Head unit radio reception (Phase 3)

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Head unit radio reception (Phase 3)
#31
After reading this, i still do not understand.

If i buy this
[Image: Car-font-b-Antenna-b-font-Radio-font-b-F...lifier.jpg]

And this
[Image: %24(KGrHqJHJEEFE3s)MdO8BRjIqFhS6Q~~60_57.JPG]

What cable do I connect to where?
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#32
Bit of a thread resurrection but I'm at the same point - how would I wire up an LM317 to an aerial booster like the one pictured above. If buying a phase 1 aerial is easiest then that's probably the route I'll go down.
190k Moonstone 3dr HDI sold
..on the lookout for a 6/rallye

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#33
Phase 1 aerial is the easiest but you might not be able to unscrew it from the base.


I've just bought that little step down regulator so when it arrives on the slow boat from China I'll do a little guide.
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#34
odd.
when I inscrewed the base for the respray, there was only the aerial lead held on by a nut underneath.
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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#35
Thanks Dee, I'll wait for your guide then, need to wire in my speakers, crossover, amp and sub so the radio can wait!
190k Moonstone 3dr HDI sold
..on the lookout for a 6/rallye

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#36
(22-08-2017, 04:35 PM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: when I inscrewed the base for the respray, there was only the aerial lead held on by a nut underneath.

The aerial itself and the aerial base are two separate parts, but the aerial tends to seize into the base after a few years and won't unscrew.

Not a problem if you replace the base and aerial as one, which as you say is just a single nut underneath.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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#37
(23-08-2017, 01:57 PM)powerandtorque Wrote:
(22-08-2017, 04:35 PM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: when I inscrewed the base for the respray, there was only the aerial lead held on by a nut underneath.

The aerial itself and the aerial base are two separate parts, but the aerial tends to seize into the base after a few years and won't unscrew.

Not a problem if you replace the base and aerial as one, which as you say is just a single nut underneath.

I often unscrew the twig from the base, give it a clean & vaselene then reassemble.
It goes, it stops (as reqd). Makeup
Hate Housework!
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#38
(22-08-2017, 12:28 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: I've just bought that little step down regulator so when it arrives on the slow boat from China I'll do a little guide.

Did you get the step down regulator delivered yet Dee?
190k Moonstone 3dr HDI sold
..on the lookout for a 6/rallye

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#39
Yes, just waiting for a chance to fit it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
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#40
Video 
Well, I'm no sparky so if one more capable than I'm please correct me of add some thoughts. I added a autoleads PC5-90 adapter with a LM317 regulator to my Percy the Peugeot. I though I might add a kind of a guide.

Parts needed: Autoleads PC5-90 aerial adapter, LM317 flexible voltage adjuster and two short pieces of insulated wire. 
Tools needed: small flat head screwdriver, pair of pliers, knife (add solder and iron if wanted a pro finish), multimeter and electrical tape. Stereo keys if you have the head unit in situ. 

   
The Autoleads PC5-90 is a simple thing -it has only one blue wire and the adapter itself. The LM317 is a bit more of a thinker. it has two sides: IN and OUT both sides with 3 screw type connections. underside of it VIN GND on side, VOUT GND on the other side. On the top of the LM317 it has a voltage adjuster in the centre. (come back to it later)

So the actual wire connection:
Cut off the connector from the end blue wire of PC5-90 to have a clean end. Peel off the insulation for 3mm and connect it to the VOUT. Tighten the screw reasonably tight. Now one end the short piece of wire attaches to the GND right next to VOUT. 
Now the VIN side next. The other piece of short wire goes into the GND. At this point you have the LM317 3 wires attached to. One on the GND of the inlet side and two on the outlet side. One on the GND and the blue one to the VOUT. Now the free ends of the two short pieces of cables (both to the GND). Now add some solder if you wanted to this twisted end. Now with great care pry open the big metal collar of the PC5-90 that holds the shielding wires on the coaxial connector.      Now fit the twisted ends into this slot and with the pliers force the collar back to normal.           


Now to the car.

Pull the head unit out from its home and on the electrical connections / speakers connections you will find a blue wire that leads to nowhere. I have a Pioneer unit and it had a label on the cable said remote my old Sony said att. Locate this cable on the back of the head unit and peel off  3mm of the insulation. This wire goes in to the VIN on the LM317. Now make sure all four cable connections are reasonably tight on you LM317.  At this point make sure the pugs aerial is NOT connected to the PC5-90 adapter! As the LM317 is an adjustable voltage regulator we need to make sure the voltage on its output is 7V. Someone on the forum stated he measured the voltage of the original head unit and it was 7V and many complaining that the 12V standard just fried their booster. So aerial not connected use the small flat head screwdriver and turn the adjuster in the middle of the LM317 to fully counterclockwise. No need to force it it's just cheap chineesium plasitc breaks easy. Now connect the aerial lead to the PC5-90 adapter. Turn on ignition to power up the radio. If you have a multimeter great! Use it: adjust the meter to 20V and connect the probes to the VOUT and GND screws. Now with the screwdriver adjust the voltage to 7V Now you're done sir. Just put back the head unit. If you don't have a multimeter quite simply just don't connect it, use the voltage adjuster until you have a great reception. Just be very careful as very minor adjustment on the adjuster makes a big difference!
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