Wheel bearing help.....

[devils_fuel]

i have to change the o/s/f wheel bearing again, which is annoying as Kris B changed it a few years ago

I have found a garage to press out/in the new bearing BUT what other tools will i need to do the job? I know i will need to borrow a torque wrench and hubnut socket if any has one i could borrow?

and the gentleman connor will be aiding me

[Dan!]

22mm Swan neck spanner is the only 'special' tool I can think of, which you need for undo-ing the top mount nut (in the engine bay!

[devils_fuel]

cool, is the job a nightmare dan or not...never done one on a 306

[mark_airey]

22mm Swan neck spanner is the only 'special' tool I can think of, which you need for undo-ing the top mount nut (in the engine bay!

and why would you need to remove that when changing a wheel bearing? I'm confused!

Basic socket set should do the job with the exception of the hub nut socket which I could post you if needed as long as you look after it and I get it back although they are reasonably cheap off ebay TBH (I think they are 35mm but would have to check tonight as I can't remember)

[Dan!]

Mark,

Because you need to remove the hub to take it to a garage have the bearing pressed in/out, and just dropping the hub/strut assembly off as one unit is easier than fighting to get the strut out of the hub for ages!

Removing hub/strut together just needs the top nut and 3 13mm bolts removing

Removing the hub from the strut requires an hour of hammering with a BFO hammer and making your arm ache

Thats just how I would do it anyway!

[ginge191]

breaker bar - done

[darrenjlobb]

Leave strut in place, just release the hub nut, brake caliper, brake disk, track rod end, and lower arm, lastly drop hub off the strut, in that order, and you will be left with the hub in your hands

work upwards so you always have something to smash down on. job done in 20 mins

[devils_fuel]

Basic socket set should do the job with the exception of the hub nut socket which I could post you if needed as long as you look after it and I get it back although they are reasonably cheap off ebay TBH (I think they are 35mm but would have to check tonight as I can't remember)

Your offer may just come in handy if darren can't do the bearing

darren how far are you from me (Bristol) as my bearing is rumbling and i need it done before my holiday - can/are you able to do it for beer tokens? I don't want to travel too far and risk the car fudging up on the motorway getting to you and is your property lowered car friendly? If not no worries and cannor and i will do it on my drive

[devils_fuel]

22mm Swan neck spanner is the only 'special' tool I can think of, which you need for undo-ing the top mount nut (in the engine bay!

and why would you need to remove that when changing a wheel bearing? I'm confused!

Basic socket set should do the job with the exception of the hub nut socket which I could post you if needed as long as you look after it and I get it back although they are reasonably cheap off ebay TBH (I think they are 35mm but would have to check tonight as I can't remember)

I will pm about the socket as I will need it, got a torque wrench as well?

[devils_fuel]

I also need to replace the rubber mounts on the backs of the lower arms at the same time, are these - easy to do or is there a "knack" to doing them?

[mark_airey]

I also need to replace the rubber mounts on the backs of the lower arms at the same time, are these - easy to do or is there a "knack" to doing them?

IMO for the sake of £30 odd you can get the entire arm complete with the front and rear bushes and the ball joint, saves pissing about removing the old bushes and you get a new ball joint and both bushes, win win

[devils_fuel]

I'm looking at GSFcar parts website and 2 complete arms and a wheel bearing is £95.40 + i guess VAT at 20% (19.80) - total of £115.20

does the above sound a good price? Europarts wanted £73.40 per arm??

[samass]

sounds about right, mind you, i do get all my stuff from gsf anyway so i just pay whatever tha man tells me! but i think thats not bad. their wishbones dont include ball joints tho, if you were thinking about replacing them

[devils_fuel]

thanks for the info about no balljoint with the arm, i wasn't made aware of any issues with the balljoints when the car was MOT'd 2 weeks ago

[samass]

should be all good then. generally, as long as the rubber gaitor isn't split, and they move freely, they're all good

[mark_airey]

regarding ball joints, if they are riveted on then you will need bolts to re-attach them and you will have to drill out the rivets which will be fun!.........

[londondan86]

This thread may be of some use as well: <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2674" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2674</a><!-- l -->

[devils_fuel]

regarding ball joints, if they are riveted on then you will need bolts to re-attach them and you will have to drill out the rivets which will be fun!.........

I've opted to just replace the bush at the end on each arm as everything else is fine plus the above issue, Connor also pointed this out.

The above and a wheel bearing will keep us busy lol.

Mark are those std speakers ok?