Brake fluid

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Brake fluid
#1
Hi,
Am in the process of uprating the braking system on the rallye

It has Ferodo ds2500 on front with unknown discs but they have a fair amount of life in them so they can remain.

I am currently rebuilding my rear calipers and they will be going back on the car with Ferodo ds2500 roads and gsf brembo discs.

I have bought some braided hoses as well

Anyway, can someone suggest a good brake fluid? I was going to just go with halfords 5.1 but I have read that some dot 4 out performs some dot 5.1 so what do you all recommend

Alan
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#2
5.1 is in general better than 4. Break fluid is so cheap anyway that there isn't much point in getting the cheapest alternative.
I've had good results with Motul RBF-600, but i've also had equally good results with a local budget car-parts chains "race" brake fluid, only downside is that it's so clear you can hardly se the level in the reservoir :p


Here's a table compiled by users on a racer forum i visit, prices are in Swedish krona.
Torr kokpunkt = Dry boiling point, Våt kokpunkt = Wet boiling point
[Image: 2013-07-30-08-08-56_bromsvatska.jpg]

The one i run today is the Biltema Race 5.1
Tinkerer of 306gti6 trackday racer, less stuff, more hard, more umpf, more stop.
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#3
Ate blue dot 4 is great stuff!
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#4
Halfords DOT5.1 has always been fine for me and taken whatever I can throw at it on road and track. Cheap with a trade card too.

Remember that it's important to change the fluid fairly regularly - at a minimum annually would be sensible if you're doing regular trackdays - due to the dramatic reduction in boiling point when the fluid has absorbed moisture (the so called "wet" boiling point)

There are certainly better fluids out there, but you'll likely find that DS2500's will overheat before the fluid does. Good pads though as a road-track compromise and I loved them on my 205 Smile
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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#5
I has trade card! Will just go for the halfords stuff
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#6
Ate superblue is cheap and decent, but then again regular changes are the most important thing, even a regular flush with a factors cheapest is better than leaving your super-race fluid in for 2 years.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
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#7
cheers, ill stick the halfords stuff in! at the moment the entire rear braking system seems to be in a mess
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