Flame Red S14 Zenki

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Flame Red S14 Zenki
#31
hows the car looking?? have you sorted the exhaust 'incident'??
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#32
this defo needs an update...are the G clamps holding?! Tongue
Wishes for more power...
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#33
(25-09-2013, 03:34 PM)mr_fish Wrote: hows the car looking?? have you sorted the exhaust 'incident'??

(25-09-2013, 05:30 PM)Piggy Wrote: this defo needs an update...are the G clamps holding?! Tongue

Hah..! Blush

In essence the manifold already had hardened studs in (that snapped en route to Forge Action Day at Combe). Bloody raccoons!

This meant it had to be sent to a machinery shop to be drilled out. I've ordered Apex studs, nuts etc which I'm still waiting for (despite paying £7/ra*e postage last Friday)!

Centre box being replaced for straight through pipe.

Also bought a fuel filter for it, "Colder" spark plugs and a driftworks handbrake button.

I'll update once it's back on the road (which will be Saturday at the latest).

Couple of pics:

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2)
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3)
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#34
Ouch, what in gods name did you hit??? Really bad pot hole or speed bump?
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#35
(25-09-2013, 10:30 PM)306Dan Wrote: Ouch, what in gods name did you hit??? Really bad pot hole or speed bump?

Pretty sure it was a raccoon!
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#36
Updated spec list, fingers crossed back on road today...!
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#37
Bought some coil overs as they were far too cheap to miss:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231063485410

God knows why sellers end auctions at 5AM. I'm not complaining!

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#38
Guess that means they listed it at 5am aswell? Nightshift worker i imagine :p

Oh well, bargain is a bargain!
Doesnt even own a 306.
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#39
Coil overs and spark plug fitted.

She's becoming more of a slag each week...

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#40
Looks shite mate lol
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the smokey old bus that sounds like a tractor...
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#41
(08-10-2013, 04:28 PM)devils_fuel Wrote: Looks shite mate lol

Don't get jelous.. Blush

At least when I sell it I can buy a chornic french piece of shit to replace it!

Desperately need 40-100mm spacers. How can I work out what the offset will be from the standard offset + spacer size?
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#42
Whatever size spacer you get, take that away from the offset of the wheels. Just get some different wheels! No after pics?
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#43
(09-10-2013, 11:28 AM)Curt Wrote: Whatever size spacer you get, take that away from the offset of the wheels. Just get some different wheels! No after pics?

Keeping standard wheels as they're cheap and cheerful! Would love some Rota's but don't see the point spunking over £800 on a set of wheels..
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#44
(09-10-2013, 11:23 AM)silverzx Wrote: Don't get jealous.. Blush

How can I be jealous of the wrong fuel...
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the smokey old bus that sounds like a tractor...
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#45
Becausemorepower
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#46
Couple pics of its current ride height, needs another 20mm on the front and the rear needs softening up a bit as it's solid. Solid mounts probably not helping either.

1)
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2)
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3)
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#47
I've had a few of these, they used to be really good value you could pickup a tired S14 for£200-£300, not so anymore the prices shot up once the drift scene took off, despite what some say the engines on these are excellent, the reason they fail is because people wind the boost up without bothering to sort the fuelling out this causes the det and ultimately kills the engine, with a mild tune to say 280 - 300bhp they are very reliable.
my last one also a red one below
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it ended up a proper monster, it had all the usual stuff walbro, de-cat, air filter etc plus , FMIC, GT2871r turbo, Nismo 550 injectors, Greddy boost controler, custom map from Horsham developments
http://www.h-dev.co.uk/index2.php?page=home
it was stripped out caged and making around 360bhp,with 888r tyres it was very fast, a good tip is to use 300zx twin turbo wheels they look similar to the OE wheel but are wider to you can get a 245 tyre on which helps contol the wheel spin plus they are cheap.
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the above is just before the cage want in,
it also had plenty of buttons and dails to play with Smile
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I'd have another but there's a lot of badly modded ones out there and they're soooo bloody expensive .
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#48
Hi "budd"! Looks good!

