D Turbo Guides: Injector Leak off's

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D Turbo Guides: Injector Leak off's
#1
Quick guide for changing injector leak off's. Some of this may apply to other models such as the NAD but this guide is aimed at the DT so adjust to suit.

Symptoms: Rough starting, Low on power, Smell of diesel, Slightly low economy.

Cause: Air getting in/fuel getting out.

Tools needed: 6mm allen key, 13mm socket, stanley knife Flat head screwdriver.

Parts needed: Fuel leak off hose (1m), End cap, d-seal.

First thing is to pop the bonnet and get the top mount out of the way, this is done by removing the 3 allen bolts along the back and if you still have them the 2 bolts at the front in each corner, I chucked these years ago as they are not essential.

[Image: img20120428164059.jpg]
[Image: img20120428164109.jpg]
[Image: img20120428164113.jpg]

You will also need to loosen the jubilee clip on the main boost hose and remove the small boost compensator hose from the bottom.

[Image: img20120428164103.jpg]

Gently persuade the ic off and put somewhere safe. You will probably see diesel around one or more injectors at this point, mine had split completely on the pump side and had pissed diesel everywhere and also perished around the first injector. The rest were all completely dry but it is always good practice to replace the lot, especially as the stuff is so cheap.

[Image: img20120428164420.jpg]
[Image: img20120428164451.jpg]

You will now have access to the injector leak off pipes, they need to be removed one by one, I used each one as a template to cut from the new stuff. When removing them, if like mine and have never been replaced they may be fookin stiff, I used the stanley to cut a slit up from the bottom then worked them loose. After all of your new pipes are in bang on the end cap.

[Image: img20120428165627.jpg]

You will now need to prime your diesel system and listen/check for leaks, if all ok replace the intercooler. A new d-seal should be used whenever the ic is removed from the engine to ensure there are no new boost leaks when it all goes back together.

Done.
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#2
where did you source the leak off pipe? I only ever see the braided stuff which lasts approx five minutes (on bio anyway).
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#3
zx_volcane Wrote:where did you source the leak off pipe? I only ever see the braided stuff which lasts approx five minutes (on bio anyway).

Local factors, £4.97 per meter.
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#4
Is there any set way in which the pipes need to be fitted or do they just leak out if both prongs or is one an input and one an out?
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#5
Nath140889 Wrote:Is there any set way in which the pipes need to be fitted or do they just leak out if both prongs or is one an input and one an out?
Tbh i'm not too sure, I just put them back in the reverse order I took the off. Better safe tban sorry!
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#6
Whats the id of the hose u used cheers.
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#7
As for priming the system, is just by using the grenade primer? nothing else?

Also, if im changing the injector, is it the same method for priming?
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#8
Ginge, if you're changing injectors, slacken the unions off at the injectors and turn it over a couple of times til fuel comes out, then tighten up. I think.
[Image: signature_zps1a02ba79.jpg]
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#9
Internal diameter for leak off pipe is 3.4mm, although we used 4mm on JAkes car at it was still a snug fit and works fine.

As for what order to put the leak off pipes on, it makes no difference at all. As long as one injector has a blank and another injector has the long pipe back to the fuel pump! Smile
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#10
Dan! Wrote:Internal diameter for leak off pipe is 3.4mm, although we used 4mm on JAkes car at it was still a snug fit and works fine.

As for what order to put the leak off pipes on, it makes no difference at all. As long as one injector has a blank and another injector has the long pipe back to the fuel pump! Smile
^This. Cheers Dan.
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#11
cwspellowe Wrote:Ginge, if you're changing injectors, slacken the unions off at the injectors and turn it over a couple of times til fuel comes out, then tighten up. I think.

don't mean to sound stupid, but where/what is the union?

I've searched for any images but found nothing?

any help on this image?

[Image: YpPbm.jpg]
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#12
The 'union' is the nut which bolts to the top of the injector, holding the injector line to the injector Smile
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#13
...so pretty much the nut which that arrow in the image is point to Doh
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#14
No? lol The nut which isnt at all in that photo, which bolts to the threaded section at the top of the injector.
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#15
Dan! Wrote:No? lol The nut which isnt at all in that photo, which bolts to the threaded section at the top of the injector.

:|

hm ok.. i only thought this as Dave said in a previous thread, that i could have a leaky 'union' but the top half of the injector showing, is bone dry, it's just the bottom half.

I bought some new seals, see if they help
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#16
The union is the nut on the injector line that fastens it to the injector. Just the same as you could have a leaky brake line union, works in the same way.
[Image: signature_zps1a02ba79.jpg]
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#17
moved over here to not spam this guide <!-- l --><a class="postlink-local" href="http://www.306oc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3335" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;">viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3335</a><!-- l -->
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#18
Would 3,4mm internal work just fine for the fuel pipe lines?

Thanks Smile
[Image: 62941977.jpg]
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