Air con pipes

[leew127]

Hi, i have just had my 2000 model 306 hdi to get its air con re gassed. It was found to be leaking from the double air con pipes at the front which i know is a common fault. These parts are no longer available from peugeot but they did tell me the part number was 646042.
Does anybody know where replacement pipes can be bought from?

[tigerstyle]

Where did you get the regas from? I'm guessing a KwikFit type place? If you see an aircon specialist they should be able to source or even make up the pipes. I'd love to know what they'd charge though!
I think very occasionally NOS (New Old Stock) Peugeot items come up on eBay too.

Mine failed a regass the other day, it didn't hold the vacuum, but I've no idea where it's leaking, can only guess the pipes or condenser, but an expensive business replacing them all just to see!

[Poodle]

I understand specialists are relatively good value, i think Niall has used one.

Whereabouts are you based?

[leew127]

Where did you get the regas from? I'm guessing a KwikFit type place? If you see an aircon specialist they should be able to source or even make up the pipes. I'd love to know what they'd charge though!
I think very occasionally NOS (New Old Stock) Peugeot items come up on eBay too.

Mine failed a regass the other day, it didn't hold the vacuum, but I've no idea where it's leaking, can only guess the pipes or condenser, but an expensive business replacing them all just to see!

No this was done at a local service centre.

---

I understand specialists are relatively good value, i think Niall has used one.

Whereabouts are you based?

Teesside.

[Poodle]

Ah ok, no use me recommending a local place then haha!

[Ican]

To give you some help this was my experience, I recently repaired mine after taking it for a regas at Kwikfit only to find it stopped working after 2 weeks they told me if I get it repaired they would regas it again for free.
I got a local fella to do leak test for free and it was found to be leaking from long pipe on the P clip, condensor and from the seals on the long pipe after the schrader valve 3 and 9.



He wanted over £300 to replace the condenser and £120 to replace all the pipes in the engine bay with rubber and reroute them around the battery tray, I declined.

There are various companys on the net that will do weld repairs on these pipes for around £25 a weld. A local company to me wanted £140 to replace the sections with ally pipe and regas and test.

Instead I took the two bottom pipes to Pirtek (the long and the short one 3 and 4) and had the sections with the p clips replaced with rubber for £77. Peugeot wanted £190 for both bottom pipes and trade discount would only be 5 to 10 % on these items, Part numbers: Long 6460-40 short 6457-WT. It should be noted that the connections at the end of these pipes are unique so there is no off the shelf non-oem pipes to be found.

I bought a new condensor from GSF for £53 using code "offer10" it turned out to be Valeo item. http://www.gsfcarparts.com/260pc0130

While you are at it you will also need to replace the receiver drier this is the one I bought and it fitted well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390590662773?s...1439.l2649

I replaced all the seals of the bits that I removed this kit seemed to cover all that I needed. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310354569645?s...1439.l2649

A spring clip tool is required to remove the pipes the long one and another from the condensor 2 and 3. I made my own from some 25mm and 20mm copper pipe I had which used to push back the garter spring to remove the pipe.

Total cost was around £210 to fix including the original cost off the Kwikfit regas.

You could just repair the double pipe but you might find that it will only be a matter of time before either or both the two bottom pipes and the condenser will also start to leak as well.

[Poodle]

Thanks for taking the time to update us, and in such a comprehensive manner as well, repped!

[Ican]

Thanks for taking the time to update us, and in such a comprehensive manner as well, repped!

Cheers fella.

[tigerstyle]

When you went into Pirtek did they look at you dead strange then reluctantly do the work anyway, was it dead easy for them to get the gist of what you needed?
In my kinds eye Pirtek are much more used to hydraulic farm equipment similar

£77 all in from them seems like a fair price for some bespoke work.

[Ican]

No not at all he had done loads of them and pretty much told me how he was going to do it so I left him to it.

[Piggy]

'Ican'...do you have any of those seals left? sell me a couple...?

[Ican]

'Ican'...do you have any of those seals left? sell me a couple...?

Ok pm me what you want and I will see if I can sort you out.

[Ricky]

Had mine re gassed a couple of days ago, yesterday I could hear a pressure noise like a leak and now it's not working

[Poodle]

Go and get your money back, they should pressure-test the system before regassing, it's a legal requirement due to the toxic nature of the gasses used.

[Piggy]

yeah...if you breath the gas in through a ciggarette it actualy becomes mustard gas...rather lethal!

[leew127]

To give you some help this was my experience, I recently repaired mine after taking it for a regas at Kwikfit only to find it stopped working after 2 weeks they told me if I get it repaired they would regas it again for free.
I got a local fella to do leak test for free and it was found to be leaking from long pipe on the P clip, condensor and from the seals on the long pipe after the schrader valve 3 and 9.