Yours sounds decent, pretty much all the mods id eventually like to have but I'd probably get a nicer she'll to start with!

It's a shame there so expensive, I paid almost 2 grand for mine with no mot etc. I can't see them dropping in price anytime soon though and I really enjoy driving it so I'm happy to pay the price!

Did you ever have problems with your brakes or did you go skyline/z32? Mine seem to seize up if I don't drive it for a few days very easily. Sad

I'll look into the z32 wheels, I wasn't aware of that so thanks for the tip! Smile

I love to write more but I'm at work on my phone!

Anyway, bit of an update, a turbo water line split which was extreme fun! I had to get a braided one fabricated and had fun fitting it in the dark last night after work.

The new line:
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The old line:
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Now I have braided oil feed and both water lines so hopefully I can ignore them for a while!
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#49
Your callipers shouldn’t be seizing up / sticking after been stood for such a short time, there’s obviously something amiss, I’d suggest they need a really good strip and re-build, if the car has been stood unused for a prolonged period of time before you bought it chances are there’s some corrosion on the pistons, OE pistons are chrome plated you can get away with cleaning them up if there is just slight pitting but if this coating is damaged to the point it’s flaking off then the only way to cure it is replace the pistons, service kits are available which come with stainless pistons and new seals etc not sure of cost I know the seals kits are cheap enough but the pistons may well be quite expensive, I was lucky I got away with some new seals and cleaning up the old pistons and the brakes never gave me any issues.

Not sure about the Skyline callipers but the Z32 ones are a direct replacement and been alloy a good deal lighter, so are a worthwhile replacement if you can get hold of some, try the Z32 owners forum someone may be selling some.

But the OE system is pretty good if it’s in good condition, when I bought my car it had EBC greenstuff pads in and they were dire, so I serviced the callipers, fitted Goodridge hoese,& Motul brake fluid, I also removed the ABS and fitted a bias valve depending on how the valve was adjusted it would lock the front tyres, rear tyres or all 4 and that was with Toyo 888s so there was no shortage of stopping power,
re brake pads, if you look at the OE disc you’ll no doubt see the OE pad doesn’t cover the whole disc the inner portion of the disc (nearest the hub) isn’t used, I thought that a bit of a waste, at the time I also Had Jag XJR and discovered that the Jaguar pad was very similar to the Nissan pad , but slightly bigger in a way that allowed it to cover all the Nissan disc, and as luck would have it I found a shop soiled set of Mintex 1155s on Ebay for very little money, a little bit of fettling they fitted perfect and further improved the brakes, I can’t remember the Mintex part no but I could look it up if required.

.
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#50
They were rebuilt when I had my MOT done so they should be fine! Perhaps the discs and pads are just getting a bit low..

I know the pistons are quite well known to get seized on these but I have a full set of spare calipers so maybe I'll just rebuild those.

I also have some discs that are basically brand new so could chuck those on and see what difference it makes.

The Z32 brakes are what everyone I know with them keeps rambling on about, those and an auto diff (3.9 instead of 3.7) so I'll keep an eye out.

That information about the Jag pads sounds interesting, I know what you mean, there is a good portion that doesn't contact the pad so it might be worth exploring that!

I don't really know where to go with it now. I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, maybe I'll treat it to some gauges, wheels and a 14a front end and just leave it at that. Oh and a de-mid box, oh and a flamer kit for lol's. Oh and Darrens old EBC eventually.

Damn cars..! Tongue
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#51
(01-11-2013, 11:41 AM)silverzx Wrote: They were rebuilt when I had my MOT done so they should be fine! Perhaps the discs and pads are just getting a bit low..

I know the pistons are quite well known to get seized on these but I have a full set of spare calipers so maybe I'll just rebuild those.

I also have some discs that are basically brand new so could chuck those on and see what difference it makes.

