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Hey guys. When we did my lowering I think we left a washer out on the drivers side. I know its ok to unbolt the top mount from the shell without compressors etc because the strut is all one unit. Is it possible to remove the strut nut, put the washer in and then put the nut back on without compressors? In my mind the car is pressing down on the springs so it should be safe to do it? Then again i might have majorly missed something. Thought id ask before i take off half my face!
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yes mate. as you say it's all one unit . . . . . .
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Yep, i've done that loads of times. Not sure if it's really safe but I do it
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although which washer do you mean? . . . . .i'm just trying to picture it
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28-06-2012, 10:10 AM
(This post was last modified: 28-06-2012, 10:14 AM by Toms306.)
There should be two washers right, one either side of the 'cup' thing that sits right on top............think we may have missed one of these out!
http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/doc...refaff=N5C 5 50A05A&idFct=FCT0025
70 and 71 on there are both washers...........its one of them thats missed.
I can't work out if you take the strut top nut off, if the spring will push that corner of the car up enough so that the damper rod is under the top mount....then you wouldn't be able to get the nut back on obv. I can't really picture it in my mind atm.
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(28-06-2012, 10:10 AM)Toms306 Wrote: There should be two washers right, one either side of the 'cup' thing that sits right on top............think we may have missed one of these out!
tut tut lol . . . . .yeah i think so mate iirc . . .
one on top isn't a problem but i think the one underneath is part of the strut assembly, meaning you'd need spring compressors .
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You'll be ok as long as you don't f*ck around for ages. I rarely got the damper creeping enough to not get the nut back on
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28-06-2012, 10:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 28-06-2012, 10:18 AM by Toms306.)
See my edit Matt.....I can't remember which one is missed tbh.
Ah ok Chris, well I'll leave it up to Sam lol.
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Jack the car up first and put a set of mole grips on the damper shaft between the srping and it wont creep down. I went in for tea once and left the nut off came back out and the shaft had gone lol
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why not remove the nut and then slowly jack the car up thus letting the pressure off the spring slowly............
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(28-06-2012, 10:28 AM)mark_airey Wrote: why not remove the nut and then slowly jack the car up thus letting the pressure off the spring slowly............
Am I missing something Mark? We're trying to avoid letting pressure off the spring....
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Well if you have missed the washer out from under the mount cup how do you plan on getting that back on without taking the pressure off the spring??
the only washer you could replace without taking off the pressure would be the top washer directly under the top nut........
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(28-06-2012, 11:02 AM)mark_airey Wrote: Well if you have missed the washer out from under the mount cup how do you plan on getting that back on without taking the pressure off the spring??
the only washer you could replace without taking off the pressure would be the top washer directly under the top nut........
I cant remember which one is missing..............but if the pressures off the spring, he wont be able to get it back together will he.
Are the washers even needed lol?? Id be more worried about the big rusty hole/crack in the damper spring seat personnally lol.
Only problem is the cup is rattling atm......but it wont affect anything apart from making a noise I don't think?
Might aswell just leave it until he gets new dampers I'd have thought.
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what would stop you lowering it back down onto the spring again once you have fitted the washer?
Granted it could be a bit of a PITA to line it back up but it should be pretty easy to do.............. just stick a long allen key into the hole in the top of the strut and use that to guide it back into place...............
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Tom. If you have missed to lower washer (which it sounds like) it is an issue. As the damper shaft could pull through the top mount. Making the top nut useles as it will run out of thread and you will bot be able to tighten it enough to stop the cup rattling. And may also damage the top mount and make it usless. And i imagin it would effect handling some what as the shock will be moving in the top mount.
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OK,
Washer 71 would be easily replaced with car just as it is - no jacking up required - in fact it would make it little to no difference. You're not releasing the top-mount from the car's chassis so the damper should be at a decent amount of travel already. Jacking the car up shouldn't make any difference because (provided your shocks aren't f*cked) the damper rod should extend with the additional travel of the wheel.
If it's the washer between the top mount and the bumpstop which is missing then I can't see how you'd replace that without getting the shock out again...
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Just take the shock out. It's not hard, and not very time consuming. If its been out recently then the bolts etc should still be loose(by loose I mean not seized)
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(28-06-2012, 03:52 PM)Matt Wrote: Just take the shock out. It's not hard, and not very time consuming. If its been out recently then the bolts etc should still be loose(by loose I mean not seized)
The problem is that sam doesn't have spring compressors lol, we used mine last time.........
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ill look at the diagram and see if its one of the top ones... If its a bottom one then i dont have time before pugfest to sort it out and as tom said the fact one of my shocks is rusted through to the point you can see daylight through the spring seat, is much more of a problem!
Tom if I get new shocks after payday we will just have to do it properly then! :p
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(29-06-2012, 09:29 AM)SRowell Wrote: Tom if I get new shocks after payday we will just have to do it properly then! :p
Thats probably the best idea lol..........I wouldn't even worry about the rattle tbh.
Btw its payday today........
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(29-06-2012, 09:29 AM)SRowell Wrote: ill look at the diagram and see if its one of the top ones... If its a bottom one then i dont have time before pugfest to sort it out and as tom said the fact one of my shocks is rusted through to the point you can see daylight through the spring seat, is much more of a problem!
Tom if I get new shocks after payday we will just have to do it properly then! :p
Do you want to buy some <90k gti shocks? Can bring them to pugfest
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(29-06-2012, 11:30 AM)puglove Wrote: (29-06-2012, 09:29 AM)SRowell Wrote: ill look at the diagram and see if its one of the top ones... If its a bottom one then i dont have time before pugfest to sort it out and as tom said the fact one of my shocks is rusted through to the point you can see daylight through the spring seat, is much more of a problem!
Tom if I get new shocks after payday we will just have to do it properly then! :p
Do you want to buy some <90k gti shocks? Can bring them to pugfest
Would they be alright with 60mm lowering springs?
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Ed clark ran his dt on 60mm gti springs on gti shocks for years with no problems so i cant see why not?
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(29-06-2012, 12:50 PM)puglove Wrote: Ed clark ran his dt on 60mm gti springs on gti shocks for years with no problems so i cant see why not?
Who lol??
And fair enough, I just thought 40mm was lowest you could go with standard shocks but if 60s ok then go for it Sam......as long as they aren't rusty with holes in.
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29-06-2012, 01:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-06-2012, 01:47 PM by mark_airey.)
(29-06-2012, 01:13 PM)Toms306 Wrote: (29-06-2012, 12:50 PM)puglove Wrote: Ed clark ran his dt on 60mm gti springs on gti shocks for years with no problems so i cant see why not?
Who lol??
And fair enough, I just thought 40mm was lowest you could go with standard shocks but if 60s ok then go for it Sam......as long as they aren't rusty with holes in.
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What mark said
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Ah right....yeah I know the car and the screen name lol.....I'm rubbish with real names though.
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Puglove how much are you wanting? If Sam doesn't have em I might
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yeh how much do you want for them? May well be interested!
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Dunno £25?
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