Very sad car

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Very sad car
#1
So I decided tohave a weekend away in the lake district, my little pug was doing really well and hadnt had any problems until I decided to come back. Pulling into the services I noticed a louder than usual rattle, pulling out of the services there was a pop and it sort of sounded better. Any way long story short I managed to get home and had a look.

I found this wrapped round the aux belt.

[Image: detyde5y.jpg]

Other symptoms are that anything over 2000 revs and the battery light pops up and the power steering drops out. The aux belt has slipped over a notch. The furthest cog down at the back seems to be the problem but I have no idea what this is.

Ive tralled through my haynes but I cant find ajy details of what does what with the belt.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#2
Whats the state of the AUX belt itself mate? I get the impression it's slipping at higher revs.
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#3
Crankshaft pulley.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#4
It looks chewed not sure if thats from the h8tbof metal or if its rubbing somewhere else
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#5
bottom pulley
Wishes for more power...
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#6
as said above that bit of metal is from the bottom pulley.
Mine did exactly the same when mine went.
But when the bottom pulley goes it doesn't run true so i would think that is what's caused the belt to jump a notch over.

[Image: pulley_zps5498c5dc.jpg]

Here is a diagram of the belt lay out on a HDI with aircon, if yours does not have aircon then it is slightly different.

[Image: 86bfe8c8-eae0-4d7d-912e-89639e6020cc_zpsccb48758.jpg]
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#7
As others have said, replace the crank pulley sharpish, looks like you got lucky this time.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#8
Cheers guy ill look at getting that sorted sharpish!
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#9
Get a solid one off a later 307 and it wont go wrong again, pattern parts fail quickly.
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#10
yay broken pulley frwend


go to ECP and ask for the 2.0 307 then ask for the trade cash price. think i paid £27 for it

[Image: DSC_0190-Copy_zpsf093f84d.jpg]
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#11
Thats pretty good price wise, how fiddly is the fitting of the belt and pully?
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#12
Just had another look under the bonnet there seems to be an oil leak with the pully. Has anyone replaced this before? Is it a big job?
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#13
Oil leak with the pulley..? That doesnt sound promising, might be worth pulling the cambelt covers while the pulleys off just to check it didnt do any damage when it let go. Bottom pulley should only take a couple of hours, go in from drivers arch, dont take aux belt off everything, just lock off the tensioner amd tuck it out the way.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#14
The oil seems to eminate from the pully itself need a new belt as that was chewed badly.
[Image: utyda5yj.jpg]

[Image: u3a5y7ej.jpg]

[Image: ura7y2y3.jpg]

Dont know if these help at all but it look a mess
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#15
I would chuck a new belt on while your doing the pulley as well, a new belt is less than a tenner and if it has had that bit of metal going around it, it won't of done it any good, when i did mine the belt looked fine ( i got a new one just incase, and once it was removed there were loads of little cuts in the belt from the bit of metal ).

Pulley is nice and easy to do. jack the car and support it well on stands, remove the drivers wheel and the arch liner and you will see the pulley in front of you.
Take the tension off the spring loaded tensioner and then the manual tensioner and remove the belt.
Chuck the car in 5th and get some one to hold the brakes on, and undo the bolt in the middle of the pulley, it can be quite tight so a nice big breaker bar will help.
Once it is off, fit the new pulley do up the bolt, put the new belt on and tension it using the manual tensioner first and then release the tension on the spring loaded tensioner back on to the belt, fit the arch liner and wheel and take off stands and job done.

Oil doesn't sound good though, might just have to get in there and see where it is coming from for definite. It might have knackered the bearing seal behind the pulley.
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#16
be warned getting the pullye its self off is a bitch one the bolt is out. soo if your struggling dont think thats unusal just keep at it. took me about an hour just to get the pullye off

[Image: DSC_0190-Copy_zpsf093f84d.jpg]
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#17
Cheers titch been pouring through the haynes and think I found the relevant page but its better to hear it I someo es elses words. Cant find much information on the seal but the garage recons 4 to 8 hours labour which I'm struggling to believe.
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#18
Yeah the pulley can sometimes be difficult to get off, mine just fell off once the bolt was out. I have never changed that seal so couldn't say how difficult it is or how long it would take.

Here is a service box pic you can see the crankshaft bearing seal is no 5 in the picture.
But it might not be that, you need to get in there and have a good look to confirm where the oil is coming from. Once the old pulley is off, you should be able to see if the oil is leaking from behind it, i would of thought.

[Image: 12685618-770b-4861-878c-cd3b503ba8cb_zps339ce989.jpg]
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#19
might be getting the wrong end of the stick here


but we are all talking about the crank pully and not the PAS pulley shown in the pic toast put up. im getting the feelin he is thinking we are talking about PAS pulley and not the crank?

[Image: DSC_0190-Copy_zpsf093f84d.jpg]
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#20
(23-09-2013, 12:28 PM)puglove Wrote: might be getting the wrong end of the stick here


but we are all talking about the crank pully and not the PAS pulley shown in the pic toast put up. im getting the feelin he is thinking we are talking about PAS pulley and not the crank?


I know i was starting to think the same, but the pic toast put up, i hope was to just show the state of the belt and the oil around the general area of the belt run, as it is near enough impossible to get a picture of the crank pulley with out taking the wheel and arch liner out.
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#21
Crank pulley is part 7 in the service box pic.

It can be a big job as you have to fully lock off the engine to get the bolt undone.
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#22
(23-09-2013, 12:37 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Crank pulley is part 7 in the service box pic.

It can be a big job as you have to fully lock off the engine to get the bolt undone.

just making sure that the op knows what part we are talking about , as his pics show the power steering pump pulley. But you can't really get a good pic of the crank pulley without the wheel off and liner out really.
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#23
Yeah it was just a quick top down to show the oil that was out havent had time to get the arch off to have a real close look
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#24
Crank seal is pretty hard to get at, seems reasonable. Sounds retty f*cked tbh. :/
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#25
Having it looked at tommoro by a couple of more mechanically minded people than me. If its just the pully I cant see a problem changing it but if its the seal ill have to out source
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#26
Good luck, once you have got the pulley off, you should be able to see more and find out where the oil is coming from.
That pulley must of been rattling for ages before it spat the metal out.
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#27
Yeah it was wish I was closer to home when it started
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#28
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCARADb9...ata_player

I thinks shes getting scrapped and replaced.
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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#29
I've just seen the pics, that looks a lot like cv grease, are you sure the flailing bit of metal didn't rip a cv boot?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#30
Im going to have her apart some time today were quiet at work so the boss doesnt have an issue with it.
[Image: 2jcaw6b.jpg]
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