The big question thread

[Slam Wagon]

Hey, so im going stage two, booked for remap on the 25th but first i need to build up my engine and get it swapped with my current one. Im going to have plenty of questions and as i dont have a project thread i though id better get something started here.

Set up i will be running is k03s hybrid turb, r70 pump, helix clutch and already got the exhaust and fmic done.

First question, which way does the water go through the bulk head? Does it come from the gearbox side and then down to by the turbo or the other way round?

Also with replacing the hp pump is there any dos and donts? Any parts i may not have realised i need?

Please excuse any novice questions, an engine swap plus mods is way more than ive ever done before.

Thanks in advance, i know i will probably hve my ass saved by you lot a few times over the next week and a bit.

Ian

[Midnightclub]

Who's doing your mapping out of interest?

[Slam Wagon]

Pro steve im going to see, as hes closest.

[mcglynn]

HP pump depends on what its off, 330D one needs a hole on the bracket elongating to fitm

2.2 hdi one fits straight on no hassle

[Slam Wagon]

Its from a 2.2. Hoping it goes fairly smoothly, im giving it a go tonight.

[Poodle]

Replacing the hp pump: keep everything very clean, can't stress that enough. Plug or cap all fuel inlet/outlet/unions as soon as they're disconnected and don't uncover them again until you're ready to reconnect. As long as ypu've bought the 2.2hdi pump it's a straight swap, no changes required.

You'll want a new release bearing and pressure plate with your clutch, if you haven't already got them. Boost gauge is essential and an emp/egt gauge pair wouldn't go amiss either.

I think the water pipes run gearbox>matrix>block as you've said, but i'm not 100% on that.

[Slam Wagon]

Keep its clean, got it, ill be sure to take extra disposable gloves home tonight. Its jonnys old pump.

Got all parts to the clutch so thats cool, also got a mate coming round with an alignment tool so the clutch should be fine.

Thats the way i figured they ran. Not really an issue either way really.

Cheers

[Poodle]

Sounds like you've got it pretty under control tbh. Is that dum-dum's old turbo, or are you planning on building a new one?

[Slam Wagon]

Dum dums

[Poodle]

Ah fair enough.

[Dum-Dum]

I would of thought that as the rad has a top pipe and a bottom pipe then for the best efficiency the top pipe should be the inlet for hot water and the bottom should be outlet for cold (and back round to the water pump) as heat rises

[Jonny81191]

I would of thought that as the rad has a top pipe and a bottom pipe then for the best efficiency the top pipe should be the inlet for hot water and the bottom should be outlet for cold (and back round to the water pump) as heat rises

Rad? He asked about the matrix...

[Slam Wagon]

Hes saying the matrix hoses are the other way round. Would it not make sense to have to feed to the matrix coming from the block to then use some of the heat in the cabin before being cooled by the rad? I guess either way would make sense.

[Dum-Dum]

I would of thought that as the rad has a top pipe and a bottom pipe then for the best efficiency the top pipe should be the inlet for hot water and the bottom should be outlet for cold (and back round to the water pump) as heat rises

Rad? He asked about the matrix...

No Shit Sherlock! But as the matrix is connected to the rad via the rest of the coolant system then once you have worked out what way one of the big bits flows you can work out the little bits.

Hes saying the matrix hoses are the other way round. Would it not make sense to have to feed to the matrix coming from the block to then use some of the heat in the cabin before being cooled by the rad? I guess either way would make sense.

That does make sense in a way but as coolant doesn't really flow through the rad till the thermostat opens the only cooling is done by the matrix so any water in it would be warm.

Might get the IR thermometer out one day and measure the temp drop across the matrix and rad.

[Poodle]

Lol that was a pretty tenuous link tbf. Ian's right though surely, otherwise the heaters would be shit the moment the thermostat opened.

[Slam Wagon]

Its going in the same place either way, was just wanting to know.

Pump is on now, all went pretty well. Had a mechanic friend pop over and lend me a hand so managed to drop the box and clutch off too ready for tomorrow. Finally a bit of progress.

[mcglynn]

Pics or gtfo

[Slam Wagon]

Im useless with pics and shit, thats partly why i have no project thread. Might get some tomorrow.

[Connor]

Let me know when you're down steves mate, hes just round the corner from me

[Slam Wagon]

Alright mate, will do.

[Slam Wagon]

Replacing the frps is it just plug and play with it?

[Poodle]

Depends what you're replacing it with. If you're just talking about putting a standard new one, then yes. With the dv6 sensor you'll need it mapped in.

[Slam Wagon]

The one from a 1.6 cant remember what pressure it is. So just need mapping in, sweet.

[Poodle]

Yeah that's the one, it's 1800 bar.

[Dum-Dum]

You also need to swap wire 1 and wire 2 in the plug for the DV6 sensor.

Don't fit it till you've got a map or the car wont run.

[Slam Wagon]

Wont run at all dum? This is what i had heard and wanted to check. Looks like ill be taking that back out. And its in a bastard place, tucked behind everything.

[Poodle]

Oh yeah lol, forgotten about that bit. It'll run without being mapped in, but it'll work like a chronic tuning box - plus 20% fuel everywhere across the range, even under cruising conditions.

[Slam Wagon]

Ill just have to keep on boost then should run a little better when the turb does kick in.

[Dum-Dum]

No it wont run better cos it'll be 20% too much fuel if it even runs, as the car will sense that the sensor is reading 20% out from what it should be reading and decide thats its broken.

[Slam Wagon]

As long as it gets me to bristol im happy, ill make sure i take both with me just incase.