06-12-2011, 05:17 PM
So firstly, if you ruin your car its not my fault. This is a guide and not instructions!
Parts needed:
Inlet manifold
GTI6 fuel rail with FPR
complete Throttle body
Breather hoses from crankcase to throttle body
half metre of 6mm fuel line
half metre of 8mm fuel line
Lots of various size hose clips
either a gti6 air box (in which case you will also need top radiator hose) or a induction kit.
GTI6 manifold gasket (2.80 from pug)
6x m8x1.25x 25mm bolts
Ok now i did take photos as i went but ive lost them all! Will be doing this conversion on a friends car soon so will take photos then.
1) remove original air box and ducting. Airbox mounting plate is held in by 2 10mm bolts on the slam panel.
2) Disconnect all the plugs on the throttle body and the accelerator cable.
3) Remove your fuel relay (located on back of the battery box) and crank the car several times. It might start but will cut out almost straight away. This removes all pressure from the fuel lines and rail.
4) unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold and carefully remove. Now you want to take the metal retaining clips from the injectors and very carefully remove them from the rail. you will have some fuel spilling out so might be handy to have some old rag to hand to soak it up. Place the injectors to one side, keeping them somewhere clean.
5) remove the vacuum hose from the FPR and then set about removing the fuel lines. If you follow them back to where they go to a 90 degree bend at the drivers side strut, this is where you want to remove them. Remove the clips on the hose and carefully wiggle the hose off the plastic connectors. Once again you will loose a little fuel so have something to soak it up. Place fuel rail to one side. The hose with the white connector (nearest the front of the car) is the fuel feed whilst the green one (nearest rear of car) is the return. You do not want to get these mixed up as the car will not run!
6) Remove the pipe that goes from the crank case to in-between the manifold. This just pulls off from in-between the manifold but is clipped onto the crankcase.
Now, start unbolting the manifold. You will have 2 13mm nuts and 6 6mm allen key bolts. Some are fiddly to get to but can be done.
7) once the bolts are removed, pull the manifold away from the block but only carefully. There are still plugs connected! Remove the MAP sensor plug and the remaining vacuum hoses and then remove the manifold.
Wasn't that easy!
8) The map sensor wire needs to be relocated so it will reach on the new manifold. Remove the cable armouring and pull the cable back through to where the throttle body sensor wiring comes from. Make sure not to wrap it around any other wires or have it pulling really tight as this will result in broken wiring at some point!
9) Once you have returned the wiring armour, check to make sure everything is ok! Now is the ideal time to replace your started motor or even do your oil filter if you hate doing it from underneath where access is almost impossible!
10) place gasket onto block and offer manifold up. Now is where trial and error comes in. You might have some wires or pipes in the way. My power steering pipe was in the way but all i had to do was bend it by about 5mm and it was clear.
11) bolt manifold into place. You need to use your new bolts as the old ones will be too long.
12) take your injectors, grease up the seals on them and carefully wriggle them into the new fuel rail. Once in, fit the metal retaining clips and offer up to manifold. Gently wriggle into place and then with a bit of pressure, they should pop in. Bolt the rail down but don't over tighten as the manifold is only made of soft ally and will thread easily! (as i discovered!)
13)take your two lengths of fuel hose and fit to fuel rail with appropriate hose clips. The hoses want to be on the rail as far as possible and clipped down tight!
14) route the hose the same route as the old ones went making sure they won't rub on anything. offer up to the fuel lines on the strut and cut to length.
(8mm = fuel feed/Green connector
6mm = fuel return/white connector. Do not get these mixed up!)
15) Fit fuel hoses onto connectors on strut and tighten hose clips. Cable tie hoses out of the way so they won't chafe or get damaged.
16) Fit throttle body to manifold (4x long allen bolts) and connect all sensors back up being careful to make sure none are over stretched or chafing. Fit accelerator cable to throttle body.
17) when you removed your old manifold, you would have unplugged a hose that goes over to the drivers wing. This needs to be connected back up to the hose on the front of the throttle body (next to yellow plug). I used a new bit of hose for this but you could always use whats there.
18) reconnect brake servo hose. This is located differently on the gti manifold and so might be a bit fiddly fitting the hose but it does go on!
19) fit oil breather hose from throttle body to crank case.
20) Fir your induction kit/air box. Either way, you are going to have to make up some mounts so i can't really help here!) (if you are using a induction kit, you must have a breather filter on the hose coming from the ICV. If you are using the original air box, this will plug straight into the feed from the air box to the throttle body.)
