Guide; HDi Servicing

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Guide; HDi Servicing
#1
HDi Service and K&N Guide.

This is the guide of how to service a HDi although the principal hardly changes for most 306s. I was sure it was that easy anyone could do it I made my girlfriend do it.

Right the tools you need are as pictured below and youll also need a screwdriver. They are a ratchet with 21mm and 22mm sockets, 10mm and 13mm spanners to remove the under tray (if you have one), Oil filter pliers or similar and some pliers.
[Image: ServiceTools.jpg]




The parts you will need are;
5L of 5w40 Fully synthetic motor oil (10w40 semi synthetic will do if your tight) â?? Total Quartz 9000 5w40 5L is Pug part number 0000 12 and £28.54 +VAT at time of writing
Oil filter - Pug part number 1109 AL £8.91 +VAT at time of writing
Sump Plug Washer â?? Only costs a few pennies.
Fuel filter â?? Pug part number 1906 A1 £15.61 +VAT at time of writing
Air Filter we used a K&N for extra power

Although I have put the unit prices it is possible to get a 10% discount on these if you ask nicely at your local dealer.


The sundries you will need are;
An old (and disposable) washing up bowl
A 2l coke bottle to use as a funnel
A good handful of old rags
An old newspaper
Some disposable latex gloves as used motor oil is carcinogenic and diesel aint great for your skin.


Oil and Filter Change
Ill start by saying that this is far easier on a car without Air Con but not difficult even with the AC in place. Well start with this as the car needs to be warm to do it. Take the car out for a good drive to get it up to temperature as the oil thins as it gets hot and this means it drains out a lot more thoroughly. As soon as you get back jack the front of the car up and support it on stands (see jacking guide).

Put your rubber gloves on. Unbolt the under tray if you have one, 3 x 10mm bolts at the front, 2 x 13mm bolts near the rear and 3 clips at the sides that you need to turn 90*.

Look up at the sump (bottom of the engine) and youâ??ll see 2 bolts centrally at the back, one above each other. Position the empty washing up bowl underneath these ready to catch the oil and start undoing the lower bolt (the sump plug) using the ratchet and a 21/22mm socket (forgotten which). Once Itâ??s loose undo it by hand but be ready to pull the sump plug away sharply to save rummaging around in the oil to find it later.

[Image: Oil01.jpg]


Allow all the oil to drain from the sump and then have a look at the sump plug you removed it will probably have an orange metal washer (the sump plug washer) stuck to the head, if so remove it and fit the new one. If not have a look at the sump and see if itâ??s stuck there and remove it if it is. If you still canâ??t find it donâ??t worry, itâ??s either fallen in to the oil or the last person to service your car was an idiot.

Give the sump a quick wipe with a rag to remove any stray oil and then screw the sump plug with its shiny new washer back in and do it up. Probably about as tight as it was before is a good bet as weâ??ll assume you donâ??t have a torque wrench.

Next move the bowl of oil forwards and well start on the oil filter. The oil filter will be a blue, black or white cylinder sticking out from the front of the engine. You can get at this from the top if you lift out the coolant header tank or from underneath if you donâ??t have air con. Once youâ??ve unscrewed it about a turn with the pliers/wrench youâ??ll be able to undo it by hand but be aware it will be full of oil. Pour the oil out of it and wrap it in newspaper to soak up any extra.
Top pic is from the top and bottom pic is from the bottom.
[Image: Oil03.jpg]
[Image: Oil02.jpg]


Once oil has finished running out clean up with some rags and make sure you clean the mounting face where the filter sits. Get your new oil filter and wipe a smear of the old oil around the rubber mounting seal. This helps it to make a good seal. Screw the new filter back on. Most people say hand tight is enough but some places suggest hand tight plus a quarter turn with a tool. Id say if your weak go hand tight plus a ¼ and if your strong then hand tight is fine.

Stick your under tray back on and lower the car back to the ground. Pour about 4L of oil into the oil filler back of the engine bay on the left.
[Image: Oil04.jpg]


Give it a couple of minutes to run down to the sump and check the dip stick. If itâ??s not between the 2 marks then top it up gradually till it is. As a hint itâ??s about 1l of oil between the minimum and maximum marks and Pug say it takes 4.51L of oil to fill the HDi engine up.

