Couple of Bosch VE questions

[SKoob]

I'm going to attempt my gov mod tomorrow, I've got a spare pump so was going to do the mod to governor assembly from that as its out and put in my current pump. Will the markings for the throttle control lever in relation to the spindle need to be from the spare pump or the current pump on the car? Or would the best idea be to mod the current pumps governor assembly? I'm worried about snapping something :oops:
Also once the mod has been done what can I do to ensure my car passes it's MOT? I'm aware they rev it to the governor to check the smoke, but as it won't really cut in I'm worried its going to blow up

[Dan!]

Shim the gov assembly from your spare pump as thats the tricky part, then just drop the pre-shimmed assembly into the gov cradle out of your normal pump And to stop it revving out so hard on the mot just wind the max throttle stop screw in so the throttle arm cannot reach max travel (only for thhe mot, remove it again afterwards )

[SKoob]

Perfect, so the spindle needs to line up with the marks from the pump on the car or shall I use the spare throttle arm too?

[SKoob]

Also I'm going to remove the spring that controls cold idle, is it going to be a pig to idle when the cold?

[Dan!]

I dont quite get what your saying in your first reply :S But about the cold idle spring, you may aswel leave it in. It can REALLY mess up the idle to the point where its annoying to drive on a daily basis or in traffic etc. Personally leave it in, you can make a fair amount of power with it still fitted

[SKoob]

Does removing the spring make the idle fluctuate wildly? Would using the anti stall to set the idle still make it awkward to drive? Thing is as it is I can't turn the fuel up without the idle going up a lot ad: so its maxed out at the moment. Doesn't feel that quick and there is no smoke on boost. Just trying to think of what I can do to add fuel without messing up the idle. I'm running a kkk k14 with the actuator basically disabled

[Dan!]

Start grinding or bending the back part of the throttle arm so it can sit further round at idle, if that makes sense?

REmoving the spring usually results in an idle which will drop down to like 500rpm when you turn your music up or drop it a few hundred rpm when your headlights are on (because of electrical load on the engine/alternator), so not an ideal 'fix' either tbh.

Whats your LDA setup like?

[SKoob]

I've rotated it for the steeper profile. Might be interested in a ground pin though. Hmmm ok, would disconnecting my cold start from the wax stat be a good idea then to reduce idle? I've got the hot idle screw removed at present as it is.

[Dan!]

Yeah rotated pins make a small difference, but even a ground standard pin will make a massive difference over a rotated pin. Let me know if you're interested

And the wax stat shouldnt be a problem, cold idle doesnt matter too much if its a bit high because it'l only be like it for 10 mins each morning, its the hot idle you want to keep low. Just to check, when you say your removed the hot idle screw, youve removed the one on the right havent you? (as you look at the pump from the front of the car)

[SKoob]

Yes that's the one, mine has a dodgy idle as it is. When started it idles at 1k, then about 30 secs later it will idle at 1250ish then after a hard ragging it will start idling around 450 to 500rpm. It's quite random when it happens as sometimes will behave properly and idle at 850ish. The second I add mote fuel it goes crazy though.

[Toby]

Yes that's the one, mine has a dodgy idle as it is. When started it idles at 1k, then about 30 secs later it will idle at 1250ish then after a hard ragging it will start idling around 450 to 500rpm. It's quite random when it happens as sometimes will behave properly and idle at 850ish. The second I add mote fuel it goes crazy though.

The reason for the initial jump from 1000 rpm to 1250 is because your glow plug relay times off and the load is therefore taken off the alternator, and so the idle speed increases.

The (probable) reason for the drop in idle speed after heavy use is your hot idle screw position in relation to the idle lever behind the pump. It could be that the wax stat/wire system which controls this has slackened over time and therefore only fully activates (thus lowering idle) at high engine temps.

My 2 cents anyway..

[SKoob]

Fitted pump just under a year ago so would be surprised if cable had slackened that quickly. Hot idle scew has been removed. Think I'll just disconnect wax stat and see how I get on with the little spring left in place

[SKoob]

Had a play with the pump tonight. Disconnected the wax stat, idle instantly dropped. Setup fueling and idle all seemed ok then it started idling really slow so I've left it for now as can't get it steady :cry: So decided to turn my attention to shimming the gov on my spare pump.





All done, fiddliest part was getting the lid back on. Tried this a few times on my spare to get the knack. Got to fit it to my current pump on the car do will have a go Saturday.

[SKoob]

Did the gov mod but now it doesn't idle, battery has died so can't do much more this evening. Have I shimmed the correct part? Everything else is the same as before and I'm sure the throttle arm is on the correct spline. I used the cradle from my spare pump would that make any difference?

[Mattcheese31]

Did the gov mod but now it doesn't idle, battery has died so can't do much more this evening. Have I shimmed the correct part? Everything else is the same as before and I'm sure the throttle arm is on the correct spline. I used the cradle from my spare pump would that make any difference?

should have used your old cradle really .

[SKoob]

Thought my method would streamline the process lol. I'll mod that tomorrow then and see how I get on.

[Mattcheese31]

what pump was the governer out of . . . .

[SKoob]

Out of another Bosch ve from a 306

[SKoob]

Ended up shimming the governor from pump on the car and putting it back in, seems a bit better. My leak off pipes decided they would split and piss diesel everywhere. I think it may of even got on the clutch as its slipping like a bitch when it comes on boost. Feels like all my hard work has been done for nothing now lol. Clutch is only 6 months old.