The Z32 brakes are what everyone I know with them keeps rambling on about, those and an auto diff (3.9 instead of 3.7) so I'll keep an eye out.

That information about the Jag pads sounds interesting, I know what you mean, there is a good portion that doesn't contact the pad so it might be worth exploring that!

I don't really know where to go with it now. I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, maybe I'll treat it to some gauges, wheels and a 14a front end and just leave it at that. Oh and a de-mid box, oh and a flamer kit for lol's. Oh and Darrens old EBC eventually.

Damn cars..! Tongue

the only benifit of the Z32 caliper is that it's alloy so lowers the unsprung weight, which is definitely worthwhile if you can get hold of a good set for decent money.

I know it's easy for the spend on mods to get out of control, this is escpecially true of the S14 lots of nice stuff avaiable and they are very easy to tune you can get up to big power outputs before it's necessary to build a forged bottom end, if I were in your postition I'd speak to Jez at H-dev tell what you've got and what you'd like he'll point you in the right direction, the most important thing with turbo engines is to make sure the fuelling is right, adding a de-cat, FMCI, induction kit etc all change the fuelling requirements, the Nissan ECU as got a certain amount of 'self learning' ability and can adopt to some changers but it's definitely better to fit a re-mapped eprom matched to the mods, the H-dev ECU upgrades aren't expensive IIRC around £150-160, also Jez will let you trade in a stage 1 chip for a stage 2 and so on when you change something or need more power.
The stage one chip is great value and gives a big power increase per £ and won't unduly tax the chassis and running gear although if your clutch is anything less than tip top it will kill it pretty quick, if your planning over 300bhp then best fit a paddle clutch as even a good organic plate will struggle to cope with the torque.
The SXOC forum is a good source of info,
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#52
For anyone interested here is my current dilema:

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?5...s-of-Power

Basically it's running like a sack of shit very suddenly.

I've been told the spark plugs could need re-gapping / adjusting.

I've also been told it could be coil packs, dirty MAF or lambada sensor.

I'm changing the spark plugs back to my old ones later tonight to see if it fixes it, if it does i'll then take the copper ones to be re gapped at work tomorrow.
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#53
Could well be a spark problem, reduce the gap a bit and try again. And lol at the people suggesting your epix boost is blowing out the spark, physics fail.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#54
Looks well, is there a brand name on the box of the coilovers?
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#55
(21-11-2013, 09:18 PM)Poodle Wrote: Could well be a spark problem, reduce the gap a bit and try again. And lol at the people suggesting your epix boost is blowing out the spark, physics fail.

It's not the spark plugs, ruled that out.

Also cleaned the MAF its not that.

It's like its fuel cutting at 3,500 RPM.

You can redline it in neutral without a problem..

(21-11-2013, 10:07 PM)ConorTRG Wrote: Looks well, is there a brand name on the box of the coilovers?

Uhh can't remember mate, pretty sure they're ToyoSport ones.
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#56
Do these have a map sensor as well?
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#57
(22-11-2013, 11:49 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: Do these have a map sensor as well?

Map sensor....? Huh
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#58
Similar to a MAF mate. It may or may not.. If it's fuel cutting though then it sounds like something is making it run way too lean, they only cut fuel to protect it from melting the pistons.. Is it a proper map or a chip (can't remember!) you've got on this?
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#59
(22-11-2013, 11:55 AM)Midnightclub Wrote: Similar to a MAF mate. It may or may not.. If it's fuel cutting though then it sounds like something is making it run way too lean, they only cut fuel to protect it from melting the pistons.. Is it a proper map or a chip (can't remember!) you've got on this?

Standard ECU as far as I'm aware.

Been running fine at 17 PSI for last 6 months..
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#60
If that's the case.. i'd put the boost back to stock and knock off that adjustable fuel reg.. if it hasn't been mapped/chipped etc.. you really don't want to be increasing the boost. It may have 'been running fine' but i really wouldn't..
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