306 D Turbo heater problems

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306 D Turbo heater problems
#1
Looking for some advice on heating not getting very warm
I've recently put 2 lots of Wynns coolant flush fluid in and cleaned out the cooling system
But for some reason I'm only getting luke warm air coming blowing through
Any ideas thanks
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#2
Losing any coolant? Bled properly? Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#3
(09-10-2016, 08:00 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: Losing any coolant? Bled properly? Smile
I've ran it and bled it until fresh coolant has come through
Would you recommend having both bleed screws open at the same time
thanks again
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#4
you need to create a header tank ie pop bottle in the radiator to get the coolant all the way up to the matrix, or blow through the overflow pipe with your hand over the rad cap hole,think there's a guide on here Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#5
Yeah, as above, the filler neck of the the radiator is lower than the highest point in the system (ie the heater matrix). So in order to get coolant all the way to the matrix and push all the air out, you are supposed to get / make a header tank. I usually use an upturned 1L coolant bottle. Cut the bottom off, and use O rings to make sure that you get a water tight seal between the bottle and the filler neck when it is inserted. You also need to plug the overflow hole on the side of the filler neck otherwise it will all pi5h out!. You basically want to fill the system, working your way from the bottom bleed screw up to the one at the matrix level - ie open the one on the rad top until coolant flows out clear of air, then close. Now repeat with the one on the hose from the heated fuel filter. Fill your makeshift header tank to whatever level is required to achieve this.

By the time you get to the heater matrix one, you will need to fill the header tank quite a bit. Again, once coolant runs clear of air, close it off. Now run the car and let it heat up until the cooling fans kick in (keep the header tank fairly full). The engine should take in the coolant in the header tank. Lastly let the car cool. Hopefully all the coolant went in from the header, which you can then remove and just top up the level if required. Remember, it isn't important whether or not you have the hot / cold valve set to hot or cold, as on the 306 the valve adjusts the amount of hot air which is delivered rather than the amount of coolant flow through the matrix - on the 306 the matrix always has maximum coolant flow, one of the reasons it is so important to do all this - the matrix forms part of the required coolant volume for effective cooling of the engine.
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#6
http://www.pugaddicts.co.uk/2012/12/guid...ostat.html

See the second to last picture for reference of this DIY header tank. I've successfully wrapped masking tape around the opening of the bottle until it becomes a snug fit in the radiator filler neck.
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#7
ive also used insulation tape around the bottle cap threads which seems too work well i also had this problem with luke warm heating i fully flushed the cooling system changed the stat bleed the system numerous times still cool in the end changed the matrix and it was like a new car heating really good never had a issue after.I guess some of the matrix tubes was partily blocked alowing only a little hot water too flow through the matrix.
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#8
Yea it's a total lady garden to bleed it properly, and if you don't air will get trapped in the system and can cause you issues later.
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#9
(11-10-2016, 08:37 AM)vincent1 Wrote: ive also used insulation tape around the bottle cap threads which seems too work well i also had this problem with luke warm heating i fully flushed the cooling system changed the stat bleed the system numerous times still cool in the end changed the matrix and it was like a new car heating really good never had a issue after.I guess some of the matrix tubes was partily blocked alowing only a little hot water too flow through the matrix.
Is the matrix easy to change thanks
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#10
(11-10-2016, 04:59 PM)gazsa401 Wrote:
(11-10-2016, 08:37 AM)vincent1 Wrote: ive also used insulation tape around the bottle cap threads which seems too work well i also had this problem with luke warm heating i fully flushed the cooling system changed the stat bleed the system numerous times still cool in the end changed the matrix and it was like a new car heating really good never had a issue after.I guess some of the matrix tubes was partily blocked alowing only a little hot water too flow through the matrix.
Is the matrix easy to change thanks

i wouldn't say easy, took me about a day but i'm a slow worker lol, people that know what they're doing quote 3-4 hours Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#11
yes took me about 6 ish hours there is a guide on the internet to do the swap hopefully someone will post a link too it for you

Edit!! heres one i guide i found
http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread....999&page=1
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#12
im going to try this tomorrow! ive been having a night mare to try and get it to bleed through the matrix properly i even tried having the front end up the slope into the workshop thought it might oh helped but was still a bugger
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#13
Is your heater tap opening all the way?
3 x Peugeot owner.

1996 106.
1996 306 D Turbo S.
1994 Mercedes Benz 320E.
1997 306 GLX.

