egr valve removal

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egr valve removal
#1
Iv bought the blanking kit to completely remove my egr valve as mine is currently leaking, my questions are, has anyone done this? As i have been told that you have to unbolt the cambelt side engine mount and move the engine forward to gain enough access to the egr, if that's the case what else needs to be moved / unbolted so its not broken and was the engine moved using an engine crane or a trolley jack from underneath?

Need to know any other information if anyone can help me?! even if its another way, as I'm going to attempt it soon so anything is appreciated as I know its going to be a pita!!! And there's not a lot of guides out there on the net to completely remove it but loads to just unplug it Confused
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#2
There is a guide out there because I wrote it. lol

That said it may have been a victim of the culling over at .net, I can't tell you either way because my paid up lifetime membership has apparently expired... so i'm locked out of seeing the guides I wrote... Rolleyes

However you do it is a chronic ballache, if I was you i'd start with the exhaust side flange as thats the one most likely to scupper your plans. As you've said, the engine needs to be dropped forwards off the top mount, do it using a jack as it leaves easier access from above than a crane would.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#3
Cheers poodle! I guess I shud sign up to see these guides, how long did it take you to do it?
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#4
When I removed mine I took some pics

http://www.theywhoshallnotbenamed/forum/...ost1902840

It's not a guide but it gives you an idea.
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#5
It took me a while as it was one of the first mechanical jobs I ever did and I removed the whole lot rather than just blanking the inlet. I don't know how mechanically experienced you are, but I wouldn't expect it to take more than a couple of hours. Wr
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#6
(11-03-2014, 02:26 PM)Poodle Wrote: It took me a while as it was one of the first mechanical jobs I ever did and I removed the whole lot rather than just blanking the inlet. I don't know how mechanically experienced you are, but I wouldn't expect it to take more than a couple of hours. Wr

I used to be a vehicle strip / fit tech in a body shop and have changed engines in a couple cars but I mainly just do basic stuff like brakes and servicing on my cars now and most hard to do things I usually take to my trusty mechanic but I'm willing to take the whole egr system out myself to try save some money as I got to tax it end of month.

When you did it poodle did you have to move anything out the way like disconnect the downpipe or move the header tank above the rad to move the engine enough to gain good access down the back Huh

Also looks like the pas and alternator are not going to let the engine move forward much at all Undecided
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#7
Sorry, that posted itself before id finished writing lol. Cant remember what I was going to say anyway. lol

I did it with the engine out, so dont know tbh. I expect the restrictions imposed by the alternator are morelikely to be a problem than the other bits youve mentioned. Access down the back is fairly shit at best, to take the whole system off youre probably looking at about a days work. Main issue is the studs and nuts on the exhaust flange, they tend to be corroded on and the whole thing ends up needing welding because once youve broken a stud the join will leak.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#8
(11-03-2014, 03:45 PM)nath86 Wrote: When you did it poodle did you have to move anything out the way like disconnect the downpipe or move the header tank above the rad to move the engine enough to gain good access down the back Huh

When I did mine I just undone the top engine mount, had the engine on the crane and pulled the engine forward. There was enough room and I didn't have to remove anything in front of the engine. I had to take the vacuum pump off the side so I could move the metal inlet pipe out the way of the exhaust side of the EGR.
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