21) Refit fuel relay and any other bits you may have removed. Have a good look over to make sure there is nothing missing and check everything is tight.
22) start car. Might be hard to start as first because fuel needs to be pumped along the new lines. It will be worth having someone there to watch the engine when starting to make sure there is no fuel squirting from a badly fitted hose/injector. if this is the case, turn the car off immediately and inspect.
Notes:
- I can't stress enough how important it is for the fuel hoses to be connected securely and properly. Make sure you buy proper fuel hose and not just any old rubber hose. If a hose pops off or a injector starts leaking because it was badly fitted, you could have a under bonnet fire and then thats good bye car and maybe good bye you!
- At the moment i am using the 3.2 bar FPR out of the 1.8 rail. I suggest you do the same to start with as this runs fine however i will be trailing the 4bar FPR from the gti rail in a few weeks.
- Please make sure all hoses and cables are securely out the way and not chafing. This manifold is a lot bigger than the old one so space is a lot tighter. Last thing you want is to break down because of a chafed wire somewhere!
- All sensors on the gti throttle body are the same as they are on the 1.8 one and so it doesn't matter which one you use.
- Make sure you use the 1.8 injectors. If you use the gti ones, it will run like shite unless you get a remap because more fuel will be being injected than the car thinks. This will also ruin your engine over time!
Hope this helps some people! Ive put a few photos of the finished thing here for reference and i will be adding some guide photos when i do my mates car in a few weeks.
![[Image: 158a94e5.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/158a94e5.jpg)
![[Image: 8f3daaa8.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/8f3daaa8.jpg)
Fuel line connection
![[Image: ce6aa36c.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/ce6aa36c.jpg)
Power steering pipe clearance
![[Image: 687c1d76.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/687c1d76.jpg)
Update time
As promised I have FINALLY added some more photos
![[Image: b0e9bfb3.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/b0e9bfb3.jpg)
The hose you see to the right of this pic links to here
![[Image: 61faa234.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/61faa234.jpg)
![[Image: 0d7b2618.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/0d7b2618.jpg)
Fuel hose connections. Messy at the moment but does the job
![[Image: 3f8857d1.jpg]](http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/niallharper/3f8857d1.jpg)
Throttle body connections
If you need any more photos, give us a shout.
Parts needed:
Inlet manifold
GTI6 fuel rail with FPR
complete Throttle body
Breather hoses from crankcase to throttle body
half metre of 6mm fuel line
half metre of 8mm fuel line
Lots of various size hose clips
either a gti6 air box (in which case you will also need top radiator hose) or a induction kit.
GTI6 manifold gasket (2.80 from pug)
6x m8x1.25x 25mm bolts
Ok now i did take photos as i went but ive lost them all! Will be doing this conversion on a friends car soon so will take photos then.
1) remove original air box and ducting. Airbox mounting plate is held in by 2 10mm bolts on the slam panel.
2) Disconnect all the plugs on the throttle body and the accelerator cable.
3) Remove your fuel relay (located on back of the battery box) and crank the car several times. It might start but will cut out almost straight away. This removes all pressure from the fuel lines and rail.
4) unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold and carefully remove. Now you want to take the metal retaining clips from the injectors and very carefully remove them from the rail. you will have some fuel spilling out so might be handy to have some old rag to hand to soak it up. Place the injectors to one side, keeping them somewhere clean.
5) remove the vacuum hose from the FPR and then set about removing the fuel lines. If you follow them back to where they go to a 90 degree bend at the drivers side strut, this is where you want to remove them. Remove the clips on the hose and carefully wiggle the hose off the plastic connectors. Once again you will loose a little fuel so have something to soak it up. Place fuel rail to one side. The hose with the white connector (nearest the front of the car) is the fuel feed whilst the green one (nearest rear of car) is the return. You do not want to get these mixed up as the car will not run!
6) Remove the pipe that goes from the crank case to in-between the manifold. This just pulls off from in-between the manifold but is clipped onto the crankcase.
Now, start unbolting the manifold. You will have 2 13mm nuts and 6 6mm allen key bolts. Some are fiddly to get to but can be done.
7) once the bolts are removed, pull the manifold away from the block but only carefully. There are still plugs connected! Remove the MAP sensor plug and the remaining vacuum hoses and then remove the manifold.
Wasn't that easy!
8) The map sensor wire needs to be relocated so it will reach on the new manifold. Remove the cable armouring and pull the cable back through to where the throttle body sensor wiring comes from. Make sure not to wrap it around any other wires or have it pulling really tight as this will result in broken wiring at some point!
