes in the circuit.

BOM list I don't have, was specced up on the components im currently using on my prototype so could be alternatives. Also connectors ..etc ended up being what was in the design library, not what was available to buy or cheapest option.
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#21
All very valid points. As after all you've gone from solenoid controlled to actuator controlled for example so a universal board would have to take both options into account.
Unless I'm chopping anyone else's toes off you appear to have the most reliable system and as more people get into VNT this will be the sticky point on the forum in the future.
ECU's generally scare most people that would otherwise be ok rebuilding an engine and fitting a turbo.
The days of simple bolt ons and bleed valves are coming to an end.
So faffing around with boost cans and extra batteries to get reliable VNT operation is a bad thing in my view.

I'm happy to help however I can to get a board up and working as a one stop.
Admittedly I have a vested interest as I'm going to go VNT eventually but also believe re-inventing the wheel is rather silly when it's been done so well.
Sadly my previous job would have helped as had the capacity to design and manufacture multi-layer PCB's and also carried most of the parts to populate them - including atmels and expert programmers.
There was a lot of interesting side projects going on..... Smile
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#22
(02-12-2014, 10:17 PM)Piggy Wrote: Arduino VNT...
about £50-100 depending on what you already may have.
And forget having any social life or free time in building it, testing it and setting it up!

BUT it will be worth it!

I got loads of lists of parts and diagrams if you need help.....

oh and I could do with a exhaust manifold flange being lazer cut....... Wink

OK Piggy. My mate has quite a bit of stuff Laser cut so I'll see what he thinks. Is it a stainless manifold flange of mild steel like mine will be? ...Luke.
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