He wanted over £300 to replace the condenser and £120 to replace all the pipes in the engine bay with rubber and reroute them around the battery tray, I declined.

There are various companys on the net that will do weld repairs on these pipes for around £25 a weld. A local company to me wanted £140 to replace the sections with ally pipe and regas and test.

Instead I took the two bottom pipes to Pirtek (the long and the short one 3 and 4) and had the sections with the p clips replaced with rubber for £77. Peugeot wanted £190 for both bottom pipes and trade discount would only be 5 to 10 % on these items, Part numbers: Long 6460-40 short 6457-WT. It should be noted that the connections at the end of these pipes are unique so there is no off the shelf non-oem pipes to be found.

I bought a new condensor from GSF for £53 using code "offer10" it turned out to be Valeo item. http://www.gsfcarparts.com/260pc0130

While you are at it you will also need to replace the receiver drier this is the one I bought and it fitted well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390590662773?s...1439.l2649

I replaced all the seals of the bits that I removed this kit seemed to cover all that I needed. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310354569645?s...1439.l2649

A spring clip tool is required to remove the pipes the long one and another from the condensor 2 and 3. I made my own from some 25mm and 20mm copper pipe I had which used to push back the garter spring to remove the pipe.

Total cost was around £210 to fix including the original cost off the Kwikfit regas.

You could just repair the double pipe but you might find that it will only be a matter of time before either or both the two bottom pipes and the condenser will also start to leak as well.

Hi, thanks for the info you sent on the air con pipes. I have failed to source some direct replacement pipe so have contacted Pirtek as i have one local to me. They have said i will need to remove the pipes and send them to Reading where they can make some replacement rubber pipes, was that where you got yours done? The new rubber pipes you got for £77, were they complete with connectors fitted? It is looking like this is the root i will have to go down so anymore details on the process will be great.

[Ican]

Got mine done in Leyton in London dropped them off and collected the next day because they needed to order in some connections otherwise they can do them while you wait.

I asked them to remove the corroded lower portions of the pipes and replace them with rubber they decided how it was best do do it.

I would advise you to personally go in to see them and discuss how they are going to carry out the repair and if you are confident on what you hear and happy with the quote then go for it.

If it was a single hole and the pipe and was otherwise in a good condition I would have had it welded. These guys charge £20 per weld http://www.robertsfabrications.co.uk/air...epair.html

I have attached the receipt which actually totals £75 this lists the parts used to do the repair you can print it out and take it with you.

   

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When you say the double pipes are you referring to the pipe that runs along the engine bay rear bulkhead or are you referring to the two lower pipes from the compressor?

If it's the bulkhead pipe consider getting it welded if possible however for the lower pipes definitely replace the sections with rubber or a new pipe.

When my pipes were repaired they left lots of swarf inside which needs to be cleared out before connecting so you will need to check.

These guys quoted me £140 to replace both lower sections of pipes with ally and recharge the system if I hadn't used Pirtek I would have used them. http://www.turnerdiagnostics.co.uk/servi...pairs.html

[leew127]

Got mine done in Leyton in London dropped them off and collected the next day because they needed to order in some connections otherwise they can do them while you wait.

I asked them to remove the corroded lower portions of the pipes and replace them with rubber they decided how it was best do do it.

I would advise you to personally go in to see them and discuss how they are going to carry out the repair and if you are confident on what you hear and happy with the quote then go for it.

If it was a single hole and the pipe and was otherwise in a good condition I would have had it welded. These guys charge £20 per weld http://www.robertsfabrications.co.uk/air...epair.html

I have attached the receipt which actually totals £75 this lists the parts used to do the repair you can print it out and take it with you.

---

When you say the double pipes are you referring to the pipe that runs along the engine bay rear bulkhead or are you referring to the two lower pipes from the compressor?

If it's the bulkhead pipe consider getting it welded if possible however for the lower pipes definitely replace the sections with rubber or a new pipe.

When my pipes were repaired they left lots of swarf inside which needs to be cleared out before connecting so you will need to check.

These guys quoted me £140 to replace both lower sections of pipes with ally and recharge the system if I hadn't used Pirtek I would have used them. http://www.turnerdiagnostics.co.uk/servi...pairs.html

Thanks for that, i will forward your receipt to my local Pirtek as it is the two lower pipes that run from the compressor, attached with the metal clips along the cross member. Thanks again for your time. If i could ask one more thing, could you take a photo of the tool you made to remove the connectors, just so i can get some idea what i need, if that is not to cheeky.