9) Once you have returned the wiring armour, check to make sure everything is ok! Now is the ideal time to replace your started motor or even do your oil filter if you hate doing it from underneath where access is almost impossible!
10) place gasket onto block and offer manifold up. Now is where trial and error comes in. You might have some wires or pipes in the way. My power steering pipe was in the way but all i had to do was bend it by about 5mm and it was clear.
11) bolt manifold into place. You need to use your new bolts as the old ones will be too long.
12) take your injectors, grease up the seals on them and carefully wriggle them into the new fuel rail. Once in, fit the metal retaining clips and offer up to manifold. Gently wriggle into place and then with a bit of pressure, they should pop in. Bolt the rail down but don't over tighten as the manifold is only made of soft ally and will thread easily! (as i discovered!)
13)take your two lengths of fuel hose and fit to fuel rail with appropriate hose clips. The hoses want to be on the rail as far as possible and clipped down tight!
14) route the hose the same route as the old ones went making sure they won't rub on anything. offer up to the fuel lines on the strut and cut to length.
(8mm = fuel feed/Green connector
6mm = fuel return/white connector. Do not get these mixed up!)
15) Fit fuel hoses onto connectors on strut and tighten hose clips. Cable tie hoses out of the way so they won't chafe or get damaged.
16) Fit throttle body to manifold (4x long allen bolts) and connect all sensors back up being careful to make sure none are over stretched or chafing. Fit accelerator cable to throttle body.
17) when you removed your old manifold, you would have unplugged a hose that goes over to the drivers wing. This needs to be connected back up to the hose on the front of the throttle body (next to yellow plug). I used a new bit of hose for this but you could always use whats there.
18) reconnect brake servo hose. This is located differently on the gti manifold and so might be a bit fiddly fitting the hose but it does go on!
19) fit oil breather hose from throttle body to crank case.
20) Fir your induction kit/air box. Either way, you are going to have to make up some mounts so i can't really help here!) (if you are using a induction kit, you must have a breather filter on the hose coming from the ICV. If you are using the original air box, this will plug straight into the feed from the air box to the throttle body.)
21) Refit fuel relay and any other bits you may have removed. Have a good look over to make sure there is nothing missing and check everything is tight.
22) start car. Might be hard to start as first because fuel needs to be pumped along the new lines. It will be worth having someone there to watch the engine when starting to make sure there is no fuel squirting from a badly fitted hose/injector. if this is the case, turn the car off immediately and inspect.
Notes:
- I can't stress enough how important it is for the fuel hoses to be connected securely and properly. Make sure you buy proper fuel hose and not just any old rubber hose. If a hose pops off or a injector starts leaking because it was badly fitted, you could have a under bonnet fire and then thats good bye car and maybe good bye you!
- At the moment i am using the 3.2 bar FPR out of the 1.8 rail. I suggest you do the same to start with as this runs fine however i will be trailing the 4bar FPR from the gti rail in a few weeks.
- Please make sure all hoses and cables are securely out the way and not chafing. This manifold is a lot bigger than the old one so space is a lot tighter. Last thing you want is to break down because of a chafed wire somewhere!
- All sensors on the gti throttle body are the same as they are on the 1.8 one and so it doesn't matter which one you use.
- Make sure you use the 1.8 injectors. If you use the gti ones, it will run like shite unless you get a remap because more fuel will be being injected than the car thinks. This will also ruin your engine over time!
Hope this helps some people! Ive put a few photos of the finished thing here for reference and i will be adding some guide photos when i do my mates car in a few weeks.
Fuel line connection
Power steering pipe clearance
Update time
As promised I have FINALLY added some more photos
The hose you see to the right of this pic links to here
Fuel hose connections. Messy at the moment but does the job
Throttle body connections
If you need any more photos, give us a shout.
Team Eaton
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
![[Image: 20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-734...391753.jpg]](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d196/mattbush/20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-7340-0000058F46391753.jpg)
![[Image: GTi6Inlet09.jpg]](http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg47/Dum-Dum1986/Blue%20Cabby%20XSi/GTi6Inlet09.jpg)
![[Image: GTi6Inlet07.jpg]](http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg47/Dum-Dum1986/Blue%20Cabby%20XSi/GTi6Inlet07.jpg)
![[Image: GTi6Inlet08.jpg]](http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg47/Dum-Dum1986/Blue%20Cabby%20XSi/GTi6Inlet08.jpg)
)
