Door Loom Swapped - Central Locking Fault!

[partybish]

Hi guys,

I've just finished rewiring my driver's door loom with a brand new replacement loom using Cully's guide which was massively helpful.  A couple of the wires were broken before and now it's repaired all of the electrics work except the driver's side central locking (which was working fine before I started the job?!).

All the following functions work on both doors: windows, speakers, electric mirrors
When I lock the driver's side door with the key both doors and the boot lock. 
When I press 'lock' on the fob the passenger door lock goes down then up and the boot makes a noise like it is trying to lock.  The driver's door lock does nothing (no noise, no movement).
If I lock the doors with the key and press 'open' on the fob the passenger and the boot door unlock (the driver's side does nothing)

Things I've checked: 
All the fuses are OK
I've checked the continuity between the door plug and all the wires that are inside the driver's door skin that are going towards the door lock mechanism to identify that they are definitely pins 9, 10, 11, 12, 16, 17, 18 & 19 as per the table in the pic
I've tried a few combinations of swapping/changing the wires coming from the A pillar into the new loom (changing one wire at a time and testing things).
   
For reference this is how I have wired up the A pillar wires to the wires in the new loom (btw the numbers in the middle row e.g. A275, 606 etc don't bear any resemblance to the numbers on the wires coming out of the A pillar, I just copied these from Cully's guide in case they were going to be of use):
   

Possible problems:
I've got the wires coming from the A pillar wired into the replacement loom wrong (I'd say this feels most likely, I don't think power is getting to the driver's door lock)
The driver's solenoid has broken (I'm wondering if I've caused it to short out/break)
The door isn't properly bolted back on yet so the door sensor is out (unlikely as the door still closes properly even without the bolts back in it).

Also the washer jets just stopped projecting water recently - I doubt it has anything to do with it but I mention just in case.

Any advice or help would be really appreciated on what to try next to work out the fault - I really want to get this sorted out so I can put the loom back into the door and start using the car again.  I have a multimeter but have only learnt how to use it for continuity so far - the trouble is I don't know which wire from each of the PINs mentioned above does what.

Cheers

[partybish]

Can’t for the life of me figure out what’s up with this, there’s continuity in all the wires from the a pillar to the inner door and I’m 90% sure they are the right connectionsbecause swapping them over stops other electrics working?! Is it possible to bypass the central locking unit in a phase 3, and if so is the central locking unit under the carpet under the driver’s seat?

[paulgtt]

I can't really be of much help as I'm stripping all my wiring out and it's not going back in but the central locking unit is under the driver side rear seat.

[welshpug]

if it locks when you use the key and all doors lock then the switches are fine inside the mechanism, but if one is not working on the fob then there's a wiring or solenoid problem.

[cully]

that drawing is for a ph3 car with the locking box in the centre dash console under the clock temp display

ph2 locking box is under the rear bench seat and the wiring is very different to the ph3

i would suggest rechecking your joints as i suspect you have mixed up some of the same colour wires
Peugeot use wire numbers printed on the cables as tracers not insulation colour hence multiple cables of the same colour

[partybish]

Thanks guys, I;d be very surprised if it's the solenoid unless me rewiring has caused it to break.  I reckon it's mixed up wires and I've tested the continuity/functionality of quite a few of them and narrowed it a bit:

   

I will have to try every possible ramification as a worst case but based on the above can anyone offer any further clues on which coloured wire going to the door lock does what e.g. is one of the wires the connection to the RF for example and therefore what could be causing the driver's lock not to close with the key?

[paulgtt]

Just while we are on this subject does anyone know how to unplug the wiring from the door lock?
As it's inside the door it's difficult to see, I can't feel any tabs to press so is it just a case of brute force

[partybish]

Managed to sort this now, did a pulse test on the wires into the solenoid and it turns out I had the two red wires - pins 6 and 10 mixed up. I originally ruled this out because PIN6 was routed to the speaker and it worked but they're both live feeds....doh!

New loom in and all electrics working for the first time ever since I got the car!! :o) Time to take on the air con next!

Just while we are on this subject does anyone know how to unplug the wiring from the door lock?
As it's inside the door it's difficult to see, I can't feel any tabs to press so is it just a case of brute force

There is a red/orange tab on top of the door lock plug plug that you have to get a screwdriver under and lift it up, the plug will then pull off. When you put it back on examine the plug and you can see that the tab slides down diagonally pulling into place.

[paulgtt]

Thanks for that il give it another go tomorrow.
Glad you got yours sorted