two questions

[toseland]

HEad gasket is showing signs of failing, (inflated coolant hoses only at the moment).

so was thinking of saving myself a little "swapover" time, and procuring a head from someone, having that sorted/skimmed and fiddled with, and then sticking that on..

2 questions (maybe 3, possibly 4 or 5 depending on how many i think of whilst asking the first 2)


1. is there a nice guide for the head gasket on the XUD9.

2. This one got answered by Mr DarkInferno on chat. obviously, as with any engine, when doing the headgasket (will be doing the water pump and timing belt too) you lock the crank, and cam pullies. Now, i am looking to get a spare head and swap this over, how much could go wrong with the timing if i simply stuck the bolt in the correct place for the new head, and stuck that back on?

3. anything else i should look out for, whilst doing the head (anything else i can change whilst doing it is probably a better question).

4. would you guys recommend any specific gaskets or other bits?, my reading has pointed out some metal ones, that replace the original paper one, and also ARP head bolts (where from please)


i am (i would like to say) mechanically profficient to a, what i like to consider, high level and have an idea of whats required but want to make absolutely sure i get all the little foybles covered before i start

[bashbarnard]

1. I dont think there is a guide but various bits on the forum will help you. If you get stuck get a thread up

2 nothing can go wrong with the timing if you lock the cam in a new head. Would be the same in the old head. Just make sure once the belts on you turn the bottom pully round twice by hand and lock again to check timing and vakves dont hit

3 I would buy a d seal for the intercooler when the heads off. They always get brittle from my experience
4. Head set with a multi layered steel headgasket. Arp head bolta you wont really.need unless your going mega power.

Regardless what head you use I would advise you get it skimmed while its off. Make sure you dont have to do the job twice then. A second hand head might be slightly warped too.

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Also I apoligise for any errors speeling or punctuation whise im doing this on my phone

[toseland]

with regards to the skimming, that was my plan.. purchase second head, get it skimmed and sorted, so i can just rip the other one off and stick the new one on at the same time.

no intercooler on this one, its the '9SD from the citroens.. i have a rover intercooler for it here now.. huge core size, 12x5x3inches so nicely suited to the tasks

not going mega power, but the ARP site doesnt list for the 306 unless i found a different site..

[andyyy]

Pretty sure ARP don't make them for 306 you need to get them for another Peugeot and get some spacers made up

Make sure you have a strong T55 bit for replacing the head bolts as I snapped one (if you don't put arp studs in)

[toseland]

will get a halfrauds professional one, with the l/t guarantee, alot can be said about the rest but their quality tools are nice..

[Jimbo]

Ive got some arp studs brand new, 180 posted

[andyyy]

will get a halfrauds professional one, with the l/t guarantee, alot can be said about the rest but their quality tools are nice..

it was one of those i snapped lol !

[toseland]

its like 40ft/lb of torque +/- 20... lol., who did your stretch bolts? the incredible hulk?

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Ive got some arp studs brand new, 180 posted

yeah i am interested but not yet.. i will get a new engine (another spare engine) and do all the work on that, including all the trick bits..

[andyyy]

Did mine tighter than that followed this spec sheet http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-12641.html