GTi6 not starting after heater matrix bypass

[friar241]

Hi Guys

Got a weird one here, bypassed the heater matrix as it dumped its load in the footwell

I have cut the heater matrix pipes and looped it back on itself as recommended.

Now the car cranks but will not fire up, which is really confusing me, only been since the heater matrix pipe pipe has been done. Now I havent touched any wires, sensors or anything. So in need of some help please

Thanks,
Luke

[Niall]

Sounds like you may have knocked something.
Behind the battery is the fuel relay. Check that's plugged in well as this could cause non starting!

[friar241]

Sounds like you may have knocked something.
Behind the battery is the fuel relay. Check that's plugged in well as this could cause non starting!

I hadn't thought of that, good call as I did have the grips down behind the battery trying to undo those bloody squeezy clips, lol. When I get home at 5.30 I'll give it a check.

Thanks bud

[mark_airey]

I know sod all about petrols but personally I would also check the silly inertia switch thingy too incase that isn't playing ball......

[friar241]

I got so annoyed with it raining all day as well was sick of being piss wet through.

Just my luck of late as I also decided to lose the top bloody thermostat bolt so need to look for that too, lol

[Ruan]

Is the fuel pump priming?

[Atterz]

Could well be the crank sensor as well, brown plug on top of the gearbox. Will randomly go without warning.

[Daniel306]

im sure its better to block off the pipes than join them together?

[mark_airey]

im sure its better to block off the pipes than join them together?

Yep, so did I, apparently if you join them you are pretty much making a bypass loop as its easier to go through the linked pipes than through the head..........sure that is what darren said last time I saw a thread on this subject!

[friar241]

Ruan: Theres a click so I would guess so

Atterz - I'll check that as working there I may have knocked it lose or something

Daniel/Airey - Whats the best way to block the pipes off then? And what is the gain through doing this and not looping it back on itself?

Sorry to sound dumb guys, been out the game for a bit now, lol

Luke

[Connor]

Well by the sounds of it, if you don't block it then the head won't be getting as much flow, therefore wont be getting as much cooling. Best bet is to just stick some bolts in and jubilee clip them in

[mark_airey]

Well by the sounds of it, if you don't block it then the head won't be getting as much flow, therefore wont be getting as much cooling. Best bet is to just stick some bolts in and jubilee clip them in

^^ What he said

[friar241]

Thanks for the suggestions guys much appreciated.

I managed to get the car to start earlier seems like it might just be down to the air in there making it slightly more difficult to start. Just need to bleed the system now but tonight have literally had minutes to look at it

[mark_airey]

At least your getting there, hope you get it sorted out

[Ruan]

Click isn't enough, check for a buzzing whining noise when you first turn on the ignition from the rear seat area, which then stops after a few seconds...

[friar241]

I will lift the seat and double check this tonight as well

Thanks for the help Ruan

Luke

[friar241]

Ok car is starting now but there is an absolute shit load of air in the system.

I cannot bleed it from the usual highest place of by the heater matrix as these pipes arent being used, so been using the bleed point on the thermostat. Sadly no luck though as it is just air and never any fluids coming out.

I have checked the coolant all nice and topped up just wondering where I can get it bled to stop the heat increasing at an alarming rate and bleed the system fully.

Thanks guys,
Luke

[friar241]

Any offerings of help please?

Thanks
Luke

[Matt]

Ok car is starting now but there is an absolute shit load of air in the system.

I cannot bleed it from the usual highest place of by the heater matrix as these pipes arent being used, so been using the bleed point on the thermostat. Sadly no luck though as it is just air and never any fluids coming out.

I have checked the coolant all nice and topped up just wondering where I can get it bled to stop the heat increasing at an alarming rate and bleed the system fully.

Thanks guys,
Luke

Correct me if I'm wrong but when bleeding the system you are getting the air out of the system so if you are bleeding it from the thermostat and all that's coming out is air surley you need to keep doing it till some fluid comes out then no? And If the fluid isn't coming through then stick more fluid in

[mark_airey]

Correct me if I'm wrong but when bleeding the system you are getting the air out of the system so if you are bleeding it from the thermostat and all that's coming out is air surley you need to keep doing it till some fluid comes out then no? And If the fluid isn't coming through then stick more fluid in

^^ this, if there is still air coming out then it's not fully bled through is it?!

[Joe]

and and and! wont it make it harder to bleed having the matrix flowing freely? as then the coolant has to make the choice of the fre flowing pipes, or the twisty castings in the engine?

[mark_airey]

and and and! wont it make it harder to bleed having the matrix flowing freely? as then the coolant has to make the choice of the fre flowing pipes, or the twisty castings in the engine?

Read the thread, its blocked off, not linked anymore..............

[friar241]

I have been bleeding it for about 2 hours over the weekend. I would have thought after this amount of time it would have bled fully. I get little spits now and again but nothing other than that.

Bit frustrating to be honest but more fluids I will has enough anyway but more cant hurt, lol

Thanks guys

[Joe]

and and and! wont it make it harder to bleed having the matrix flowing freely? as then the coolant has to make the choice of the fre flowing pipes, or the twisty castings in the engine?

Read the thread, its blocked off, not linked anymore..............

it didnt say if he had or not :/ sorry

[Matt]

I have been bleeding it for about 2 hours over the weekend. I would have thought after this amount of time it would have bled fully. I get little spits now and again but nothing other than that.

Bit frustrating to be honest but more fluids I will has enough anyway but more cant hurt, lol

Thanks guys

Air leak somewhere? If that much air is going in then I would presume that it's got a leak somewhere. Is the bi pass properly sealed? Air could be coming in from there?

[Joe]

that was gonna be my next suggestion..... do the 6's have little bleed nipples like the dturbo's? mine didnt have any as i bought it spares or repairs after it had frozen over but yanooo........ so i replaced all of mine with m6 bolts, no need for them bolts just bleed it up the old fashion way......

[friar241]

Matt - Bypass is sealed propperly ye.

Didnt get chance to look at it last night as it was pissing it down a right good un

Joe - Bleeding points on 6 are heater matrix, thermostat and front on radiator I dont know of any others

[Dan!]

Sounds like the same problem me and Jake had when trying to bleed his dturbo the other week.

Open the bleed points, remove the rad cap/expansion tank cap, then put your hand over the hole where the cap goes and blow down the little pipe that should be coming off the expansion tank. Blow hard a few times and the system should 'burble', take in some of the water and then you need to top it up again, then just repeat, blow, top up, blow, top up, until water starts coming out of both bleed points, then tighten them up!

[silverzx]

blow, blow, until starts coming out!

[Ruan]

Yeah, typical heater matrix bypass problem...

You CAN'T bypass a heater matrix... They're surprisingly well balanced to make sure that the water can't NOT pass through there on idle, cooking the head until the thermostat opens, and is restrictive enough so that it makes sure that when the thermostat is open, it isn't easier for the water pump to just shove it all through the heater matrix... The bypass ends up allowing it all to pass through the heater matrix, not cooling the engine right...