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As the title says really, anybody got a Haynes they can take a photo of or copy the info onto here for me? Tried searching google and pug306 (why did I even bother?!  ) but found nothing....
At a guess for the tightening sequence, id say its something like....
9 3 1 6 8
7 5 2 4 10
So pretty much working from the middle out, and go diagonally from left to right and right to left, correct?
Thanks, Dan.
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The torques go as so:
Pre-Tighten to 20 NM. Tighten a further 60 NM. Tighten a further 220°
That order is pretty much there, it's not 10000% imperitive on the order, as long as you don't do all the back ones, then all the front ones, or similar, it'd be fine...
EDIT:
It's:
8 4 1 5 9
7 3 2 6 10
Imagine it in a spiral outwards...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.  Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Cheers Ruan.
Just found an answer on wiki answers, obviously cant take that as 100% true but it says
10 6 2 3 7
09 5 1 4 8
Which isnt far off what I meant, just that goes clockwise, working outwards.
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Oh and potential silly question here....
Is it worth putting an additional 20° or so on each bolt considering the head will be up against probably double standard boost and generally higher cylinder pressures, or not?
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This is what I had :
Order-
8. 4. 1. 5. 9
7. 3. 2. 6. 10
Torque-
Stage one- 20Nm/15lbf ft
Stage two- 60Nm/44lbf ft
Stage three- Tighten 180 degrees
On the 306 waiting list.
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Toxic-Jake Wrote:This is what I had :
Order-
8. 4. 1. 5. 9
7. 3. 2. 6. 10
Torque-
Stage one- 20Nm/15lbf ft
Stage two- 60Nm/44lbf ft
Stage three- Tighten 180 degrees
That's pretty much what Ruan said ^^ but as Ruan said, last stage should be 220* (and a bit, just make sure they are all the same)
And again, it doesn't really matter on the specific order of tightening as long as you start in the middle and sprial out as both Ruans and Dans second one do 
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Won't do anything... The bolts are stretching with that final 220*, you won't get any more clamping force, you'll just stretch them to more plastic deformation... Leave them, if they give problems, then give it another 90*... That's what I've done...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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both the same . . . . . .
apart from your first guess Dan which is toss . . 
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Righto, cheers all!
The head is currently on the engine but none of the bolts are tight yet because we ran out of sunshine last night. Tonights job is to get them all tightened and then crack on with putting the rest of it back together! :o
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Good lad.
Was the head OK in the end, I haven't read the thread...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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Yeah it seems fine. Precups on cylinders 2 and 3 still have tiny cracks in them but it pressure tested fine!
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As Ruan said, Leave plenty of stretch left in the bolts for when you end up stretching the cocks in situe!
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50 used spare bolts, bang them all down with breaker, job done. If it yields swap out replace with non-f*cked bolt...
All seriousness, ^ what everyone else has said...
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I wouldnt expect anything less from you Dave
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I have done mine like that before... and it has been fine
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Dave Wrote:I have done mine like that before... and it has been fine
Ruan called me a Pikey for re-using head bolts Mine has also been fine.........
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Says the guy who is a paid up member of Team Orange Engine Bay
xx
It's pretty pikey for the sake of £12 for a set of bolts... The ballache involved if it's too stretched and you only realise when you've shagged the gasket is not worth £12 IMO.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Fingertight
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Quick question while were all here talking about it........
If some uprated headbolts were to become available in a few weeks/months time, would it be possible to replace the current ones if you removed and replaced the bolts one at a time?
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Ruan Wrote:Says the guy who is a paid up member of Team Orange Engine Bay
xx
It's pretty pikey for the sake of £12 for a set of bolts... The ballache involved if it's too stretched and you only realise when you've shagged the gasket is not worth £12 IMO.
Shhhhh...............it seems to be OK for now 
Dan! Wrote:Quick question while were all here talking about it........
If some uprated headbolts were to become available in a few weeks/months time, would it be possible to replace the current ones if you removed and replaced the bolts one at a time?
not really no, you would have to do the gasket again really!
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Mmm, thought as much. PITA.
I just got the idea from people replacing split rim bolts one at a time to save having to completely strip/re-build the wheel.
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Nah, it's fine, replace them one at a time and it's no problem, long as you do it up correctly again, it'll be fine...
I've replaced the bolts on their own in mine from when I've stretched them too much, once you put in new ones it's fine again...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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You can always tell when you've overtightened a bolt, and i've overtightened many headbolts before... I probably scrap 3 or 4 off when tightening down just to get it on the edge... but they are all used so who gives a f*ck, and then never have an issue after that.
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