[Ican]

I can't seem to find them now sorry. I made them out of some 20mm and 25mm copper tube they looked like this but with a slot cut to bend over the pipe.



They worked well however I would advise buying the proper tool I only made mine because I am impatient and I had 20mm and 25mm copper tube lying around.

Springlock coupler release tool can be bought cheap here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-SPRINGLOC...5d24a4b56f



Video on spring coupler removal. You should also blast loads of WD40 in there to remove any debris and lubricate the garter spring. When you change the seals do not use a metallic tool to remove them use a plastic pick or what I used a wooden tooth pick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKgQJ-RinXc

[C2K]

Got pics of your replaced pipework? How much hassle was it to remove them?

[Ican]

Got pics of your replaced pipework? How much hassle was it to remove them?

I you need to jack it up get, remove the undertray, front bumper, headlights and unbolt the slam panel. I disconnected the pipes from the compressor and the receiver drier and the upper springlock coupler.

With the slam panel pulled back there is a big enough gap to lift the condenser out with two attached pipes.

Refitting a new condenser and pipes will take a lot longer due to adjusting pipes to fit properly. Also you may find the condenser housing may need modding to get it to fit and also the lower pipe connection which I had to bend further than I liked.

                               

[Niall]

Not the tidiest way but certainly looks like it will work! Might have to take my last pipe to these guys payday!

[C2K]

Tempting to fix my aircon tbh as hdi isn't going anywhere.

[leew127]

Got mine done in Leyton in London dropped them off and collected the next day because they needed to order in some connections otherwise they can do them while you wait.

I asked them to remove the corroded lower portions of the pipes and replace them with rubber they decided how it was best do do it.

I would advise you to personally go in to see them and discuss how they are going to carry out the repair and if you are confident on what you hear and happy with the quote then go for it.

If it was a single hole and the pipe and was otherwise in a good condition I would have had it welded. These guys charge £20 per weld http://www.robertsfabrications.co.uk/air...epair.html

I have attached the receipt which actually totals £75 this lists the parts used to do the repair you can print it out and take it with you.

---

When you say the double pipes are you referring to the pipe that runs along the engine bay rear bulkhead or are you referring to the two lower pipes from the compressor?

If it's the bulkhead pipe consider getting it welded if possible however for the lower pipes definitely replace the sections with rubber or a new pipe.

When my pipes were repaired they left lots of swarf inside which needs to be cleared out before connecting so you will need to check.

These guys quoted me £140 to replace both lower sections of pipes with ally and recharge the system if I hadn't used Pirtek I would have used them. http://www.turnerdiagnostics.co.uk/servi...pairs.html

Thanks for all the info you gave me on this subject. I got both the lower pipes made at my local Pirtek. I got the long one replaced in rubber all the way to the bulkhead connection to remove as much aluminium and joint sections as possible to avoid further leaks. Not all good news though, when the pipes were replaced and the major leaks fixed, it was then noted the the condenser was leaking but due the leak in the system prior to that, this was not picked up at the initial test.

[Ican]

Thanks for all the info you gave me on this subject. I got both the lower pipes made at my local Pirtek. I got the long one replaced in rubber all the way to the bulkhead connection to remove as much aluminium and joint sections as possible to avoid further leaks. Not all good news though, when the pipes were replaced and the major leaks fixed, it was then noted the the condenser was leaking but due the leak in the system prior to that, this was not picked up at the initial test.

Your very welcome but that was bad luck for you.

I spoke to a few aircon specialist and they all said the lower pipes and condenser are the most common problems on the 306.
So it would appear (also taking our two examples in consideration) if one goes the others are most likely to follow sooner our later, in which case you are better off just doing the whole lot and being done with it.

Did you change the receiver drier as well?

[leew127]

Thanks for all the info you gave me on this subject. I got both the lower pipes made at my local Pirtek. I got the long one replaced in rubber all the way to the bulkhead connection to remove as much aluminium and joint sections as possible to avoid further leaks. Not all good news though, when the pipes were replaced and the major leaks fixed, it was then noted the the condenser was leaking but due the leak in the system prior to that, this was not picked up at the initial test.

Your very welcome but that was bad luck for you.

I spoke to a few aircon specialist and they all said the lower pipes and condenser are the most common problems on the 306.
So it would appear (also taking our two examples in consideration) if one goes the others are most likely to follow sooner our later, in which case you are better off just doing the whole lot and being done with it.

Did you change the receiver drier as well?

No i didn't change the receiver drier, once we got the pipes replaced and fitted i got the pressure test done to make sure the were not leaking and it was then when it was noticed the die coming from the condenser. I have saved the links you previously sent for the replacement condenser and drier so hopefully once these are done things should work fine. Just not looking forward to changing the condenser mind.