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#14
(07-11-2016, 08:32 PM)The Phil Billy Wrote: im going to try this tomorrow! ive been having a night mare to try and get it to bleed through the matrix properly i even tried having the front end up the slope into the workshop thought it might oh helped but was still a bugger
I've got mine bled through properly but it's still not blowing hot just luke warm so now I'm clutching at straws and have ordered a new heater resistor
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#15
I went through all the issues your having when trying to sort my first 306 changed thermostat/flushed system etc bleed it loads of times decided to fit a new heater matrix solved the issue straight away wished i did this before wasting time doing the other tests etc my guess is my old matrix was partialy blocked if you change yours you will see how thin the pipes etc are on it so do block easily.
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#16
(12-12-2016, 08:48 PM)vincent1 Wrote: I went through all the issues your having when trying to sort my first 306 changed thermostat/flushed system etc bleed it loads of times decided to fit a new heater matrix solved the issue straight away wished i did this before wasting time doing the other tests etc my guess is my old matrix was partialy blocked if you change yours you will see how thin the pipes etc are on it so do block easily.
Just want to add something more for advice really
I changed my radiator last year plus fitted a new cam belt water pump and thermostat
My heater worked great before I changed all those things but since then I just can't get the heater to blow hot (just luke warm)
So that's why I'm trying the heater resistor or would you still recommend the matrix as well thanks
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#17
(12-12-2016, 08:56 PM)gazsa401 Wrote:
(12-12-2016, 08:48 PM)vincent1 Wrote: I went through all the issues your having when trying to sort my first 306 changed thermostat/flushed system etc bleed it loads of times decided to fit a new heater matrix solved the issue straight away wished i did this before wasting time doing the other tests etc my guess is my old matrix was partialy blocked if you change yours you will see how thin the pipes etc are on it so do block easily.
Just want to add something more for advice really
I changed my radiator last year plus fitted a new cam belt water pump and thermostat
My heater worked great before I changed all those things but since then I just can't get the heater to blow hot (just luke warm)
So that's why I'm trying the heater resistor or would you still recommend the matrix as well thanks

sounds like you haven't bled the system properly mate Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#18
get the water level nice and high befor you start bleeding Wink

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#19
(13-12-2016, 09:35 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote:
(12-12-2016, 08:56 PM)gazsa401 Wrote:
(12-12-2016, 08:48 PM)vincent1 Wrote: I went through all the issues your having when trying to sort my first 306 changed thermostat/flushed system etc bleed it loads of times decided to fit a new heater matrix solved the issue straight away wished i did this before wasting time doing the other tests etc my guess is my old matrix was partialy blocked if you change yours you will see how thin the pipes etc are on it so do block easily.
Just want to add something more for advice really
I changed my radiator last year plus fitted a new cam belt water pump and thermostat
My heater worked great before I changed all those things but since then I just can't get the heater to blow hot (just luke warm)
So that's why I'm trying the heater resistor or would you still recommend the matrix as well thanks

sounds like you haven't bled the system properly mate Smile


Oh ok I've had it where I've run pure water through and there's no air bubbles coming out and the waters very hot then put antifreeze in and ran until the antifreeze comes out the bleed screws again with no air bubbles
I've made a header tank like you've shown in the picture
So the coolant is higher than the bleed screws
Do you have to have both bleed screws open at the same time because that's how I've been doing it ?
Any further advice would be appreciated thanks
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#20
one bleed screw screw at a time, radiator, thermostat then heater matrix, get the water level above the highest bleed point and make sure the thermostat has opened, it swallows about another litre when it does Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#21
Sorry i missed this bit where you said this

Just want to add something more for advice really
I changed my radiator last year plus fitted a new cam belt water pump and thermostat
My heater worked great before I changed all those things but since then I just can't get the heater to blow hot (just luke warm)
So that's why I'm trying the heater resistor or would you still recommend the matrix as well thanks

so it does still sound like a airlock somewhere all you can do is just keep trying to bleed it whats the temperature gauge go up to in the car? was it the correct temp new thermostat you fitted?
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#22
(13-12-2016, 05:06 PM)vincent1 Wrote: Soory i missed this bit where you said this

Just want to add something more for advice really
I changed my radiator last year plus fitted a new cam belt water pump and thermostat
My heater worked great before I changed all those things but since then I just can't get the heater to blow hot (just luke warm)
So that's why I'm trying the heater resistor or would you still recommend the matrix as well thanks

so it does still sound like a airlock somewhere all you can do is just keep trying to bleed it whats the temperature gauge go up to in the car? was it the correct temp new thermostat you fitted?
I forgot about the radiator bleed screw doh!!!!
I also lost the bleed screw near the fuel pump it fell into the bell housing (school boy error) it's took me ages to buy a replacement screw
The temperature gauge went up to over 90 then the fan kicked in and it settled back down to running temperature
I'll try again tomorrow to sort it and let you know
Again thanks for your help and others on here
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