Once the oil is between the marks start the engine. DO NOT REV IT! Let it run for a minute or so then shut it off and give it a minute for the oil to run back down to the sump. Check the dipstick again as the oil filter will of absorbed some oil and so top up appropriately. I like mine to be near to the maximum as then there is more oil for the contaminants to be shared between and also as the oil cools the turbo if theres more of it then on average it should be cooler.

If youâ??ve almost finished the bottle of oil then use you coke bottle funnel in the top of the oil bottle and pour your old oil back into that bottle. Use the sight glass on the side of the bottle to make sure your not gonna over fill it. If you run out of room any old empty plastic bottle will do.

Dispose of the rags, bowl and oil filter at your local tip (as the bin men wont take it by me) and take your oil to an appropriate disposal site (see environment agency web site) but your local tip should have a tank for it and your local garage might be nice enough to let you use theirs. Some councils (I know Hounslow does) will take used engine oil in bottles as part of their kerbside recycling.


Fuel Filter Change
Get a new set of gloves for this as its very important to keep it all clean. Your looking for a vertical black canister at the front of the engine bay near the middle at the top, itâ??s got 2 pipes coming out of the top of it, one going to the left and one to the right as well as more pipes coming out the bottom. Look low down on the front of the canister and youll see a black thumb screw and a hose coming down from it. Use the other half of your coke bottle placed down in the engine bay with the hose dangled into it to catch the fuel run that comes out. Use your pliers to unscrew the thumbscrew as its unlikely youll get it undone by hand. No fuel will come out for now.

Back to the 2 hoses at the top press the green or white bit of the clip in and then pull off. Once these are removed use your 21/22mm socket on the nut thatâ??s between the 2 hoses to unscrew the lid. These can be fragile so you need to be careful. Apply the pressure slowly and progressively and itll come off eventually.
[Image: Fuel01.jpg]


Youll now see a little fuel coming out the bottom. When we lifted the lid the fliter came out with it.
[Image: Fuel02.jpg]


Remove the filter but make sure you catch the lumpy yellow metal ring as this is important.
[Image: Fuel04.jpg]


There is also a large rubber O ring around the top of the canister, you should have a new one with your new filter so swap them over.
[Image: Fuel03.jpg]


Stick the new filter in the canister, itâ??ll only go in one way. Put the lumpy metal ring on top, do the thumb screw back up. Then replace the lid, again do the lid back up smoothly and progressively till you feel it hit home. The pipes just click back on the top. Remove your jug of fuel, if its clean you can pour it back into your tank.

When you go to start the car turn the ignition on and youâ??ll hear the fuel glug forward, do this a couple of times and then try to start the car. If it doesnâ??t start cycle the fuel pump a few more times to prime the system and then try to start again.





Air Filter / K&N Panel Filter
This is dead easy and the same for a K&N or a standard filter. Unscrew all the screws round the top of the sir box, theres 7 of them and they wonâ??t come all the way out so you canâ??t loose them, lift the lid and lift the old filter out, hoover all the shit out the bottom of the air box. Drop the new filter into the track with the sticky out bits down, make sure its sitting flat, screw the lid back down, add your K&N sticker if you got one. Job done.

[Image: Air01.jpg]
[Image: Air02.jpg]
[Image: Air03.jpg]
[Image: Air04.jpg]
[Image: Air05.jpg]








Service counter reset
If you press and hold the trip reset button on the speedo and then turn the ignition on the car will count down from 10 to 0 and this will reset tour service indicator so you can start on another 12000 happy miles. If your car has never had the counter reset then you may need to do this a few times.
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#2
Is it definitely 5w40 for the engine oil?

Emailed local dealers and they are recommending 5w30 lol
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#3
^

5w40 for the higher performance HDI's and 10W40 if standard, either will do, certainly not 5W30
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#4
ace!
as a personal preference, I use a webbing strap-wrench on a rachet extension around the top of the fuel filer.
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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#5
This isn't a "service"!
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#6
This is a very comprehensive service when measured against the value of one "dum-dum". Wink
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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